PandaBear
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Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002
i can get a onroad electric car all stock doin a wheelie with no money spent on it
sigh… yeah yeah yeah ok then, why not just SHOW us a pix?
(Handsup here also who also wants to see a pix of your mod Clod)
Or am I the only one with pix to back my words??? :smiley12:
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 07November2002Trust me pandabear, the power of these motors is under 1/4 watt, the gears could take the torture easily with 10 times more torque.
Oh ya, the gears themselves can survive the power but I’m recently getting worried about the gear-to-axle adhesion.
I got into the habit of using reverse as brake (as you do), and now I’m thinking the gear and LH wheel seems to have loosened on the axle. The couple of wheelie attempts wouldn’t have helped things either.
Its happening on 2 cars now. :smiley6:
hey GUBBLE:- false alarm there… TradingDirect sez:
“small items (eg bit char G and micro Z spares) can be posted Australia Wide for $4.80 (inc GST) – choose Australia Wide (Small Package)”
That said, not trying to spoil the party here – I know they’re not up-n-running yet, I found no BCG cars today and only some accessories:-
Gear Parts Set A (Bit G) $16.99
Micro Motor 1.6 (Bit Char G) $14.99
Micro Motor 2.2 (Bit Char G) $16.50
Micro Motor 2.6 (Bit Char G) $16.50
Tomy Bit Char G. Tyre Parts Set. $16.99
If those prices are any indication, that’s pretty lineball with the current ‘import’ shops in town – you *sure* they’re still “better than any Oz shop”?? At these prices (not incl. shipping) imho you guys could also have been able to make a decent biz selling what you were b4 too.Yeah, Jamie’s right – you don’t even need weights with a 2.2 car. Just back it up and slam it ‘fwd’ should be enough to lift the wheels when fully charged… but I don’t think its very good for your gears though.
When I wanna wheelie, I go run the “real thing”… :smiley10:say hi to Wild Willy!!
Someone did recently fit a tiny diesel engine to a Tamiya mini 1/32 monster truck and made it RC too… the pix are somewhere on the Net.
Quote:Originally posted by Impreza on 06November2002Once again I agree with PandaBear (why are you always right?).
Amazing what you can learn in the skool-o-hard-knocks… :smiley2: all those skills much more useful and lots more practical than everything I ever learnt in school or uni.
eg… in uni they taught us how to program in C and Pascal (sigh!).
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 07November2002How can the LED drain all the current, they only draw about 20 odd milliamperes.
The LED by definition has no resistance when ‘on’… so it can (theoretically) draw every mA of current you try put into the battery – like charging a shorted battery. Too much amps thru the LED and it blows up.
Put the LED the other/wrong (‘off’) way and its resistancebecomesinfinite. It will not conduct, it will not light up when ‘off’.
Then again, if the LEDs are connected ‘on’ to the battery, then when you plug on the charger the LEDs should light up too. Does it?
Quote:Originally posted by spacegost on 07November2002Panda, If you don’t want to add to the Gates fortune, then you should buy an Xbox Microsoft losesabout $100US on each unit that it sells (at least in North America) but you can’t buy any accessories orgames for it though
a controller has about 150% profit packed into it. even third party makers have to pay microsoft for licensing. Even at $300, sony was losingmoney on each unit it sold.
Yeah, we’ve already investigated that route… :smiley2:unfortunately an Xbox without games is pretty useless. Did youknow you can’t even re-use that HDD in your PC? Its encoded via its IDE and will not work on any other machine, not even in a different XBox.
Whereas the PS2 is cool enough to use as a sculpture/table-decoration!! (Well, *I* think so anyway, the women seem to sometimes think differently.)
Too true on all that “loss-intro marketing”. The buggers love doing that to me… I’m a Gillette (who 1st started it all) customer!!
Quote:Originally posted by Chris_Flowers on 07November2002What about the marvelous Nintendo Gamecube?
Ugh, can’t stand it. We were playing on a friend’s about a week after it came out in Japan last xmas (the wonders of mailorder!) and the 1st 4 games weren’t too exciting. The later ones eg Mario Mansion aren’t that attractive either… not unless you’re 12yo or so. Plus it can’t play CD/DVDs.
Gotta have “Dead or Alive”!!! :smiley9:
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 07November2002Anyway, were a bit off topic.
haha, true… don’t need IC engines in the toolbox!! :smiley2:
Haha, good one Maki. Good job on the OHP film spoilers!!
Quote:Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 07November2002You cant put solid fuel into an ic engine…dodgy fuel is bad enough, and how would you ignite it? It is fine powder btw.
yeah, I know… but someone in one of the Unis did modify a current piston engine and fed it on powdered carbon. It had some kind of direct injection setup where the fuel was fed direct into the cylinder. Haven’t seen it on the showroom floor yet though – car that runs on pencil shavings!! :smiley2:
Carbon powder actually ignites easier than you think… eg take a teaspoonful and *blow* it over the top of a lit match. Do it OUTSIDE though… you’ll be most surprised. Come to think of it, BETTER NOT try it yourself; I’m a born pyromaniac and I’m used to putting out the fires heh heh heh (nobody saw it, nobody saw me do it, I know nuttin’!!).
Back in uni days, they’ve got engines that will run on just about anything. We even had one that you could vary the compression *whilst* it is running, that was quite cool. Nearly as cool as the gas turbine that idled at 50,000rpm – you can burn a lot of different fuels in this, from hydrogen to fossil oils.
Quote:Originally posted by Lazboy on 07November2002like it make that much of a diffrence how many times has your motor over heated ???? and if you want to save weight just butcher it and cut out any metal that dosent need to be there
Haha, save yourself the trouble…
The KITs come *standard* with 3 types of motor covers:-
- standard shiny silver, shape & holes just like BCG’s
- black chrome, shape/weight like standard
- skinny ‘bent’ one, no holes
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You can go find the last ‘skinny’ one from a KIT instead of cutting. (But I think it only comes in a KIT with a b2.2, so I didn’t buy that one.)
btw: The BCG heatsink steel is actually tough enough to dent your wirecutter pliers (don’t ask!) :smiley9:.
Quote:Originally posted by Gubble on 07November2002…I was expecting a postage and handling cost of $4-5 (considering that it is couriered) only to find that it was actually around $16.
Geez indeed!! $16 = US$8 and for that, heck you could get a whole lot more posted over from you-know-where…
Aaron??! D?? You 2 there?? We’ve got a problem here matey!!
Quote:Originally posted by Lazboy on 07November2002lol PandaBear looks like you have made an ememy
Can’t help bad luck, not if this fella goes around tellin’ everyone he buys microcars and then returns them minus some Bits. http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=4&TopicID=1230&ReturnPage=&PagePosition=1&ThreadPage=2
And then even has cheek to offer them for sale as spares. http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=5&TopicID=1294&PagePosition=1
Glad ya noticed, LB… and hope your parents also taught you right vs wrong just like mine did. Its a pity some miss out, but they’ll all end in gaol before long.
Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002…hell my pro 2 dident come with tires or rims. you suck ass for sayin the tamya is good they make sh*t. f**k if you get a tamya your better off buyin a nikko or somthin. i raced onroad gas .15 and .21 i raced on road electric and off road gas.. i have the fastest car knowen the serpent vector 0-60 mph in 1.5 sec top speed of 90mph dont know with a well knowen name. the best car makers are schumacher corally hpi serpent.
What ya tokkin’ about, bro? Youse not makkin n e sense again… you tokkin’ about the HPI Pro2 or Pro3 now?? Two totally different cars!!?!
Also it is “TA04” as in ‘tee aay Zero Four’, not TA40 ‘forty’.
And bro… I’ve been driving Serpents before you were even born. The Quattro 1/8th (world champs in ’83, 84, 85) is the granddaddy to the Vector and Impulse of today. (Betcha youse dun even kno witch kuntry Serpents come from, for that matter.)
Do you even know *where* AUSTRALIA is??
Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002lets see ifmar istc touring car world champ is atsushi hara you dumb f**k he dosent run a f**king ta40 he runs a tc3 by team orion get your sh*t st8 before you give a kit bad advise.
That was LAST year (2001), my friend… – its 2002 now and Hara came 3rd with his HPI this year . If you can’t face the facts and admit Tamiya took the world champs, well, then that’s your own problem. If you dare to open your eyes, the link is here:- http://www.rcracer.com/n00_85.htm, like it or lump it.
btw, you *barely* make SENSE, even before you start your foul Swearings – so piss off and let others bring some sensibility to this thread.
And hey YANKEE… A$1 =/= US$1… wish it were, but its not.
Back to busines:-
SBMPro:- A$500 might buy a basicTA04 kit + a radio set… but maybe not enough to get setup properly. Local prices in AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS (so that some eavesdroppers might Get the Hint!!) you’re approx looking at:
- TA04 kit alone… approx A$350-750
- Radio set: basic stick 2ch ~$110, wheel starts from $150 upwards
- Battery packs start from about $50 each, buying 2-3 is best.
- Charger… cheapest start from $30, but better to spend $60+
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Add the ‘lowest’ of all those numbers and its already over A$500. :smiley6:
Perhaps you could consider the TB01 chassis instead – its probably a bit easier to build and its shaftdrive will tolerate backyard-bashing better. TB01 is about $100 cheaper. One big thing to remember is that the rest of the stuff (radio, battery, charger) is transferrable to your next better car, so you might want to spend a bit more on these at the start so you don’t need to upgrade too soon.
Tamiya kits usually come with a mechanical speed control, so you don’t need an Electronic Speed Control “ESC” straightaway. Sure its better for racing, but you can live without it at first. Entry level ESCs start from about $100… someone mentioned some big names like Novak, LRP etc – hey, sure they’re all good ESCs but I dunno which hobbyshop yankeeboy STEALShisfrom, as us Aussies pay A$350+ for the CycloneTC2 down here, Keyence is ~A$500 for just for a little matchbox of electronics. ESC is not essential at the start.
You cannot just say you want a “fast” car… Electric cars will *always* go only as fast as the motor/battery that is in it, doesn’t matter what the car is. Tamiya kits come with a standard 540 motor… it isn’t flash but it does get your car moving fast enough for you to learn driving. (You can even get Tamiya’s cheapest chassis TL01, put in the option super-high gearset and the TL01 will still easily go *faster* in a straightline, but it won’t handle as well as the TB01 and TA04.)
To go faster you need a ‘hotter’ motor, which will drain your battery faster too. You can get higher capacity batteries ($$), might also want to think of an ESC at this stage. But this is *later* on, you don’t have to start off with everything… unless you’ve abudget for A$2000, that’d be nice.:smiley14:
If this is the first ‘real’ RC you’re owning, Tamiya is a pretty good way to go. I have seen/touched/driven/raced most of the other brands out there and that’s quite a few good cars out there too, but over the last 25 yrs Tamiya always given the best quality & Instructions etc – an excellent 1st car.
As for ppl who laugh at Tamiya owners?? I think they stopped laughing since May 2002… Tamiya are ISTC World Champs. Go ahead and laugh all you want, but the facts don’t lie.
I don’t & won’tbadmouth other makes… that’s waaay too childish.
Hope I make more sense to you!
Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 07November2002…all the cans on the rc car eng. are black well on the good engs.
Really now…?
(digs out the RC box)
Green Machine… green. Orion… shiny chrome. P2k and Trinity D4… golden bronzey finish. Several other Kyoshos in Epic cans… all colours BUT black.
Geez, the last black can that came my way was a Yokomo stocker… yeah, dated 1992.
Whoopee doo! :smiley11:
Quote:Originally posted by GT-ahh on 07November2002but isnt aluminium is a better conductor of heat so it draws more away?
Aluminium heatsink is only an option item like the b3.0, cannot be found in any KIT/BR kit.
You’d want it only for the weight savings.
Yeah yeah, I’ll bet its even cheaper if YOU go return the empty box for a full refund, huh??
We call that “theft” down here. :smiley7:
btw, ever heard of FOREIGN EXCHANGE??
Quote:Originally posted by Impreza on 06November2002Anyone see the Hotwheels track racers (didn’t see the name)? They could be a cheap source for parts 🙂
Yeah, these are known as Tomy Bit Racers in Japan. Licenced by Mattel to be sold elsewhere under the Hot Wheels name.
We’re already scumming off all their Bit Racer options… like the Lucifer 3.0!!
Source = yes, cheap = not really.
SMBro:- heh, stuff all that “insider tip” crap, only ppl who were born yesterday think its so damned new-n-wonderful. (Hollowed brushes aren’t a new trick, its been out in the 1980s.) Can’t make sense of what else he/she said.
The BEST TIP that anyone can give you, I’ll give you here… choose the car with the Best Parts Support. It don’t matter how good or how fast it is, if you can’t get spareparts when you need it – its worth squat. Find out what & where the locals race and see what they run.
I’ve been up to Brisbane earlier this year, you guys get decent support for Tamiya stuff, especially in the Toyworlds up there (its different down in VIC). Kyosho should also be pretty good, but they make no good electric cars.
HPI support has always been pretty patchy in Oz, I like their earlier NRS4 gas cars but I had major headaches getting even common parts – I won’t run HPI in Oz anymore. Schumacher stuff depends greatly on who’s bringing it in; if he’s near you then that’s good, if not then you’ll have problems too.
That said, I’ve PAID MY OWN $$$ for this, I DIDN’T STEAL IT, I DIDN’T BUY SOMETHING AND THEN RETURN THE BOX FOR REFUND WITH ALL THE GOOD BITS MISSING, I’m not ashamed to *show* this is what I run today:-http://willandjuinn.us/rcpix/TA04%2022.JPG
If your budget can allow, the TA04 series is a decent ride. Don’t forget too that you’ll also need radio gear, batteries, charger, motor, ESC, glue, paint etc. Just don’t steal from others to feed your RC habit, ok?
If you don’t wish to start off straight at the ‘top end’, also take a look at the Tamiya TB01 and TL01. TL01 is a decent ‘budget’ car and the TB01 can hold its own in stock class racing easily. Both of these are also shaft-drive cars that will avoid belts getting fouled from dirt & debris, if you run in dirtier unswept areas.
Anyone can say whatever they want, but fact is: TAMIYA won the 2002 IFMAR ISTC World Champ race. Don’t need no excuses – The best of the best cars/drivers/equipment were there; the Tamiya topped the finals with TC3 2nd and HPI in 3rd withLosi, Yokomo and Xray all running too. Hey, don’t let me keep blabbing on about it, why not read about it yourself?? http://www.rcracer.com/n00_85.htm
I have nothing against any other car out there and you’ll never catch me saying bad things about others, but I’m 110% sure I wouldn’t want to be sharing the driver’s stand with CHEATS and THIEVES.
I’ll want to win fair-n-square using my own driving skill. If I don’t win and am beaten by a better driver, I’ll congratulate him soundly and go home with my head high. I don’t need to cheat to get ahead, its only a toy car race.
If that’s the “American” way of life, then only God can save ’em.
Quote:Originally posted by lancer_evo on 06November2002um sorry dude but tamya got there ass stomped by the tc3.
Really?
Well, that ain’t how the history books record it.
Do tell, mate!
PRO3 comes in different specs, depending on what country you’re in. Obviously if there is a cheaper version, it won’t have all the goodies. Some versions come with a shell in the box. Some also grey-import, so you’ll need to be sure what you’re getting.
Similarly the TA04 also comes in different flavours:- TA04, TA04S, TA04R and TA04PRO. There is also the world champ TRF414M if you want to go one step further. All Tamiyas (except for the ‘chassis’ only kits) come with an excellent shell – and there is no difference to spec vs where you buy your kit.
The cars are actually designed to totally different philisophies… the TA04 is a “stiff” car with a very stiff chassis, the PRO3 is made as a “floppy” car. Its a personal choice as to which suits your driving style better; Both will perform similarly in the right hands. Considerations as to which you get should include price, your experienceand what you’re using it for.
Bodies are standard RC size 190mm (only gas cars use 200mm); they are definitely interchangeable. Imho Tamiya makes the best detailed & scaled bodies, but HPI comes pretty close (but they take a few liberties as to true car scale eg lower bonnets, roof etc).
FYI, Tamiya *are* TC World Champs this year… :smiley10:
Quote:Originally posted by Shypo on 06November20024 lap timers isnt exaclty going to be cheap, maybe around $100 for them all
I tot the eBay fellas were selling them at ~ US$30-35 each…? So 4 = $140 = A$280… ow, too expensive for limited use.
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