kitsune
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
The pits I drilled for the kingpins were too shallow, amazingly I didn’t loose any parts, 🙂
That leaves skill in winding selection of wire diamater and number of turns (and possibly parallel winding), balancing the armature, selecting parts, breaking in technique and a couple of other factors I’m sure I’ve forgotten about as the only deciding factors, If I was entering I’d consider other areas where I can get performance gains such a possibly hand crafting brushes from 1:10 motors, placing them to advance/retard timing and so on … IMHO a clever “scam” to get a free motor, but the pay off for the winner for the cost of a motor and postage is pretty sweet, an independent (hopefully) review endorsing your product, bragging rights, a nelly, and a line on customers desperate to get the fastest motor + turbo combo out there from ph2t and yourself … as for the other entrants, they wind up down on some time and the postage costs (BTW if it hasn’t been suggested how about doing a group mail out to reduce costs? It might make the idea more paletable) on the up side they have an idea of how their skills compare and they may be able to improve their motor crafting skills with that feed back, and if someone comes up with a revolutionary change (IE a non PD that will perform better) then everyone may benefit.
so if you feel that’s a worthwhile trade off it’s a scam with no losers 🙂 (If you don’t dont enter 🙂
I’ll bring them, but most of the good ones are being worked on, and the Iwavers seem to be faster out of the box.
I spose that means I’ll have to start doing some work on my cars, – havn’t done anything since the last meet except patch the TL01 (the shell’s still stuffed, but now I know to bring a few extras 🙂
I agree they are there to use (and abuse 😉
Awesone shell tho, look at it sideways and it’d crack 1/2 way to the windshield.
The acid test is would I do it again … ABSOLUTELY!
Sides I was the worst offender of the whole lot 🙂
The costs of loaning out your TL01 to the guys at ausmicro …
Broken shell = 1 roll of gaffer tape
Missing wheel nut + broken axel = free spare from a friend
The look on ph2t’s face as the front wheel goes rolling off the end of the straight = priceless(: ph2t I know you felt bad about the wheel, but I thought you should know it’s all fixed and didn’t cost me a cent 🙂
Try a big-ass magnet 🙂
Won’t work on all parts but I find it handy on occasion, enough so that I’m considering making a rare-earth magnet “broom” 🙂I’d stick to 4.8v 5xAAA NiMH = thrashing servo on the Iwaver as those who went to templestowe saw, If 4.8v works why push more through the pcb?
No one has asked the obvious question 😉 …
So ph2t when are you putting the second Li-Poly in there 🙂if it’s vibrating the screws out try some other motors your armature may be unbalanced causing excesive vibration (and also being inefficient)
Can’t really compare them, the 900’s went straight into the aluminum chassis as a 5 pack, I don’t expect there to be much difference, 12.5% more than their 800mAh ones would translate to a little over 1 minute for every 10 minutes you’re already getting. But They might be better than I think – (eg their dischrarge rate could be better, so more top speed for the car, but I really don’t know, havn’t done any real tests, (running them in the same car on a dyno against 800mAh would be interesting (both in terms of initial top speed, and other figures such as runtime down to a set speed eg 10kph.) I dont have a dyno tho 🙁 If anyone knows of a cheap one please let me know.)
Brilliant 🙂
The prob I had with my plans for a 4.8/7.2v system on the race tins had the same “both fets are always on” issue, unlike you however, I had no idea how to solve it and shelved it.
Brilliant 🙂
The prob I had with my plans for a 4.8/7.2v system on the race tins had the same “both fets are always on” issue, unlike you however, I had no idea how to solve it and shelved it.
With the 6609’s try resting them on a metal block to draw some of the heat away when soldering, it might make things easier.
good luck with the redesign – care to go into more detail of what went wrong?
With the 6609’s try resting them on a metal block to draw some of the heat away when soldering, it might make things easier.
good luck with the redesign – care to go into more detail of what went wrong?
Both front wheels gone before 1/2 a lap completed – okey my chassis needs some work
Both front wheels gone before 1/2 a lap completed – okey my chassis needs some work
Funny thing is most of the damage is hidden by a skillful repair job using gaffer tape (Thanks leonli17 🙂 (The underside of the bonnet was almost completely covered with gaffer tape by the end of the day.
My aluminium chassis lsot it’s front wheels twice during the day so I need to make some improvements
and speed wise it topped out at 17kph on the speed checker so it neds some work in the speed department, (It was sad watching it off the line in the great race – the only reason you’d find it on the track at the mo is as a pace car – but next time it’ll be better, halfway around the track and it would only turn left, a little while later it would only go straight ahed, when I went down to investigate the reason was obvious – no front wheels will do that to a car, so not even 1 lap completed. But as a learning experience it was a great day.I’ll be happy to take the nelly 1.1 mosfets at this point, My Aluminum chassis is ready for a test run, but with an I waver motor and stock mosfets it probably wont be very impressive.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
Edit – inserting pictures from the meet
Edited by – kitsune on 01 August 2004 20:03:06
Edited by – kitsune on 01 August 2004 20:08:19
I should be there (torn something in my arm so no abseiling)
ph2t – if you’re interested in selling some of the mosfets you use in nelly could you please bring some with you. thanks.
Edit – typo fix
Edited by – kitsune on 31 July 2004 12:58:23
Still no pics, but the front upper deck is done and so are the mounting points for the h-plate. I need to redo the holes for the kingpins as I used the same spaceing as the servo arm – pity that I didn’t look at the blocks that the wheels are attached to, to kingpins need to be closer together, (I was wondering if I had miscalculated the width of the design until i realised what I’d done)
But at the mo the basic chassis prototype is done, I’ve learnt a few things and the next version will incorporate what I’ve learnt.
Once I’ve got some pics I’ll post them.
Still no pics, but the front upper deck is done and so are the mounting points for the h-plate. I need to redo the holes for the kingpins as I used the same spaceing as the servo arm – pity that I didn’t look at the blocks that the wheels are attached to, to kingpins need to be closer together, (I was wondering if I had miscalculated the width of the design until i realised what I’d done)
But at the mo the basic chassis prototype is done, I’ve learnt a few things and the next version will incorporate what I’ve learnt.
Once I’ve got some pics I’ll post them.
My read of it was $5 for a 1m x 2m x 2mm mat or $7.5 for a 1m x 2m x 3mm mat. if that’s right to do a 6m x 8m track in 2mm would be 24 x $5 = $120
in 3mm foam $180. Right?My read of it was $5 for a 1m x 2m x 2mm mat or $7.5 for a 1m x 2m x 3mm mat. if that’s right to do a 6m x 8m track in 2mm would be 24 x $5 = $120
in 3mm foam $180. Right?Either cut another hole or extend the wires 🙂
Not so muct a problem as a minor inconvinience.Either cut another hole or extend the wires 🙂
Not so muct a problem as a minor inconvinience. -
AuthorPosts