PandaBear

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An “Initial D” Trueno has been spotted cruising Melbourne’s streets. White with black bonnet, usual rice features plus the ‘tofu’ writing on the side. Rego is “AE086”, the asian driver I’m told is a Mod-Toyo Club member.

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Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 05November2002

At least r/c cars dont have insurance, but they have frequent repair costs

Haha, imagine doing the sums for insurance on RC… try premium $5000 pafor a 1/10th and $10,000 pa for a 1/8th, and that’s *with* a no-claims history.

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Aren’t these things just Plug-n-Play?? :smiley5:Thought they were…

Other ‘pro’ arguements being:- (1) don’t wanna make Bill Gates any richer (2) PS2 machine looks a lot damned better standing on its side (3) I like Sony.

Now just a matter of no wastable $$ and no time. Plus I don’t play many video games anyway, I’d rather be doing stuff outside or fixing RC. (My original 1st batch Gameboy is still running on its 1st set of AAs!)

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by ms char-ged on 04November2002

By the way panda, the automodellsitagame on ps2is a really good, i’ve unlocked all the game features and it’s pretty basic to play even though some of the text is japanese, i must have, like your controlling an anime cartoon, just car racing!!!

Good enuff to make me go out and buy a PS2, u think?? :smiley9:

(still tossing up between xBox and PS2…)

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by -ccw- on 06November2002

Also if you have connected a led to the car, have you connected the led around the right way? if not the led can kill itself and creat a short thet will short out your battery

no can do:- LEDs are diodes and they DON’Tconduct if they’re put around the wrong way. (You’ve got a 50:50 chance…:smiley1:if you don’t know what you’re doing.)

But they DO conduct 100% with *minimal* resistance when put on the right way. Chances are, if the LEDs are tapped straight onto the BCG battery and the charger is working fine – then they might be draining all the charge current that’s going in. Thus the battery never gets charged.

If the LEDs are connected to the battery, remove them and see if the car works again.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by -ccw- on 06November2002

…US AF use a bomb that is based on this stuff to take out power station /substation 🙂

Yup, this stuff is pretty flammable… you can feed powered coal into an internal combustion engine (with different carburetion, naturally) and it’ll run too.

I use powered graphite to lubricate locks and my windscreen wiper rubbers. That’s what its usually sold for.

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Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 05November2002

The graphite lube isn’t easy to wipe off, especially between the teeth. Also, i only use the stuff outside, and use it once in a blue moon. I reckon youre just as likely to get cancer from pencils.

Still unclear Jamie – you using graphite *powder* or graphite grease?

Ya, lots of things are carcinogenic these days, the cost ofmodern life. I’m totally suspect of mobile phones, its a prime source – I’d avoid yakking for hours. Its just a matter of which cancer gets you first… :smiley11:

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by GT-ahh on 01November2002

if teflon is non-stick how do they get it to stick to frypans?

Teflon is a plastic compound. Its sprayed on to frypans and it cures on the surface like powdercoating.

Besides it don’t stick very well, I buy the best brands of cookware (Tefal, Meyer etc) and still the coatings only last so long before starting to bubble & peel. Overheating your pan will destroy the coating very quickly.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 05November2002

did you know coca-cola can give you cancer?

Dunno, drink enough of it but I don’t personally swim in the stuff! :smiley3:Guess if you feed much-too-much of it to lab rats, they’d grow cancer too.

I hear Coke makes a pretty good rust remover too, cheaper than Selleys RustFix. Don’t try gargling with Coke though…

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BLUE is harder to find!! :smiley2:Whites usually left behind with the S2000s.

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Quote:

Originally posted by Setanta on 05November2002

I don’t remember seeing 4 band on the box anywhere.

Daniel:- do you mean the 4-bands 27/35/45/57 listed on the box, with just the ‘selected’ one being in colour?

Dunno about you folk, but my Skyline set is 35Mhz not 27; 1.0 motor. (Automodellista is 27.)

[PandaBear]

Haha… its purely adding weight, you don’t need to sacrifice a good rubba just for that. You can use coins (a la PennyRacer) or fishing weights too, anything that you can hang off the tail spoiler.

But me ‘exhaust’ is getting all worn out… :smiley9:

[PandaBear]

is it the TX or the car, Chris?

Do you have another set non-Supra in the same freq, to use for testing?

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Umm… we fully extended a BCG antenna to about 4″ above the car and this handles much worse; it rollover’d at every corner.

The guy with your tallest flag is gonna have an unfair disadvantage. :smiley3:

[PandaBear]

Actually, maybe we should get back to basics first. Your 1st car, right?

Ok, 1st thing:- remove body & yank the 4 tyres off. Make sure the wheels are round and running true. There’s probably some excess molding on the wheels, trim these nicely with a hobbyknife – with this, its better to cut off a ‘bit more’ than to leave any bump at all.

When the tyres are back on, check that they’re been molded correctly too – some are pretty messy and don’t sit right. I’ve had to turn them insideout, and snip away the excess (a nailclipper works great for this).

Hope you’re running on a flat ground too… :smiley2:

The bad thing with the 350Z is that it comes fully assembled, so you don’t know which bits went in. I’d spend 1hr+ (no joke) building each car previously… first thing I did with the Zed was to pull it apart and restart.

[PandaBear]

Huh?

What hangs off, where?

Car or TX?

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Setanta on 04November2002

the dark grey R32 looks smooth as

imho they seem to be mounted sky-high… eg the sideskirts are as high as the axles. Gee, even a Pajero isn’t as high as that in 1:1… certainly not a tarmac shaver.

Think the old R34 looks cuter than the red one.

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Zed has a single-freq “black” controller, it is same size/shape as the standard “silver/G”box except it has an extra ‘boost’ button on top right.

It is *not* the option 4-channel controller which looks like the PS1’s control. This of course also has the ‘boost’ button on it. I’m told the Booster cars cannot be controlled using old/normal controllers; sorry I cannot test this for sure as I don’t have another 57MHz car.

So … any one has any idea why/how this Zed is running faster than normal cars??:smiley3:

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No, Barra XR6 Turbo is pretty cheap on the insurance, only about the same as the XR8. Besides he’s (I’m assuming) an older chappy and probably has a rating 1, so it won’t be too bad.

Supercharged Commodore is also about the same as a SS V8 too… I think I’d rather stick with the V8. Either way, the V8s don’t drink much more than a super/turbo’d six. Local cars are also pretty cheap to fix.

Whereas a young guy with a two-door turbo import … you’re gonna get hit bad!! :smiley11:Most of the insurance companies wouldn’t even dare quote me last time I asked.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris_Flowers on 04November2002

It would have been nice if the boost button did actually give your car a boost over the motors quoted RPM. I don’t suppose its possible though!? Is it!? Can a 3.0 motor at top speed be pushed further?

Have NO idea!! :smiley5:

We just noticed the Zed going faster on the straight than the others… all were running 2.2 motors. So we started pulling it apart, swapped motors etc etc… no difference! Circuit race turned to dragracing…

On an ~8′ straight the Zed on orange gears would end about 3-4 car lengths ahead of the normal orange car. We tried a 2.2 + 8:1 gears too… Zed will outdrag it at the start and then hold its lead whilst the other one spooled up. Then we tried a 2.6 + orange gears… nup, Zed won by 2 lengths.

The other cars were aged anywhere between 2 hrs and 6 weeks, and they all performed pretty identical with their 2.2 + orange. Just the Zed blew them all away.

btw… to be fair we all ran identical white Skyline bodies too, so when I say ‘Zed’ I mean the booster 57Mhz chassis with black wheels.

All Conspiracy theories welcomed!!

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Chris_Flowers on 04November2002

Nice collection. Is that the Nissan Skyline History set? They look sweet! Might have to get those!

No no NO, Chris.

You’re still waiting for your Mini Cooper!! :smiley9:

[PandaBear]

So why don’t ya, Jamie? :smiley2:

How old are you? Schoolage or just about finished? If you’re soon to go to uni, then maybe that might be your chance at FREEDOM too!! That’s always an option, unless you’re too addicted to mum’s cooking.

Had some folks by name of ZitchyWoinarski (yeah, whatta distinctive name!) back in my highschool days… all 5 generations came over to Melb just to study.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Trueno on 30October2002

It’s strange but the booster cars just seem to go sooooooooo well. I love the cars which come with the Auto Modellista set but I don’t like the controller as you needhold down the booster button to go full speed. With the multi controller you can flick a switch and the car goes full speed constantly.

Nothing a piece of gaffatape can’t help, AE…!!

Of course if you didn’t mind hacking up the TX, then a more-permanent solution can be easily found. There’s lots of room to put a little toggle switch that will make it stuck on ‘boost’.

350Z is great!! (heh heh heh)

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Ya, the track is a waste of space… unless you’ve got other plans for it.

You can get the same motor and stuff in a A$24 KIT car kit anyway, why buy the track set just for the ‘special’ body style?

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Bunnings should have a foam section… they sell seat cushions and foam mattresses etc. You can get thin opencell foam there.

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