kitsune

[kitsune]

I’ve been using Notepad 🙂

but IMHO there are lots of easier products to use, its just how I learned to do them way back when … 🙂

[kitsune]

Last time I think people tried getting there around 12:30 and hung around until after 5, seemed to work well, anyone got any other suggestions?

[kitsune]

Depends 🙂 (Okey I love giving non answers)

If your not going to be providing more than 5.5V from your batteries this should do the trick in a general sense, performance will vary depending on exactly what capacitors you use, Low ESR Caps give better performance, and you want to use a capacitor with the lowest voltage rating that is higher than you batteries kick out. given that the cap you’ve pointed out from Jaycar does not mention low esr and is designed to provide small amounts of power for a long period of time, I think you will get better performance from other capacitors, as for how many f,uf or pf you should use it varies to small and you’ll be getting less “punch” than you could get from a capacitor with more capacity, too big and your car will lose out on performance while the cap charges, the bigger the longer the charging time.

Capacitors don’t actually provide extra power, what they do is store some of the power from your battery and when your car is sucking more power than the battery can provide then the car also sucks some of the stored power from the capacitor, (if the capacitor wasn’t there the car would not accelerate so fast because it would be limited to the peak output of the battery, the capacitor increases the peak output of the battery at the cost of the sustained output of the battery.)

Hope this explanation makes sense.

I’ve had a hard time finding good caps with a voltage rating below 10V at Jaycar, then one day I saw that computer motherboards use 6.3V Caps 🙂
Guess who nicks them of the dead motherboards at my work (Working in a computer store has its perks).

Visit your local computer store, be nice, see if they can put aside some dead motherboards for you 🙂 cheap and at 6.3V probably better than a 5.5V if you’re seriously charging your batteries.

(Yeah I know NiMH say 1.2V but trust me when you charg them they can hold more than that 🙂

So back to the question yeah sort of but there are probably other caps that will do the job better, (If someone knows something about these 5.5V caps that I don’t please let me know, but IMHO Low ESR 6.3V caps may be a better chioce)

(And if you’re using 7.2V forget the 6.3s and go to the 10V ones 🙂

[kitsune]

Okey I’m going blind 🙂

The work I did on my first Race tin was based on the red mini in “You’re under arrest”

[kitsune]

I’m very dissapointed, no one mentioned Initial D.

[kitsune]

1 order, 1 week, stuffed ou, fixed promptly and easily, (and I’m up I set of crystals for my Iwaver) would use again. put the postage does cost a bomb.

[kitsune]

It is a lobseter – same color ya know 🙂

[kitsune]

What 0 – 100 in 10.4 minutes not fast enough 😉

[kitsune]

Woot I got me a funky title,

Kevsta, occasionally the add banner in the top right of the screen mentions subscribing, try klicking on that 🙂

[kitsune]

Cool, thanks again, … time for me to get a funky title 😉

[kitsune]

Great 🙂

Now 1 thing that is still unclear to me,

The costs, are they once off, yearly, monthly?
(subscriber seems to indicate its a regular cost, donor seems to imply a once off thing)

if they are once off, if you pay more then once do the ammounts add to each other for working out what you are supporter/subscriber/donor or does it just go off the highest ammount?

thanks, and thanks for the quick responses 🙂

[kitsune]

Does this mean that we might lose those server timeouts? I’ve been looking for info on how to contribute to the site, and havn’t easily found anything, (I’m doing a search at the mo, but it’s so slow 😉 convinince is a big factor for me, if this was just another rc forum I could be convinced to chip in if it was easy to do, (eg a paypal button on the members page, or at the top/bottom of each page etc) but I wouldn’t go looking, the option would have to be pretty much presented to me on a silver tray.
AusMicro however I feel is better than the typical rc forum, and I’ve met some great people and learned some really useful stuff through it, so I decided I’d like to chip in, unfortunatelu after a bit of looking I still havent found anything apart from possibly getting an alloy motor mount 🙂 btw the search is still going. If you could tell me where to look, or what to do I’d apreciate it, and for those who need the donate/subscribe/ect button put right under the mouse (and possibly the mouse clicked for them) could you make an easy way to contibute to the site and make it obvious? If there is a obvious way and I havn’t noticed, call me Captain Oblivious … and please point me to it (I’ll click the mouse myself if you like 😉

still searching 😉

[kitsune]

Yeah merc I do, tho part of me wishes that I could do a fet mod to get the old girl moving a little quicker 🙂

[kitsune]

Quote:

ny thing can be fet modded otherwise it would never have been able to drive in the first place

😀 Are you telling me I can fet mod my ’75 volvo 😀 Awesome – if there was ever a car that could use a performance boost that’s the one to do it to.

Imaging a nelly for it, now there’s a challenge for ph2t LOL:smiley2:

[kitsune]

I am Kitsune of Borg, err umm Aus,
Resistance is futile,
You will have a cold one.
(and a nelly too, just so this isn’t too off topic 😉

[kitsune]

Aaron – thanks,

How much would you want for the sample if it’s on offer?
how adjustable is the space for the pinion?
any other concerns about it?
and roughly how much for a GPM or equivelent.

nobody expects the spanish inquisition 😉

[kitsune]

For anyone who’s a little confused here’s a short sampler of some of the uses, there are many more, it’s all about the inflection, as betty.k says hundreds of years, after all we havn’t had a civil war or a war of independence, or even a war with an enemy country, we just get invited to help out, cos we’re good mates 😉 – that leaves us with a lot of time to perfect the Queen’s english, (australianise it 😉

I hope you enjoy them Mate

What non aussies think the word mate means …
Mate – what a nerd says when they win agame of chess
Mate – Non aussie for – the act of procreation or the one you perform this act with

Some of the real uses of the word mate (ie. aussie versions)
Mate – Friend
Mate – Foe
Mate – Complete stranger
Mate – (said to any of the above) – Agreement
Mate – (said to any of the above) – Disagreement
Mate – (said to any of the above) – You’re a genius
Mate – (said to any of the above) – You’re a dipstick
Mate – (said to any of the above) – Could you please pass me the shifting spanner over there, no not that one the one to the left
Mate – (said to any of the above) – Thanks

[kitsune]

Left it just a little too late,
but on a similar note I’ve had a quick look and I can’t find a dedicated ausmicro shop thingie on the forum, is there one?
I’d be interested in supporing the forum through purchasing from them provided the pricing isn’t unreasonable, but I can’t justify buying bearings and nuts I dont need at the moment, (tho I am looking for a motor mount 😉

[kitsune]

Kitsune mega rant (ok it went longer than I’d planned)
or “Can I fill a whole page on the forum with just text” 😉

Most of this is in response to charlies post so if your eyes start glazing over feel free to skip it, sorry.

Charlie – Glad it was useful

That 10v/6v figure is just what the black box is rated to, it DOES NOT (v. important 🙂 tell you what the entire board can take …

Jshwaa and ph2ts solutions reduce the voltage from the batteries to 5v, but another important feature is they also boost the outputs from the pcb (max 5v if using the 5v reg) up to the voltage of the battery 16v if we quote your post. this is important as the fets work better at these voltages (and may not switch if fed the incorrect ones).

My viewpoint is we know that iwavers/minizs can take upto 6V (otherwise you’d kill them if you used alkalines) and there seems to be no noticble performance benefit in providing extra voltage to any of the other components other than the motor so play it safe and run the pcb at what it’s rated.

Jshwaa and ph2t have spent a lot of time working on systems that allow us to push more to the motor, so lets give them credit and take advantage of their knowledge.

(or more cynically why kill our stuff experimenting when someone more knowledgeable can kill their stuff instead 😉 tho hopefully they will actually produce something that works and not kill anything at all).

That leaves 2 ways to take advantage of the knowledge, By the products of their tinkering, as you have chosen to do – good choice IMHO – unless you want to do it for the knowledge or to quite a few cars buying a developed and tested product is the way to go, or you can do as I’m slowly doing tinker yourself, risk destroying your own stuff as you learn and grab what ideas you can from the pioneers. I wouldn’t suggest this course for you at the moment, you need to learn a lot more about electroincs to make the risks worthwhile (IMHO) The only reason I can understand what ph2t says when he gets into the techincal side is because I got myself up to speed on the race-tins, now I instead of saying Huh? I can say ahhh, I understand, why didn’t I think of that, (because he’s still electronicly) miles ahead of me 🙂

(long winded arn’t I 😉

If you want a fast car or two and don’t want to waste money killing your stuff with failed experiments buy a nelly.

If you don’t care about having the fastest car (coz by the time you build a nelly 1.3 ph2t will probably have developed something faster anyways :), and you are willing to kill a few iwavers/minizs/fets etc (which can add up in cost pretty quick) but want to learn about electronics build your own if you can, BUT start of small with cheap stuff, grab some cheap Race-Tins, upgrade the transistors in them, do a few other mods, safe in the knowledge that if you stuff up you havn’t killed anything expensive, then slowly go on from there, but it will take time and money.

to recap if you want a fast car and don’t want to waste money buy a nelly, if you want to learn about electronics instead start with something simpler and build yourself up to the point where you can make your own, (and if it hasn’t cost you 4 times what a nelly does in parts, equipment, and dead cars I’ll gladly take my hat off to you, I know I’ve spent a lot more (and had a great time doing it) and I still havn’t built a working nelly.

As for theories posting them is not a bad thing, provided that you make everyone aware it’s a theory and not a tested fact, and you put some thought and ground work into the theory (it also helps to show that ground work) because if you, I or anyone else starts sprouting poorly thought out theories (just coz I said we could) ph2t and everyone else is gonna slap that person down – and me for suggesting that they post those theories.

Red cars go faster

I have a theory that hooking 12v to an Iwaver will make it go fast.

I have worked out a circuit to allow 12v to go to the motor without killing the Iwaver, I think it will work (and I know how all the components I’m using work) can anyone see any probs?
(hopefully but probably not

End of my mega rant 🙂

Edit: 151 posts in this thread …WOW that more than twice my post count

Edited by – kitsune on 25 August 2004 14:54:02

[kitsune]

If you want to put extra batteries on without having probs you’d probably want to limit the voltage running to the reciever + steering, Iwavers in particular can react badly steering wise to too much voltage, and if you connect enough juice you can damage the board itself, the deluxe variants (from what i understand) run 5v to the iwaver/miniz pcb and boost the signals to the fets so they still work properly at the higher voltages. You don’t have to have a deluxe to run extra batteries but it seems to be the best way, and the fets seem to work better with the extra voltage.

ph2t will probably correct me if i’m wrong but I think that one of the reasons he isn’t using heat sinks is because he does not need them, by using low on resistance fets more power goes through when they are on, leaving less waste power to heat up the fet 🙂 cool fets = no need for a heat sink, or its extra weight and bulk. I’ts a great little side efect of geting as much of the power to where its needed as possible.

Hope this helps 🙂

[kitsune]

charlie – if your location’s right it’ll cost you more to come and get it than to but it from ph2t, also I think that 1.3 will simply be an improved 1.2 (better fets i’m guessing) so – please correct me if i’m wrong ph2t – it wont have the power regulation features of the nelly 1.2 deluxe, so hook up too many batteries and something will go bang, if i’m wrong and its samller than the 1.2 and performs like an enhanced deluxe I think this would be the biggest advancement to nelly (not including deluxe) since she came out.

If you want a 1.3 deluxe – assuming ph2t makes em, you had better convince ph2t that you’re worth of one, and start saving – ph2t once stated he wouldn’t sell the 1.2 deluxe, so it would probably take some serious respect and cash to get him t part with something like a 1.3 deluxe, I’d suggest a lot more listening and paying attention and a lot less comments that may be interpreted in a bad light, do some more reasearch before posting questions and try to contribute something useful of your own rather than just repeating what others have said.

that said he still might not part with a 1.3 deluxe, and you’ll have to look at making your on voltage and signal regulator, but he has provided all the info needed to do it.

Most of what i’ve said is based on some assumptions about ph2t and nelly, I could well be wrong, but try to behave in a way worthy of respect when you can and be quiet and listen when you cant, it will serve you well.

[kitsune]

Hmmm I’ve gotta try 😀

It will also probably COST less….:smiley2:infact ph2t will probably just give me one …

nope?

Ahhh well it if got charlie’s price jacked up I figured it was worth a try.
😀

[kitsune]

Have you thought of adding metal bumper bars to the front, they might extend the life of the shell, apart from my 1:10 shell your shell seemed to get most of the damage.

[kitsune]

Nelly Deluxe will limit the power to the board to 5v I belive so no twitch on an Iwaver 🙂 (well beyound what you get from the cheapo components you would normally get 🙂 ND’s an awesome concept, I’d thought of doing something similar on the race tins in the past but never could work out a way to get it to work properly, I was begining to look into opto couples in the end – but ph2ts don it for the mini-z and better than I’d have ever been able too.

[kitsune]

Actually only 28 ON the mini-z ;p

I think Nelly Deluxe would have some issues handling that too, just (what’s the rated max about 20v?)

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