ph2t
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Sounds cool prez, take some pics man if you could.
cheers,
ph2t.ms char-ged, great work man, I love it!
ph2t.
lol dude, no sweats man. Will hopefully start trying a different design tonight. The other design has issues with timing between the red and blue lights. more to come…..
ph2t.
That would be cool if you could. I’m having trouble finding the light casing that sits on top of the cop car.
ph2t.
I would say seperate antennas, especially for the TX’s. But hey the best thing to do is just try it and see what happens…..
ph2t.
Yet to see this initial D, prolly won’t come to aussie shores for a while. Mind you even if it was here I prolly wouldn’t know, lol….
I am a big Manga fan though from my earlier days. Gawd those japanese created some fucky sh1at!
ph2t.
One word, guitar string. You can’t go wrong. Everyone can argue theory till the cows come home. At the end of the day
cause-and-effect is the best way of finding what is best.Here’s some info I posted on another forum:
Guitar String, hell yeah I’m sure…It’s the best antenna in my mind…
1) The antenna is tensile, you can hit obstacles and not worry about it bending, it always retains it’s shape.
2) The antenna is always straight, at 90 degress to the ground. The more right-angled the antenna is to the ground the better reception you get and therefore a longer range is achieved.
3) Looks better, you can hardly see it.
4) With this antenna I’ve achieved an avg 11 meters indoors and over 20 meters outside. (that’s 33′ and 60′ respectively). This includes removing the crip-cap from the car(if it’s there) and tuning the variable inductor on the RX pcb.
5) It’s lighter than CAT5, therefore the moments(interia on the antenna) generated by this length of antenna is less than a CAT5 antenna of same length. This means better balance across the four wheels.
Below is a tutorial I wrote up for a ZipZap SE, the principle is the same though.
Pretty much all you need to do is goto a music store and ask for a Number 9 electric guitar string. If they ask more questions just ask for the “bottom E” the lightest string on the electric guitar.
You need to pull apart the zzse and remove the rear plastic “knob” that holds the pcb down. You will also need to remove the front plastic facia that covers the pcb there as well.
Remove the old antenna and notice where the solder point is. What you want to do is “pre-bend” the string to follow the path of the original yellow (mine was yellow) antenna. See below:

Before bending I put some plastic wire sheath from some hobby wire over the string. I dip the end of the string is a tiny bit of superglue and then feed the wire into the sheath. This allows the plastic cover to stick to the wire and then you can bend it to the shape you need as shown in the picture above.
The following pic gives you an idea of the length, approx 12cm.

Make sure you put a protective cover over the end of the string or at least curl the end around to protect your eyes!

The final pic below shows you how I ran the antenna though the hole of the plastic holder knob thingy……

Hope this works for you. This mod increased the range of my zzse bigtime!
ph2t.
Good to see your still around man….:smiley16:
ph2t.
nice little setup there man, like the rims on the beetle.
ph2t.
Oh and Bithed, please add to the toolkit
“an extra 8 hours a day for your obsession” addon. I’m sure a lot of us could use that.:approve:
ph2t.
hmmm, someones got the bug…..:approve:
there’s no stopping you merc is there….you work in the public service or sumthin’ ?
ph2t.
Bithed, two things are essential.
1) Bluetac!
2) The “Bit Tool” that comes in the GS-xx body kits.
ph2t.
Quote:hells yea I would love to see thatAll the ones I have seen never had wotking lights
But I am still holding out for the ph2t version I wanna have a option with the controller to turn them on.
lol dude, didn’t know the spec had changed all of a sudden. Does anyone know if this extra controller channel is on the LXX clones as well?
ph2t.
Cool, take some video if you can mate.
ph2t.
Been so busy I’m still yet to do squat with my alloys. It should be a crime to have alloys and not show them off…..

Cool, so those lights on the top alternate flashing? Do they strobe as well or just go red,blue,red,blue, etc….
hey micro, didn’t you score some of those rims? From those hotwheels sets?
ph2t.
You got a link dude?
I know that the colour tyre set has sticker tyres than the non-coloured tyre set. As to the C value I don’t know.
ph2t.
You know that you could look at doing a flat chassis design. One based on a similar design as a mini-z chassis. I dunno the terminology they use but that type of chassis is called something.
ph2t.
No worries man. I’ve been busy as lately with my companies AD migration. This has meant bugger all sleeep and no time to do squat(and any time left is wifey time:blush:). I’ve been sorta away from the forums the last couple of weeks. This project is still active though so rest assured that in the next 10 years I’ll get it done, lol….
ph2t.
yup! A 2.2 it is. The original Japanese BCG boxes tell you the motor spec on the box, unfortunately the Aussie CCG don’t.
I believe they are all released in Australia with 2.2’s though.
ph2t.
Nice man, very nice…..:p
ph2t.
Actually dude the diode on the pcb IS used for the voltage boost circuit. Trust me, I’ve done the measurements and the research for this. The DCDC convertor used is ME301 and there is a 220uH inductor on the board (axial type) also there is a 100uF 6V electrolytic cap on the board as well.
During various mods I’ve actually broken the diode on the board and substituted it with another diode no sweats. You should use a shottky based one for it’s reduced voltage drop.
The NCP1402 circuit pictured above is the one I use to convert the 1.2V rail from the NiCd and boost it to 5V. From this I’ve been able to run 5 LEDs. 2 White, 2 Blue, 2 Red and 1 Yellow. Yeah!

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