ph2t

[ph2t]

another reason why I CUT the mosfets off with a stanley/hobby knife before doing anything. this way the net overall time that the pads hace been exposed to heat is less…..

[ph2t]

I reakon it’s an N20 sized motor. See here:

http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/forumdisplay.php?f=76

[ph2t]

See the recent templestowe thread for pics of the MX-3S I use. 🙂

A small update. Got a chance to really open her up on the weekend as shown in the temp’ thread. Also had time to try out the lipoly setup.

I was keen to get it going since all I have to do is put the lipoly in the tray and plug it in. Since I’m running hobby grade RX/ESC/Servo, the need to regulate the voltage and all that crap is sorted with the BEC part of the ESC.

And the lipos fit like a dream to into the battery bays, with only a little modding need on the battery clips themselves, nothing else!

Again, I’m seeing power dumping problems. I’ve got a 27t handwound in there and it’s quite fast. On four cells it seems OK but on lipo I’m getting major “dumping” of the batts. I’m not sure what it is but the ESC may not be handling it all.

It s strange. I’m not getting the same kind of problem that I had when running the GWS plane ESC, ie: the steering is still smooth with no issues in this revision. So it’s got to be something with the ESC.

I may change out the Robitronic ESC’s MOSFET with the higher performing Nelly ones. But I need to analise the signals on the ESC first and do some datasheet reading to find out if it’s feasible.

At the end of the day, that may not solve the problem 🙁

On 4 cells it’s sweet. So it’s still ok for wiping the floor with Betty’s ’02. lol….

[ph2t]

If it’s from main-iac motors, then it’s most likely like the old 35t motors from minizworkshop. (they supply main-iac motors).

It’s a good motor with lots of torque. A respectable high speed too. Although not as fast as the Pn Anima, but close!

Current drain under no load is approx 600mA – 800mA @ 2.4V.

One thing though. I have noticed just recently under lipoly power and a 27turn motor that the Robitronic seems to “dump” the power prematurely, so I’m a bit concerned on it’s performance under higer voltage (> 4 cells) setups.

See more info in my 40Mhz FM thread….

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Excellent! You won’t be dissapointed mate! Hobby Japan (after Aaron 🙂 ) rules!!!!

[ph2t]

lol, that’s what I like to hear!

actually most people are satisfied with the (relatively) fast speeds you can get with 4 cells + turbo + hot motor….

here’s some other lithium modded Z’s to grab inspiration from, lol….

http://www.xmoding.com/ftopict-1432-.html

http://p221.ezboard.com/fxmodrcfrm41.showMessage?topicID=35.topic

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

kevsta wrote:

It’s quite hard to find MR01/MR02 gear these days on ebay…

Mate, you obviously haven’t seen Hobby Japan!

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Hobby-Japan_Kyosho-R-C_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ13QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I strongly reccomend them. They have a LOT of Kyosho only Mini-z parts (did you know there’s 60deg tyres?? lol…), across mr01, mr02, mr-015 and ma-010.

Cheap(ish) & fast shipping straight from Japan too!

They’ve eaten through my wallet a few times….:)

@SIMid, don’t worry. Aaron will get back to you I’m sure. He’s a very trustworthy bloke.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’m shit mate. Betty is better…..

And the bloke running the Corally chassis pwned all of us! lol…

[ph2t]

they’re not the most popular thing….

[ph2t]

I had the 6609’s in arly version of my v1.2 model. I had to solder wires to the underside pads. It was bloody awfull! Hence I stayed away from them in the long run.

There’s a few out there. They (6609’s) worked like a charm. Handled the high current really well to. The rate of change in hear dissipation on them was 2nd to none. A quick pump on the throttle from fwd -> rev -> fwd again woulf give ’em a little burst of heat and you could feel it! that’s how well that type of packaging (DirectFET??) worked….

You can buy IRF7456’s from ww.irf.com directly. Perhaps try http://www.rsaustralia.com as well…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

lol….

allow me to retort….

1) looks like your jitters were signal/range based. the increase in voltage will introduce them again, but a little more subtle, and stil controllable. You may most likely find an INCREASE in range with the increase in voltage.

2) http://www.trickrc.com hand them I think, can’t get ’em anywhere but the net mate.

3) Try it out and see how you go. The worse thing that cna happen is that they bomb out from too much current draw.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Hey Klims. Here’s some pointers mate.

1) Mini-z’s will work out of the box with lithiums but the steering will be a bit jittery. This is due to the increase voltage driving the steering motor and the eletronics not conditioned to control it at this speed.

2) Polyquest 600mAh lipos fit into a mr-02 with no problems. Hell you don’t even have to remove the battery prongs. Only need to trim the underside of the battery holders so to not damage the lipos. (see my templestowe vid just posted)

3) AAA 300mAh liths are not bad, just don’t run any motors less then 35 turns (approx) with them. This is just to ensure the longevity of the liths. Even at 35 turns you’re still most likely to draw more than the rated current.

4) atomicmods.com has 450mAh lipo cells that should fit fine as well. I say this since the polyquests are bloody rare to come buy.

5) be carefull running turbos on higher voltages. This isn’t a limitation in the turbo so to speak (nelly EVO & Spider 2.x) but a limitation on how the MOSFETS are driven by the ‘Z PCB. you should be OK, just keep above 35 turns as a starting point.

6) traction traction traction! Get foams on the rear dude. Otherwise don’t even bother with an upgrade. (pm me if you want custom foams made to a special offset, otherwise get the gandini’s from the ausmicro shop, bloody great RTR foams, betty and I used them for ages before I spent too much $$ on the tyre truer).

7) Using the AAA li-ions will require the wiring on the battery layout to be changed to make it into a 2s2p arrangement. That makes the setup 7.2V @ 700mAh. Given this, you then can’t (easily) change back to 4 cell nimh if you wanted to.

I’ve listed a lot of points but I’m sure it’s not too hard to go through.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’ve got 2.71, are you now saying that IU can homebrew without needing to stuff around with the GTA disk or downgraders?????

z-beam/panda/kero, you fellas interested on movies for the PSP? I’ve converted a fair few “backup copies” that I then watch on the way to work.

Rule of thumb though, don’t watch comedies on the train the work, you’ll look like a real dickhead laughing out loud for no apparent reason, been there, done that! lol….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Not sure. I may be wrong. Just a quick look now and it’s hard to find a manufacturer that makes the LM339 in the MSSOP-14 package that it comes in on the V2.x

[ph2t]

Hey thumper. To answer your questions….

The chip that has it’s face scratched off is an LM339 comparator. It’s used on the V2 to recreate the circuit signal into a “4 signal” composite to drive the MOSFET h-bridge on the V2. It’s this part of the design that allows the use of the motor terminals to get the signal.

Sorry mate, ain’t gonna post a schematic of the deluxe. If you follow the datasheets though on the “typical use” schematics of the MAX627CSA MOSFET driver you should be able to figure it out mate. 🙂

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Rs………

[ph2t]

aussiexmodder wrote:

I use a dick smith 30watt soldering iron for ally needs. It was only bout $20

same here :), god knows how many nellys it has made, lol….

But I’m looking at something like this now:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&item=230007425688&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Not too shabby for $150…..

I guess in the end, whatever sodering iron you use, the MOST important part is to maintain the tip of the soldering iron. Always keep it clean, NEVER use it to melt plastic (that screws the tip up longterm), and re-tin it often. Then it almost doesn’t matter if it cost you $15 or $150…..

ph2t.,

[ph2t]

Well on my mini-z :

http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14062

I’m running a 35turn pn saber and it’s not even warm. So you should be fine. With a rating of 10A you may find the mosfets get warm, but not blow.

cheers,

ph2t,.

[ph2t]

klim, pdqmods is an excellent source for ZZ and XMOD stuff. I reccomend him. Prices are good and service is prompt….The pricing you see is close to the same as RadioShack retail in the US.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Aaron wrote:

http://www.ausuncovered.com[/url%5D

A.

clicked on that link at the wrong time at work this morning…… lol….

[ph2t]

Sanyo’s are one of THE best AAA’s out there.

I had 3 sets of 800mAh that I used to abuse almost daily, lol….

They now go in the baby monitor and I’m using the PN Racing 800’s, Duracell 850’s and a single set of ATOMIC 900’s.

I think the best punch cells are still at the 800 – 850 mark. The 900 and 1000mAh cells limit their internal resistance a bit to allow you to get the high capacity and runtimes. I dunno. There IS a limit to nimh technology still and the energy densities involved…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

so when to they change from being Bengal kittens to Bengal tigers?????

[ph2t]

lol, thanks Dave.

Yes, the MOSFETS can be upgraded and I will do this soon.

[ph2t]

dang klims, we had an impromptu meet there today for a couple of hours. Was testing out me 40mhz conversion Z.

Had a few mishaps, betty actually BENT his rear axle! Couldn’t bloody believe it.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

OK, the plane ESC was a good first mod, but not having reverse and the fact that the brake kicked in when I would come back to neutral on the TX was giving me the shits. IF you saw the mr02 video I posted not long ago you will see my car (the enzo) kick around the corners in a knee jerk sort of fashion. This was due to the brake issue.

So in the end I upgraded to a real car ESC. But this had it’s challenges. A lot of the micro ESCs on the market are two PCB’s sandwiched together in a (relatively) compact case. The problem here (when it’s decased) is that it has a very “tall” profile making it impossible to fit within the mini-z chassis.

Both the Novak SPY ESC and the AE Micro ESC (comes on the RC18T/B/MT cars) are very tall in their profile and I would of needed to of mounted them high up front which I didn’t want to do.

So I had my eye on the little known Robitronic ESC.

This bugger is small. Only a single PCB size and compact dimensions made this ESC the one for me!

Here are the specs from the Robitronic website.

• Input Voltage: 4 – 8 cells
• Forward, intelligent proportional brake and reverse operation
• “Smart detection” circuit for brake and reverse control
• Pre-wired with micro-style connectors for battery and motor
• Direct soldering tabs for easy rewiring
• Dimensions (of case): 22.7 x 22.5 x 5.9 mm
• Max. Current: 10 Amp
• Weight: 11g

Here it is decased.

It wasn’t hard to attach. I just soldered the 3 wire signal loop from the RX to the ESC and soldered the power and white motor wires as well..

The key here was to orientate it the right way up so I had access to the programming button..

Here’s some more pics showing the detail.

And of course, it’s all in the chassis!

So I’m happy with it. Testing will happen today at betty’s track and we’ll see how she goes….

ph2t.

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