micro_Amps
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Yep thats true, but there is a 3 volt zener diode on the Rx pcb that limits the voltage going into the board to 3V.(The small pinky coloured glass component) So you are safe to charge at 4.5 or 6 volts. I dont know what voltage it would take to burn out the zener, but when it does you will hear a little bang and see a little smoke…….
Then it will be Uh oh !!!! 😯
:smiley16:uA
Yep thats true, but there is a 3 volt zener diode on the Rx pcb that limits the voltage going into the board to 3V.(The small pinky coloured glass component) So you are safe to charge at 4.5 or 6 volts. I dont know what voltage it would take to burn out the zener, but when it does you will hear a little bang and see a little smoke…….
Then it will be Uh oh !!!! 😯
:smiley16:uA
Quote:Eventhough I charged it for 180 min,I hope you meant 180 seconds (180 mins would kill it)
Anyway,
This may sound really really really stupid, but……. are you sure that the new battery is in the right way??
The plus (positive) end goes to the right (looking at the car from behind). If this is a definite yes, which I am assuming it is, try replacing it with the original battery and give it a charge to see if everything is still ok
I have no idea what would happen if the new battery was reverse charged. I would think this would lead to an early demise.
GoodluckCome on Shypo,
you didnt get to 1256 posts by being coy, so
SPILL YOUR GUTS!!!:angry:
There are important questions that need answers.:smiley2:
uA:DDo you know how many of these are being (or have been) produced??
Have you made sure you have good batteries in your controller. If they are weak it will not charge the battery fully
uA 🙂What exactly do you mean by “timing”
:question::question:uALooks like there were two people both willing to pay the same price too. That means the next NUR that goes up for sale will probably go for a similar price. I dont think US$200 is too bad for a NUR considering the two VOLTZs Ive seen on ebay recently went for 175 and 156 $US respectively (another went for US$100 and another didnt sell at US$130). I would have thought a NUR is worth HAEPS more than a VOLTZ. Unless you know someone you pay auction prices. What are the chances of prices going down in future?? Not much I expect.
Looks like there were two people both willing to pay the same price too. That means the next NUR that goes up for sale will probably go for a similar price. I dont think US$200 is too bad for a NUR considering the two VOLTZs Ive seen on ebay recently went for 175 and 156 $US respectively (another went for US$100 and another didnt sell at US$130). I would have thought a NUR is worth HAEPS more than a VOLTZ. Unless you know someone you pay auction prices. What are the chances of prices going down in future?? Not much I expect.
You would need to pit for toilet breaks, or could you have a multi driver team and alternate the driving.
This is getting outa control 😯Yeh, looks like there is a cripple cap on the 350z booster car pcb (in the usual spot) but I havent taken it off yet. Has anybody else?
The booster Rx pcbs are completely different anyway. Im not sure but I dont think that mod would be an easy one
uAQuote:and possibly a NUR and a Xbox rallisport edition WRX when i get the cashLots of it 🙂
Quote:and possibly a NUR and a Xbox rallisport edition WRX when i get the cashLots of it 🙂
Its good to hear some of the pros and cons.
Like I said, I do like the PT cruiser body. I think I might still consider getting a ‘donor’ car and doing an autopsy. :smiley2: uAYep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
:smiley16:uAYep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
:smiley16:uAMost likely designed differently ( I havent checked yet) The 1.0 would take more voltage because it probably has a higher resistance. A 3.8 would have less windings of thicker wire inside and would therefore have less tolerance to having more current shoved down its throat by increasing the voltage. I intend to test a couple of motors to destruction (and rewind them??), but I want to get a proper lab power supply first so I can properly record the results. Give me a couple of days…watch this space.
uA :question::question::question:Quote:I tried to make a charger using a voltage regulator stage (LM317) feeding into a constant current charger (LM317) but I couldnt get the thing to work. The idea was so it would charge the cell and sop and keep it topped up at the end of the charging cycle.Might be easier to have a timer on the first stage of charging, and after say..2 mins timer clicks over to open circuit the pot and puts higher resistance resistor into circuit to drop charging current to a trickle current.
uA213 meters, thats fantastic:D you would have to find a basketball or tennis complex with several courts side by side, and do some major range extending mods to your controller:smiley2:
uANah, thanks anyway tho. I might get a bus or another booster, or a Nur if I can find one cheap (LOL)
uA:DI was only using 1/64th as a guesstimate.
Exactly what scale are BCGs anyway:question:uAWelcome jc. You have alot to learn and alot of enjoyment in front of you. The past conversations here and at the previous site will be a help to answer many of your questions. Take the time and have a read. bit_charg_oz@hotmail.com sell a whole heap of stuff for BCGs and they are based in Oz too. Email them for a price list
uAWelcome jc. You have alot to learn and alot of enjoyment in front of you. The past conversations here and at the previous site will be a help to answer many of your questions. Take the time and have a read. bit_charg_oz@hotmail.com sell a whole heap of stuff for BCGs and they are based in Oz too. Email them for a price list
uAQuote:WARNING, DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE!!!!!:sad:Thanks Mondo, thats the kind of info I was looking for.
You just saved me $30. I might put it toward another Bit instead!:)Anyone else ?
uA
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