micro_Amps
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Yeah, but I’m saving all the details for when the Aus-nano site starts up.
BTW, I’m looking for a new avatar, do you have a pic of what happens to the bunny after the fork went in?Geeez…I turn my back for a few minutes and look what happens.
Well done mate, treat ’em mean, keep ’em keen.
uAWell, I was away for 3 days while moving house, 3 DAYS!!!, and look what happens, some loser hacker wannabe tests his L plates here. The last I saw of this site was early morning Friday 9 June, 4am, the site was hacked around 2 hours earlier.
Doesnt look like a lot of damage has been done, with the exception of a few feathers being ruffled and the guy potentially getting himself into trouble.
I d say its another excellent job done by Aaron to get and keep the whole lot up and running.
Pity, but I guess it goes to show you can’t let your guard down on net security.
Well done Aaron
Thats $1.99 more than I’d cough up if it was me,
Todays word for the day is PHILANTHROPIST, brought to you by BettyK, besides, Antarctica is closer than Canada anyway, so presumably postage would cost less but might take longer.
(When I said earlier it was about $5 to receive them, that was for chassis only, in a padded envelope, and return post was about the same.)
I emailed him about one of his other auctions and asked the postage price, sure enough he said $95 was the best he could do. This guy has no idea. I get the feeling he is quoting UPS or Fedex or some other kind of international courier, or if he is using a net based postage calculator he has got his weight ordimensions massively wrong.
Maybe you could go to a Canadian postage calulator site (if there is one?) and show him that it shouldnt be so expensive.
Be careful buying these early ZZ SEs, they are probably the ones that had all the steering problems.
uA
I’ve received SEs from Canada for mods in the past, postage was about $5 each for standard air mail(Canadian $ is very close to ours right now) dont play his game, report him to ebay and tell him to stick it. Ebay gives you 3 non-payer ‘strikes’ before it effects your account, may as well use them in twits like this.
(So whats going on with the page layout on this thread anyway???)
Yep, I have to agree, the swallow is excellent, without all the needless bells and whistles or the expense that goes with that.
The advanced model charges at up to 5A and is cheaper than the first model.
http://www.globalrcmodels.com/rc_model_chargers/swallow_battery_charger.htm
uA
Great stuff Ph2t, were do you source those cells from?
Was that the 320k variety or the high tech double sided ones at 640? :smiley2:
i have a feeling my previous cheapy charger had alot to do with the state of my batts…….
I think you have summed it up right there BK, you didnt mention that you had previously been charging them with a cheapy charger, only that they were your newest
Grab some new ones and see how they handle.Hmmm, sure you arent charging them on a NiCd setting or something like that?
How much did they discharge before they went onto charge?
I have seen batteries charge for ages without peaking, but they were charging at 5% of 1C which was too low to get a decent peak.
Try seperate discharge and charge cycles and see how they go, or try discharging at max (500mA on a swallow) and charge at 1C but keep an eye on them in case they fail. It should take about 2.5 to 3 hours all up.
I have been using some AA and AAA Powertechs (from Jaycar)in my RC stuff and digicam for about a year now and I am still getting 95 to 110% of original capacity, and they get cycled with swallow charger every charge.
Keep trying your cells and let us know how they go.Your batteries arent ‘peaking’ properly any more BK, thats the good thing with having a charger like a Swallow, you can see whats going on with them.
Time to get some newies.Whos a smart cookie then :smiley2::D
(How long before these come out in cnc alloy?)
Another BK necessity driven invention.
:DuASensational !!!
BTW a wireless cam wont get the resolution that your blip is getting.
Keep up the good work, love these photos.They look pretty good, close to epoch-ish and could probably handle a few mods too.
Priest, let us know how you go with it when you have run it into a few obstacles.
:DuASomething similar has come up before….
http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2843&FORUM_ID=1&CAT_ID=1&Topic_Title=15+min+chargers+in+AUS%21%21%21&Forum_Title=GENERAL+CHATSensational Kero, inspirational, nice setup too.
The OSC pins are merely for timing.
Here are the data sheets for HLECs version.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/txrx2.pdf
Realtek used to make the bulk of them, but there are several clone sets including the SM61xx series that have variable OSC inputs, here
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/sm6136.pdf
Also the HES30xx are the same.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/hes3018.pdf
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/hes3017.pdf
:)uAThe OSC pins are merely for timing.
Here are the data sheets for HLECs version.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/txrx2.pdf
Realtek used to make the bulk of them, but there are several clone sets including the SM61xx series that have variable OSC inputs, here
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/sm6136.pdf
Also the HES30xx are the same.
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/hes3018.pdf
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/tyco/hes3017.pdf
:)uAThat link doesnt work for a start.
That link doesnt work for a start.
‘Cheap’ is the magic word Aaron. If you want to go anywhere near a decent DC motor dyno you will need to throw in some reasonable dollars.
There are several commercial versions around, some measure under no-load (not that much use IMO) and others that go right up to full on PC based read-outs with variable loads, costing thousands.
I still have interest in this subject, but at the moment I am hamstrung with selling/moving/building a house, and will be for the next few months.
I did some research on DC motor dynos back in the ‘Bit’ days and even found a very good example of a home built dyno that an engineer friend built with all the correct calculations and computations.
I have a Tekin dyno here (540 size DC dyno) that does produce useful numbers running test motors at 5v and loading them up (with another 540 motor), but as with most of my hobby stuff at the moment, its boxed up ready to move. They are 10 years old now, but still a useful tool in comparison tuning 540s. I am sure some of the 1:10 racing guys will have dyno info to add to this topic, but I’d like to keep an eye on this topic just the same.
A standardised comparison of small dc motors is long overdue, and several forum sites have threads about motor power/torque/rpm under load/no load that are just plain incorrect.
I’d like to see this corrected and see Ausmicro develope a definitive list, (if one is indeed possible) rather than just the rhetoric that is already out there.he he, lucky shes not a greyhound.
Looking nice zen, can I ask where you got those LiPos from?
uAWell there you go, bugger me, and bugger urban myths. Another one bites the dust.
:DuA
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