PandaBear
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Elizabeth Taylor celebrated her 40th b’day over & over for 20 yrs or so… between husbands #3-6 I think. 👿
Pity Tamiya missed out doing anything for their anniversary – their first R/C came out in 1976/77. I was hoping there’d be something out in 2002, but looks like Shizouka plain forgot. blackeye:
Quote:i reckon you would meatloaf the drivetrain though….Bolt it to the roof and use a 4″ prop! :D:D
Quote:It is the mad forces 40th anniverysay …Nah, MF is not 40, its barely even 2 yrs old… :p
Try Kyosho 😀 … 2003 was Kyosho’s 40th birthday.
I would have thought they would be done with all their ‘specials’
by now. They made some ltd edn serial-numbered MiniZs at the start
of 2003… eg gold & silver plated Ferrari F40s.Alpha2 is a huge improvement over the Alpha1 (a real shocker) & thankfully a complete redesign. But they are still a very basic design, absolutely nothing too special about it.
It is definitely “built to a price”. Even the electronics is basic… some say the ESC can barely handle the kit motor. Kyosho supplies battery and charger even, I think…
Honestly if you can find a Tamiya XBPro (based on TT01 chassis) it’ll be a much better car – even if one had to pay 50% more. The older XBs (based on TL01) is just as good for bashing, but they don’t have the ESC that XBPro gets.
Do they use the WR02 (Wild Willy 2) geardiff? :question:
Nah, they did it on ‘Top Gear’; cooked it on the manifold for 2 hrs and it still wasn’t done yet. 👿
Quote:ill look into the twin detonator, but i think itll cost too much. i dont want to spend alot …An “entree” version of the TwinDet will be appearing soon,
called the Mighty Bull. Its 1 motor 2WD; half a TwinDet.
MightyBull has a lexan body and will be an XB-Pro RTR complete
with the CPR ESC & radio.Same chassis also comes as kit in a hardshell “Blackfoot Extreme”.
Quote:How in gods name do you bend a dogbone???Whack something hard with your steering at full lock.
‘Bones can bend, the drivecups can break, the diff outdrives
can also lose pieces or most expensive… wreck a CVD uni. :dead:Surface is tarmac, lovely smooth tarmac.
Sponge is great although rubber works well too.You guys might want to consider lunch beforehand,
as there’s nothing to eat nearby. Unless someone
offers to organise a BBQ or something… :smiley2:In which case, 11:00 is good! 🙂
How much is postage & handling? blackeye:
Quote:Again I have to take exception to the idea that you need metal gears to go off road.err… No.
Never said you *need* metal gears for offroad.Just been saying that Tamiya’s TB01 rallycars get metal diff gears,
whilst only road-going TB01s get the lightweight plastic gears.You tell me Why…? :question:
Quote:Tamiya also use plastic dogdone ends on just about everything, and again, no problems with them cracking. …. Never broken a plastic ended dogbone.Christ!!!
We have broken EVERY plastic dogbone end off everything that’s got it.
On the TL01, FF02 you name it…. hate them like the plague.How on earth do you manage never to break them? :shock::shock:
Quote:…Don’t let anyone tell you you can’t take your car off road just because it has plastic gears.Umm… didn’t say EVERY car, I said wouldn’t try it
with something that inherited an EvoIII drivetrain.That’s One specific model – I did not generalise.
‘Cos mainly if you don’t know what you’re looking for when building
the EvoIII, it can skip & strip its bevel gears… and that’s just
with on-road running crazy mod motors.Jarr it hard enough with a frontal hit, & it’ll strip also.
Loose surfaces will be less traction = ‘stress’ on the drivetrain
but if you’re doing jumps & hard landings, that’ll still jarr the drivetrain.But on the other hand, a less-“Pro” tourer like a TL01 has a
drivetrain that’s totally plastic gears, but Tamiya knew to
build them real beefy & chunky to suit its intended market.You can take a TL01, give it buggy wheels (Stadium Raider & Bajas)
and the transmission copes with the offroad work just fine.
An excellent bashing mobile, it takes heaps of abuse.And I think Stadium Raider comes with 100% metal dogbones… :p
Some ‘serious’ fella asked me if we’ll need to
recharge the BCG during a lap… :clown:Track is HUGE for 1/10, even by Australian standards.
Average lap is around 20s.Quote:I’m bringing my Ultima RB (can we use nitro cars???)Sorry folks, I did post on Jamie’s other thread that
we cannot run nitro at TFTR so pls don’t bring them.There’s a narky neighbour nearby who will rat TFTR to the council
at every indiscretion, and the council will have no hesitation to
shut TFTR down when they get tired of too many complaints. :dead:The track is only 10′ from nearest house fence, so fair enough.
Some of the residents have been living there far longer than
the facility, even if the track has been there since 1980s.Quote:TB-01’s (02 as well I guess)you *guess*… yeah, thanks.
That’s why I stated TB01/EvoI&II drivetrain are based upon the
TG10/TGR, these are Nitro cars so the electric can survive rallying.
So Tamiya can sell TB01s (with metal gears) as rally cars.But EvoIII/TB02 is an entirely different beast.
Complete brand new drivetrain.Plastic gears + gears built to the minimum strength
needed to survive electric touring, that’s what EvoIII/TB02 is
and that’s why it excels on the racetrack – no excess fat.If anybody wants to take it outside its design intentions then that’s
your own sole perogative. Do whatever you want with your own toys.Just don’t whinge if it gives up ghost earlier than your expectations;
certainly Tamiya didn’t design the EvoIII drivetrain for offroad use.If you run offroad tyres on tarmac yes your rubber spikes
will disappear faster than icecubes in Hades.Then you’re left with flat rubber, which probably grips better
than spikes on tarmac… but then they’ll be useless offroad. 🙂Best to decide what exactly you want.
Sure you can take a touring car to go rallying, like they do
on the WRC. But don’t expect to have anything left at the end }:)]
… on WRC they rebuild the car just about every stage!!
(even Looks like they bring all new cars to every race!!!?)Quote:“There’s also a new Touareg “i saw the v10 turbo diesel version (real life) pulling a combine harvester on tv the other week. the best offroader in my mind at the moment…
Unfortunately Tamiya’s Touareg is the Paris-Dakar racer, so that’s
as related to the retail SUV as are the Pajero Evolutions, hehehe.Doesn’t take much to pull a combine though… they might weigh a
tonne or 2 but they’ve still got wheels. On a flat hard surface
you can manage to push it hard enough to make it budge.
(take the handbrake off first!!)What TIME boys, time?
After lunch, early afternoon?
Quote:might get a few nasty comments, (GTF off the track with that thing….)ya, STOP OVERTAKING MY 1/10, its embarassing … :p:p
Tues 13th I’ll be back in the office… 🙁
All current crop of Tamiyas have lexan shells, with exception of BlackFoot Extreme and the new Super ClodBuster (might not arrive Oz).
There are guys who have converted their EvoIIIs into offroad buggies, but I suspect they’ll soon be having some problems with the diffs.
EvoIII/TB02 diffs have plastic outdrives & plastic gears, they are built lightweight for electric onroad application only.
TB01 was based on TG10, with chunky huge metal diffs so it’ll take the bashing. Tamiya sells option “lightweight” plastic versions and warns you not to use them in a rally or nitro car.
There’s also a new Touareg (lexan body) on a CrossCountry chassis, but this also might not make it into Oz.
All current crop of Tamiyas have lexan shells, with exception of BlackFoot Extreme and the new Super ClodBuster (might not arrive Oz).
There are guys who have converted their EvoIIIs into offroad buggies, but I suspect they’ll soon be having some problems with the diffs.
EvoIII/TB02 diffs have plastic outdrives & plastic gears, they are built lightweight for electric onroad application only.
TB01 was based on TG10, with chunky huge metal diffs so it’ll take the bashing. Tamiya sells option “lightweight” plastic versions and warns you not to use them in a rally or nitro car.
There’s also a new Touareg (lexan body) on a CrossCountry chassis, but this also might not make it into Oz.
Nah, we’ll just muscle in. 👿
time? open to suggestions…
Go north from FTG and you’ll be in Templestowe.
So Tempe might be the best bet (Important:- Electric only).
Wonder how long it’ll take a BCG to navigate 1 lap of Tempe… :):evil::D
If you had tried something just slightly longer or shorter, it could well get it back on song!
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