ph2t
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No worries man. I’ve been busy as lately with my companies AD migration. This has meant bugger all sleeep and no time to do squat(and any time left is wifey time:blush:). I’ve been sorta away from the forums the last couple of weeks. This project is still active though so rest assured that in the next 10 years I’ll get it done, lol….
ph2t.
yup! A 2.2 it is. The original Japanese BCG boxes tell you the motor spec on the box, unfortunately the Aussie CCG don’t.
I believe they are all released in Australia with 2.2’s though.
ph2t.
Nice man, very nice…..:p
ph2t.
Actually dude the diode on the pcb IS used for the voltage boost circuit. Trust me, I’ve done the measurements and the research for this. The DCDC convertor used is ME301 and there is a 220uH inductor on the board (axial type) also there is a 100uF 6V electrolytic cap on the board as well.
During various mods I’ve actually broken the diode on the board and substituted it with another diode no sweats. You should use a shottky based one for it’s reduced voltage drop.
The NCP1402 circuit pictured above is the one I use to convert the 1.2V rail from the NiCd and boost it to 5V. From this I’ve been able to run 5 LEDs. 2 White, 2 Blue, 2 Red and 1 Yellow. Yeah!

man, this is the thread that never ends…..:smiley2:
Here’s a painted R32 shell on a BCG chassis. Just fine lookin’.

ph2t.
betty, I would go the full monty and get some mosfets to power that bugger. Don’t just limit yourself to the standard ones made popular by the german’s fet mod. Use some more powerfull ones. As long as they have the propper “turn on” voltage you will be sweet. You could then run the motor circuit off a higher voltage and really toast those tamyia motors, yeah!
As to replacement transistors on the PCB, just pull the spare ones of another pcb, or order some as free samples from http://www.onsemi.com. You could try the MMBT2222 as a replacement for the NPN ones and the MMBT3906 for the PNP. These are surface mount versions of some standard and popular small signal switching transistors…
ph2t.
betty, some hints n tips.
Leds have different ON voltages, they vary with colour. Here’s some ballpark figures (all approx values of course):
Red = 2V
Yellow = 2.2V
Green = 2.2V
Blue = 3.5V – 4.0V
White = 3.6V – 4.0VWhat you will find is that the ON voltage is generally linked to the intensity (brightness, measured in mini-candelas, or mcd) for the LEDS. Most blue and white leds are classed as high intensity (> 1000 mcd) hence the operating votlage for these LEDS is higher.
The average driving current for most of these LEDs is around 20mA – 30mA. You achieve this current by putting a resistor in series with the LED.
Here’s a usefull equation to help calculate all the bits involved:
R = (E-Vf) * 1000/I
R = Value of the resistor (in Ohms)
E = Source voltage of the circuit
Vf = ON voltage of the LED
I = Current across the LED (in mA).So for a 3V circuit using a Red LED, what is the value of the resistor?
Well you know from the datasheet that the Red LED in question needs 20mA to run and has an ON voltage of 2V.
Therefore:
E = 3V, Vf = 2V, I = 20mA
R = (3 – 2) * 1000/20
R = 1 * 50
R = 50 OhmsThe E24 value for R would be then 47 Ohms. (resistors only come in set values and ranges, this does change with the tolerances though, here I’m quoting standard 5% carbon values).
Hope this doesn’t confuse too much an helps you out.
Just go and buy a Dick Smith Catalogue, it has lots of usefull techo crap in the back like this info.
ph2t.
Fellas, to add some info:
In the receiver circuit for these cars is a DCDC convertor. The DCDC convertor is used to increase the voltage from 1.2V to 3V. The IC on the receiver pcb needs at least 2.something volts to work so that’s why it’s there.
You will notice on the unside of the pcb a little orange glass canister thingy. This is shown in the right of the picture below:

This is a diode, in particular it is probably either a gernanium (spelling?) or schottky diode. These have a lower voltage loss (as trash was eluding to earlier) than your normal silicon diodes. So instead of 0.7V, you are looking at approx 0.2V to 0.5V drop with these diodes.
Why do they use these types of diodes? We’ll it’s all about loss and minimising this. If you are using a silicon diode in the DCDC convertor circuit then you would have more loss and therefore it would be harder to maintain a higher output voltage than if you were to use a lower loss diode.
Below is a picture of a DCDC convertor circuit. This circuit is NOT the exact model of what’s on the BCG circuit but it is close.

You can see the diode in this circuit, it is this symbol
.ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 16 November 2003 11:34:07
Edited by – ph2t on 16 November 2003 11:36:23
Quote:I don’t like gunpowder ph2t. It burns too slow !
Think 4500fps or faster !Dude, you gotta get the quick burning stuff. Besides it’s all about presure, steel wool, and a really long cable……..oh yeah and a 9V battery to get the party happening!
ph2t.
Quote:Ahhh fireworks….damn they were fun. Until some dickhead decided to ban them!! Now we gotta find other illegal stuff to have fun with:shock:GUNPOWDER!
ph2t.
It’s easier to pull something than push it. This would explain the better performance when the batteries are close to dead.
ph2t.
just to be a bastard here betty, current actually starts at – and moves toward +. Figure that out!
Anyways to your problem:
These motors, where do they connect to? The original PCB from the toy car you pulled apart? If so my bet is that you won’t be able to run the motor in the config above? Why? Because the motor never gets to the Vcc (+ volt rail), it’s switched through two transistors, see below:
In the image above the motor changes direction depending on the current path across it. Red is one path, blue is the other…(ignore the green blocks…)
If you could find where Q6/Q7 in the diagram connect to the Vcc rail you could isolate this and run it at 6V. This way you wold still have the RF circuit and RX chip running at 3V and have the 6V source only tapped into the h-bridge(the pic above) which drives the motor direction.
ph2t.
Yes it’s true from what I’ve been told. Dude if you can get some surface mount lights get them. They sh1t all over the 3mm and 5mm LED varieties….
ph2t.
geez bithed, now you’re sounding like a 14 year old, ouch! :approve:
sounds good, any pics man?
ph2t.
not really, you just learn that you don’t need to go all the way fwd or revt anymore but you can be more selective. What would help is a longer handle though, for sure. Bloody big hands…..
ph2t.
yeah, that’s the bugger with internal daul cells,

ph2t.
lol micro, you don’t want one of those babies bustin up whilst 100m off the ground, doh!
ph2t.
mercblue: the antenna is made from guitar string, simple as. Do a search for “guitar string antenna” in BCG Tech.
barto: the horseshoe is the fwd/rev throttle. pull the trigger towards you in accels fwd. push the trigger away from you and it accels in rev.
mscharged: no the lights don’t close man, they’re stuck up permanently:dead:. a mate over at bitpimps hooked me up 🙂
SMP: there’s great potential for a lot of mods on this car. I want to get some new shells and re-sit the lights properly, lower the shell/chassis (it sits awfully high), etc..
monkeyboy: the steering isn’t that bad, I haven’t “fixed” my steering yet and it’s not that big a deal. but to be correct, yes this “twitch” does exist.
Prez: thanks man, but screw that crappy cartoon music, unless it’s Warner Bros of course!:approve:
ph2t.
dude, you’d be loosing traction at that angle way before loosing any power…..
ph2t.
I’ve prostituted myself to get some addons, hopefully will have some in a few weeks :p.
ph2t.
merc, start writing in ENGLISH! for @#$% sake! It’s getting harder to understand your posts man!
You don’t wan’t me to “poll” your arse…. trust me……:angry:
ph2t.
bloody politician!
Quote:Its nice to see someone into the hobby like that.This is meant to read as: “What a loser!” lol…:p
ph2t.
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