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was led to belive that this was a Associated…

That *is* an Associated RC12e from about 1980. 🙂

Doubt if Schumacher re-sold it with their badging, unlikely
as Cecil Schumacher was pretty big in those days in 1/12th
and had their own line of racing chassis.

Honestly… I wouldn’t try getting that and the Tamiya RR running.
Its probably worth more to a collector in their current condition
before you wreck it any more. If you want something to run, best
to flog it off and buy something more modern.

Does not need to be said that spares for those things are super Rare
and will not be found anymore at your local hobby shop!! 👿

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I see, body parts supply has always been iffy.

If you’re Willy is like mine (also one of the first shipment HEHE), the body is fairly beat up by now (I gave it a mid life smoothing and re-paint) and while the wheels are OK, they scratched and cracked at the beads. The underside has a fair few scratches etc.

So what’s my point? Given that replacing the body might cost you $80-120 (once you add the rollbars, figure etc, etc), you may as well buy another $240 kit.

WW2 gets the occasional outing:-

But no, the parts aren’t really for fixing up the runner WW2.
(I ordered them from Day 1 remember?) Thought some of them would
be useful for rejuvenating its older cousins… 🙂

I’ve been running the ‘big’ bumper from new, and even though
WW2 is the usual RC that gets “borrowed” to RC-newbies, its
survived very well – haven’t broken anything major yet.

WW2 last spotted terrorising our nation’s capital… :p

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Damned good find there, PD.

Those are worth a pretty penny these days, if in decent condition.

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MERRY XMAS ALL!

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Can’t understand why you can’t get WW2 parts, most of the car is common with other Tamiyas (as is always the case).

Oh, it not all the suspension bits shared with TL01/FF02/TB01,
certainly all those would be a no-brainer to source.
(or just snaffle them off a neighbouring TL01/FF02/TB01 :smiley2:)

Its the specialised bits like
-all the itsy bits that make up the WW2 body
-and classic Wild Willy figure!
-chassis spaceframe parts

Ordered these parts right when WW2 came out locally.
My kits were off the first Japan batch (Oct 1999).

Chassis plastics are starting to show some stress fractures
and the shell has taken its fair share of roadrash.
Spares would be nice to have. 🙂

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Wow, sounds like you’ve got Groupies, OTP!! 🙂

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Melb chewed through a lot more cash than expected so we may be running straight through from the port on the 5th (evening arrival) but not sure at this stage 😉

Your fault for hanging around CROWN CASINO too long! :p

Mon the 4th evening?
Okie I’ll chalk it up.
Can grab a coffee or something more substantial.

(Hope you weren’t planning on making it back to ACT by daybreak?)

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Haven’t seen it down here yet, Aggy.
It will be interesting how US$150 translates to, in AUD. :blush:

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yea, its just i assumed as the tmaxx is 399.99 and the surikarn is 399 that they would be the same, i would prolly rather like a xray evo2 or a schumacher though

If you’re going by Tamiya America’s pricing, yeah they don’t
do anyone any favours over there. They keep everything a
premium-priced product over there. :dead:

Dropped in at LHS on w/e and they had some super special on
the Xray Raycer… wow $399??! But Xray still not very popular
at the local tracks, its not as big as up in Sydney ‘cos the
same shop here promotes the Schuey Mission big time, and
imho gives them away for $299 (std) & $499 (carbon).

Corally has a decent following in Melbourne too.

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have u seen the prototype hpi pro4 it looks a beast

HPI Pro4 pix have been previewed so long ago, if/when it
actually reaches the track, its gunna be an anticlimax! :p

Well?? 😀

Mission’s new Mi2 looks pretty good too and pricing will be
acceptable… but unfortunately they are paid for in GBP not USD
so the AUD’s improvement doesn’t help it as much.

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I’m sure they get their Kyo stuff from Dawn, it’s just that nothing is ever on the shelf, always have to wait a week or two. Granted, because of this, I haven’t bought a Kyo car in 2 years, so things may have changed. Other problem is once a Kyo goes OOP, forget about parts altogether.

Dunno… haven’t quite tested that to the extreme, but everything
that we’ve asked for from Dawn has (eventually) arrived. Only bad
thing with Kyosho is that their parts cross-referencing is lousy,
makes it very difficult to check unless one has the car’s manual.

But as for Tamiya… hmm, got a whole heap backordered via TT
which I don’t hold much hope of ever turning up this decade.
That includes every single WW2 sparepart I can think of… :dead:

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Maybe the solution is NTC3.

Hrrumph. Dawn handles AE… 👿

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lol panda id hate to ask the cost of the surikarn 3 from a australian lhs itd be like 1000.00 chassis only

Surprisingly… 🙂 no.

The Surikarn Limited is a niche/specialist car, not meant for
‘everyone’ so they mainly sell that to the serious racers only.
But even a newbie can say that’s not a cheap car, you can tell where
the manufacturing $$$ has been spent on – it just looks spectacular.

When they first came out, our LHS had them for ~A$720 and today
I think they’ve got 1 or 2 left – betcha if you’re really nice
to the shopkeep he might let you buy it for $650. :smiley2:
(eek, btw that’s COST price!)

Its a darned good deal, considering the original EvoIII (#58299)
came out at $650 and they sold out in a shot. Damned, even *I*
missed out on that one (sob!). blackeye: And to spec that up to SL-spec
(minus the red) would cost easily another $3-400 in parts.

But that would probably be an unnecesarily exercise… 😀

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Isn’t the Wild Willy 2 built on a modified TL-O1 chassis?

No, the WW2’s “WR-02” chassis is unique for that kit.

It may share one or 2 small parts with the TL01, but then
same parts would also be used on FF02, TB01, M03, M04 etc.

btw, imho local Oz street prices are usually approx:-

TL01: A$220-300 full chassis complete with body, MSC & 540 motor

TA04S: A$250-350 “chassis kit”, no body/motor/MSC.

TA04R: A$450-500 with the NSX2002 body, no motor.
(“R” = lotsa hopups)

TA04-TRF A$650 chassis kit only.

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D’oh! Got the office do this Fri so that’s a writeoff. 🙁

Might have to catch you on the return leg?

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OTP:- are your HPI supplies “grey imported” by your LHS, or do they come the offical route?? All the guys here (ie everywhere outside Sydney) that deal with the offical importers get lousy support. 🙁

As for Kyosho… your LHS should get in touch with offical importers Dawn Trading. They’ve come up with the goods everytime, can’t see any problems there for ‘current’ locally-available items. (just not KX-1… :blush:)

all:- as for “problems getting HPI parts”… well, it wouldn’t be as ‘important’ if you’re only casually bashing around and can afford to have your car laid-up broken whilst you import your own parts from overseas.

But if you’re racing them seriously (and once upon a time, HPI’s 200mm Nitro was *the* car to have), this is totally unsatisfactory! :angry:

As a result of all that, I now refuse to buy nor race HPI cars in Australia. I’d rather send my $$ elsewhere, there are better brands out there.

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It depends on what kind of finish you’re looking for.

For the ultimate in “mirror gloss” using a dark
solid shade eg black, midnight blue etc… get
ready for lots of cutting back!!

If you just want something coloured… stick with
metallics etc and you’ll never need to polish.

Be careful when polishing etc too… there’s a
high chance you can wear thru the paint coat.
Use maskingtape to protect the corners & edges.

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… ok, DON’T send mail to Mr birdcr@p ok? :clown:

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I don’t consider using automotive laquers a compromise. In fact, if you wanted to debate it, I’d tell you that DupliColor laquers will kick Tamiya’s behind all up and down the block, then kick it in the face for good measure. It dries thinner, harder, smoother, more consistant, faster, glossier, more durable, etc., etc. than Tamiya paints. Part of the key is the EZ pressure nozzle which is the closest to a spray gun that I’ve used. The spray is soo much finer than on Tamiya’s nozzles.

Haha, I use Holt’s Duplicolor too… but only on the 1:1. 😀
Best about that is… can buy HUGE 400ml can cheap,
useful for doing 2 full coats on whole car panels.

Big thing to remember is… the Holt’s spray pattern is “fan” shaped
(like grafitti’ng with a flat brush), whereas the Tamiya is circular.
You can adjust the fan direction to your preference.

Personally, the Holts stuff seems to go on thicker. It does ‘cover’
some small details, but it may flow better (better gloss from gun).
Tamiya is thinner… made for preserving your model’s good details,
so be sure to do your paint prep.

Not sure if it dries quicker… maybe to the touch, but I wouldn’t
sand/polish it within a week of application – last time I tried it
I totally mucked up the job. Nowadays, the panel is usually first
back on the car then I do the polishing a week or 4 afterwards.

Tamiya’s colours I can polish* 24 hrs later.
(I don’t usually polish the clear coat.)

However best not to use Tamiya’s TS paints on your 1:1. Sure it
looks good at first, but I don’t think it survives the sun & birdcr@p
too well. It could wear off quite quickly with constant car washing.
Dare say the Holts stuff is harder-wearing – horses for courses.

* polish with Tamiya Polishing or Cutting Compounds.

I also keep wet-n-dry in 1000, 1200, 1800, 2000, 3000 grit.

If only doing BCG shells just buy the handy Tamiya multi-pack
@ LHS which gives you 5 small sheets in 3 super-fine grades.

If you need heaps then buy it from a car detailer or paintshop.
Probably charge you about $2-3 the standard large sheet by 3M.

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Don’t leave it to “someone else” fellas, just be
PRO-ACTIVE and TAKE RESPONSIBILITY and Just Do It! 🙂

Doens’t have to be anything too formal, just
organise a get-together where a bunch of guys
and meet without getting too hassled by others
(you will appear to public as ‘wierdos’ playing with toy cars…:blush:)

Quick tips:
1) best is a central location, not too far away from most comers
2) think of those who don’t/can’t drive – public transport?
3) best not to be in a ‘licenced’ place where < 18s can't enter (legally)

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Get a HPI over Kyosho because parts are easier to get…

Depends where you live… you SURE you live in Australia?? :p:shock::p
HPI support is hopeless where I am… :dead:

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Tamiya “TS” clear is good, it doesn’t age yellow.

It is also a synthetic lacquer, so it goes over
most other paints OK. Haven’t found anything that
the Tamiya clear has trouble with yet.

It sprays very fine out of the pack, but for best
results I always warm the can first. Run warm
tapwater over the can whilst shaking it until the
whole can is warm to the touch. Spray the coats
on lightly and let it dry a few minutes… keep
the can in your pants pocket to keep it warm.

Best part is it dries FAST! 30mins sees it safe
to touch and 24 hrs is more than enough to start
any sanding you might want to do.

With clear… surface preparation is paramount.

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Think there’s some mob in Mulgrave or thereabouts
who run mZs. Or there’s an old slotcar track in
Hoppers (Melb Track & Hobby) which they won’t mind
you using for mZs and Micro RS4s.

Or why not join up a few other guys with mZs and
start your own racing group yourself?? 🙂

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Chicks can’t take up all our time ppl, taht why we play with TOYS!!

Time is free & got lots of… I’m tokkin’ $$$! :dead:

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…prospective MIL.

koff
koff
Congratulations…?
😯

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Ya taking the boat from Sydney, or ya passing via Melbourne on the way…??! 🙂

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