micro_Amps
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You have frie one of the surface mount transistors. You might hae trouble ordering repalcements too. It sounde like the Tamiya motors drew too much current and fried one of the transistors in the “left forward circuit”
Hmmm, now its going to get complicated for you.
You need to identify the blown transistor, remove it and replce it, after first identifying what type it is and making sure you can get an equivilent replacement.
Godluck.
uALooks like the pic link has stopped working.
:)uATry RS Components.
Not sure of the URL, but they have branches in the capital cities and source their stock from all over the world.
:)uAlol, looks cool.
Thats becoming quite a rover.
:)uA:blush:
I have some of those white 3.8s too.
The black Lxxs are definitely between 3.0 and 3.5, they are reasonably quick motors.
The purples are 3.5s too.
:)uAI like the idea of the matched controller, nice touch.
:)uAAhhh, my fave shell too.
Very nicely done.
:)uABetty, the reply to that is as long as Trash’s first post above.
I’ll just say the the steerng coils only turn on and off, they dont reverse in polarity like the motor circuit does.
:)uAOr blowing up letter boxes with recipes found on the internet. (Damn neighbours kids)
Next time I’m calling the bomb squad 😀
:)uAWhile we are there we might go into some power factor correction capacitor calculations, perhaps fiddle with the likes of Faraday, Lenz and Maxwell, and then stop for a dose of calculus or thermodynamics.
Just kidding, 😀
Good idea.
:)uAYep, spot on ph2t. Even if you reversed the motor wires I think you would find the same things happening, although I havent tried it.
The circuit is exactly the same for forward and reverse, so there is no electrical difference.
If you lubricate the gears and the rear axel you will find the difference between forward and reverse reduces to almost nothing.
:)uAQuote:ph2t, the current actually flows from + to -…….hehehe….He may know this, I’m sure it was mentioned in his EE degree
Quote:Electricity is just like water, etc, etc….Trash, you and I must have had similar training, I remember this being the first way that I was taught to understand electron flow, all those years ago.
Yeah, BK, I picked you as a bloke, but I was just wondering where it came from. Still DJing?
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 10 November 2003 23:45:47
Pity you need to register on that site just to look at the pictures.
uAGood stuff BK. (Where does the user name come from? ) Well done on your project success.
How fast does this little tractor thing travel anyway.?
:)uABigger batteries = more weight, which may alter the center of gravity (the balance point of the plane).
I have changed the cells and the motors in my other air surfer but not the Sky Wolf, yet.
As soon as I et the fan jet (2 or 3 days) I will experiment with other battery combinations.
For now I’m sticking with the original. I peak charge my battery packs so they last a while.
:)uAYep, that was originally unconnected and it stays that way.
:)uAIt depends which one changes when you push forward, do the motor wires go positive or negative when you turn the motors on?
:)uAAhh, I see. The name similarity made me think it might be related.
:)uAYes you are right about the prices, this one is top of the line (very thin bandwidth and large range) for high quality (high $$$) micro r/c planes.
I know a few people that make their own propo micro r/c gear, same size as a BCG pcb for 2 channel propo and an ESC. Its really good stuff.
:)uAYeah, it probably does. The Minis that they sell are the same and they light up when they run.
So I would expect that to be correct.
:)uAHang on a sec, back up a minute……
when you run these kinds of r/c toys on a power pack or transformer the range increases heaps.
This seems to be because the wires that are supplying the power become like an extra aerial and assists in extending the range.
If you are working on this tank idea, stay running on batteries, that will be your best bet to simulate the desired result.If you want to do dual power supplies, just connect the 4 cells together and take a wire from the middle of the pack (+3v) and run it to the Rx pcb. The wire form the end of the pack (+6v) goes to the motors. Both cicruits are connected to the same negative. What will probably happen (you will have to check this) is that when a motor switches on the terminal on the pcb will go LOW and conduct to run that motor. If the transistor is able to conduct the motor current you will get movement.
If the transistor doesnt go LOW for ON, then you will have to work out another way to run the motors, or change the motors.:)uA
Hehehe, that cracks me up. Has this got anything to do with BitCharg-Oz as well.:smiley2:
Its going to be slim pickings on that forum for a while I expect.
Hey wheres the techo section???
:)uAThis is the first one that I have heard of that has had any problems at all.
Check the gears are free and there isnt anything tangled up in the axel (a hair for example).
Are you sure your controller is working correctly, can you prove that forward and backward are working by controlling another car with it. Sometimes this looks like a car problem but is actually a controller problem.
Try all this and let me know.
:)uAMB, here is a connections pic from the tech gallery on Ausmicro.
A little large I know, but it aids the visually impaired :smiley2:
Single speed and 2 speed have the same connections.:)uA
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