PandaBear
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Hmm… what’s so “new” about that design?
Wouldn’t be able to tell the differences from 10 paces away… blackeye:Also, I thought having 8 or 10 (or more) big long boofy shocks was part of the mosnter trucking appeal..?
Hidden cantilever shocks… makes it look like an F1 car with overgrown tyres, plus Tamiya 1/10 TXT & TLT 1/18 already used it yrs ago.
Quote:I think I’ll eventually code the code out ….have we worked out what the scoring formulae is yet?? :):p
At TCS 2003 I was running “without” servosaver to give some extra steering directness… narrow track with PVC-pipe barriers were very hard on little plastic S3003 gears.
Went thru about 5 serovs – all stripped output gears, including 1 that literally blew out the side of the servocase. 😯
Now have a queue at the servo doctor… need to go stock up on more gearsets first. When I get around to reordering, you need any Aaron?? 🙂
Err.. better read the post again… nowhere did I ever say its ‘crap’. :p Sanwa 102 is not the fastest nor most torquey servo out there, but it does its job.
My personal preference is the Futaba S3003. It is a tiny bit faster & stronger than the Sanwa, but it is Futaba’s basic model. I like it over the Sanwa as I find it easier to get spareparts for Futaba – gears, case etc.
Quote:with a 4×2 stack of IRF73893 mosfets I was getting 30kph, this was accuratly tracked by betty.k riding alongside with his bike and reading its speedo, lol………Set a date and I’ll rock up with the K-band Bushnell. :smiley16:
“Sticks and stones may break one’s bones,
and names can really hurt…
… but yeah don’t poke sticks at snoozing lawyers.”We’re like chalk & cheese.
(I’m the Tasty one)AUSMICRO’s Revenue Drive:-
Monthly subscription fee: $x
Annual subscription fee: $X
Ltd Edn T-shirts: $T
Name change fee: $50 per request
Stickers BCG size: $a
Stickers 1/10 size: $A
Stickers 1:1 size: $B
:p
Can’t anymore. blackeye:
1) he’s grown bigger than me, you guys saw him
and
2) he’s now a fully-qualified lawyer.
Weren’t you boys still there when I discovered the bro hadn’t hit ‘REC’…?? :shock::dead:
Quote:i realised very quickly on the day why 1:10’s are mostly 4wd. without it they’d never make it around the track at the speeds they do:8ball:nup! Those are just the touring cars, 4WD = easier to drive.
TFTR used to race RWD F1 (b4 Tamiya spoilt the party with 4WD F201)
… they go quicker than the TCs, but they need a lot more skill to stay on the track. There’s also the 1/12ths and the Pro10s which are
always pan cars with direct-drive transmissions – very efficient!At Velodrome the Pro10s got their own class… as they’d have
embarassed all the mod TCs. :pBut RWD pan cars have all fallen from popularity as newbies don’t
have the skill to drive them anymore these days nor do they
have the patience to learn.LRP is a good brand and the Runner is pretty good for a basic fed/rev model.
What’s the ask?
I don’t think their current-handling would be good enough for a MiniZ…
Sanwa 102 is the basic servo that comes with radio sets; RRP is about $25-30. Haven’t seen anywhere that sells spare gears for them locally otherwise the gears would only be $5.
Your best bet is to buy a new servo, or if you’re lucky buy a dead 102 from someone and steal its gears.
New TL01 chassis parts sprue is only about A$25.
If fully ballraced, TL01 is plenty bulletproof. If you don’t have full bearings, the kit plastic & bronze bushings will cause problems as they wear out.
Quote:i drive there with the family, but the car battery idea doesnt work as we run a TV at night and charge mobile phones if needed. the battery cant really handle 2hrs of tv and a phone being charged without a jump start, so charging an RC just wouldnt make it onto the list of priorities. we only go away for 2-3 days at a time, so a litre or nitro would be more than enough (i think?).1L lasts about a hour of play, $15-20 ($25 in TAS :dead:).
Charge your batteries WHILE you’re driving!! 🙂 I always have a old-school clockwork charger with a ciggy plug on it, that can charge my packs while the engine is running.
Once you’re parked… I keep a voltmeter across the battery. When it reaches 11.5V I start the car up and run a fast idle for 10 mins.
(ok ok, every so often I forget… so its Hello Mr RACV. “You again? Which track today then?!” :p)
Quote:i dont mind if theres more troubles with nitro, because i enjoy fixing and tinkering with stuff. if it were to break on a camp, id just pack it up and leave it til i got home.Easy said than done, but gosh you’ll be disappointed.
Nitro cars used infrequently can be very hard to start, with
no obvious reasons. Last thing I’d enjoy doing is trying
to troubleshoot something without the full phalange of
good tools and workbench with proper lighting.tO CONFUSE THE MONKEY! 🙂
Usually I wouldn’t consider any form of camping
unless I get to drive there… = no hiking.Which also means there’ll be a 12V battery right
under the bonnet, handy for charging hehe.
(careful to leave enuff juice to churn your car but)Trouble with nitro cars is, when you run out of
fuel you’ll have to stock up at a hobby store.
There’s more things to go wrong, more tools to
pack and more hassles with starting gear etc.When I pack an RC on holiday, its invariably
an electric together with 240AC/12DC fast charger.
Sometimes I don’t even bring a toolbox.Think PD’s talking about the full-sized version, not P’s little mini monster!! :smiley2:
Nitro cars don’t really go that quick… its just the noise that
makes it seem quicker than it is. They are quicker out-of-box
than a stock electric running a Mabuchi 540, but even a mild
modified motor will have more torque from standstill.Quote:also, how much do i have to spend on radio gear, servos, etc.Radio sets start from about A$90 for a 2ch stick, $150 for a wheel.
These are basic good-brand AM radios that do the job fine. There are
fancier FM or PCM units, with computer digital settings etc and
the sky’s the limit on these.You get 2 servos with the radio set, they are functionally usable.
Again there are heaps-dearer servos with more torque & speed, but the
base units are more than enough for an electric car.Need a battery too, racing packs start from say $30.
And a suitable charger to juice it up, anywhere from $30 up.Tamiya kits usually come with a Mechanical Speed Controller controlled
by the 2nd servo. Although this setup works, you’ll get more control
with an electronic spd ctrl (ESC). Factor in $100-150 for something
decent that will handle reasonably hot motors, better to avoid the
<$100 ESCs that can only work stock motors.Kit comes with 540 motor, you can good speed out of these by gearing
them high and making use of the high torque they offer. Next step
on the horsepower ladder are the “stock” 27-turn motors, then come
modified (ie ‘not stock’) motors from mild (mid-teens turns) to
wild (single-digits). Motors usually about $60-150.Does that Vette body fit the MR02?
Supposedly quite a lot of the old shells won’t
fit the MR02, at least with the 1st Enzos.
Not sure if the NSX has been fixed.No, that sounds pretty good too.
You can buy a Proline Acura RSX shell, I think it looks more “street” than the Tamiya Integra – T’s is the racer version with funny airvents and spoilers.
Quote:so we have access to power points?yep, 240 sizzling volts.
I’ll try remember to pack a few yards of cord.Quote:and what are you bringing? leon has told us that there will be some 1/10 pukes there…I’ll pack a stock standard unFETted unmodded BCG with 2.6 hahaha…
‘cos that’s all I have in 1/64.Quote:I’m picking up betty and jamie, we’ll be there at approx 11:15am….Good of you M.
I might be a wee bit later.If anybody’s got a picnic table or card table it might be handy to cart it along too. Saves working off the ground!
Sad you can’t make it uA.
No, I think that’s a pretty decent price.
As rule of thumb – if you can get any Tamiya for
under $400 as a RTR with battery & decent charger
you’re doing well.Sounds like you’ll have enough change for a full
set of bearings too – Bonus!! 🙂So how many are we expecting tomorrow?
ph2t
porkhunt
uA
bettyk
JK
mercblue?
leonli17That’s 8 so far. :approve:
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