ph2t

[ph2t]

Excellent! You won’t be dissapointed mate! Hobby Japan (after Aaron 🙂 ) rules!!!!

[ph2t]

lol, that’s what I like to hear!

actually most people are satisfied with the (relatively) fast speeds you can get with 4 cells + turbo + hot motor….

here’s some other lithium modded Z’s to grab inspiration from, lol….

http://www.xmoding.com/ftopict-1432-.html

http://p221.ezboard.com/fxmodrcfrm41.showMessage?topicID=35.topic

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

kevsta wrote:

It’s quite hard to find MR01/MR02 gear these days on ebay…

Mate, you obviously haven’t seen Hobby Japan!

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Hobby-Japan_Kyosho-R-C_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ13QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I strongly reccomend them. They have a LOT of Kyosho only Mini-z parts (did you know there’s 60deg tyres?? lol…), across mr01, mr02, mr-015 and ma-010.

Cheap(ish) & fast shipping straight from Japan too!

They’ve eaten through my wallet a few times….:)

@SIMid, don’t worry. Aaron will get back to you I’m sure. He’s a very trustworthy bloke.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’m shit mate. Betty is better…..

And the bloke running the Corally chassis pwned all of us! lol…

[ph2t]

they’re not the most popular thing….

[ph2t]

I had the 6609’s in arly version of my v1.2 model. I had to solder wires to the underside pads. It was bloody awfull! Hence I stayed away from them in the long run.

There’s a few out there. They (6609’s) worked like a charm. Handled the high current really well to. The rate of change in hear dissipation on them was 2nd to none. A quick pump on the throttle from fwd -> rev -> fwd again woulf give ’em a little burst of heat and you could feel it! that’s how well that type of packaging (DirectFET??) worked….

You can buy IRF7456’s from ww.irf.com directly. Perhaps try http://www.rsaustralia.com as well…..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

lol….

allow me to retort….

1) looks like your jitters were signal/range based. the increase in voltage will introduce them again, but a little more subtle, and stil controllable. You may most likely find an INCREASE in range with the increase in voltage.

2) http://www.trickrc.com hand them I think, can’t get ’em anywhere but the net mate.

3) Try it out and see how you go. The worse thing that cna happen is that they bomb out from too much current draw.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Hey Klims. Here’s some pointers mate.

1) Mini-z’s will work out of the box with lithiums but the steering will be a bit jittery. This is due to the increase voltage driving the steering motor and the eletronics not conditioned to control it at this speed.

2) Polyquest 600mAh lipos fit into a mr-02 with no problems. Hell you don’t even have to remove the battery prongs. Only need to trim the underside of the battery holders so to not damage the lipos. (see my templestowe vid just posted)

3) AAA 300mAh liths are not bad, just don’t run any motors less then 35 turns (approx) with them. This is just to ensure the longevity of the liths. Even at 35 turns you’re still most likely to draw more than the rated current.

4) atomicmods.com has 450mAh lipo cells that should fit fine as well. I say this since the polyquests are bloody rare to come buy.

5) be carefull running turbos on higher voltages. This isn’t a limitation in the turbo so to speak (nelly EVO & Spider 2.x) but a limitation on how the MOSFETS are driven by the ‘Z PCB. you should be OK, just keep above 35 turns as a starting point.

6) traction traction traction! Get foams on the rear dude. Otherwise don’t even bother with an upgrade. (pm me if you want custom foams made to a special offset, otherwise get the gandini’s from the ausmicro shop, bloody great RTR foams, betty and I used them for ages before I spent too much $$ on the tyre truer).

7) Using the AAA li-ions will require the wiring on the battery layout to be changed to make it into a 2s2p arrangement. That makes the setup 7.2V @ 700mAh. Given this, you then can’t (easily) change back to 4 cell nimh if you wanted to.

I’ve listed a lot of points but I’m sure it’s not too hard to go through.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’ve got 2.71, are you now saying that IU can homebrew without needing to stuff around with the GTA disk or downgraders?????

z-beam/panda/kero, you fellas interested on movies for the PSP? I’ve converted a fair few “backup copies” that I then watch on the way to work.

Rule of thumb though, don’t watch comedies on the train the work, you’ll look like a real dickhead laughing out loud for no apparent reason, been there, done that! lol….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Not sure. I may be wrong. Just a quick look now and it’s hard to find a manufacturer that makes the LM339 in the MSSOP-14 package that it comes in on the V2.x

[ph2t]

Hey thumper. To answer your questions….

The chip that has it’s face scratched off is an LM339 comparator. It’s used on the V2 to recreate the circuit signal into a “4 signal” composite to drive the MOSFET h-bridge on the V2. It’s this part of the design that allows the use of the motor terminals to get the signal.

Sorry mate, ain’t gonna post a schematic of the deluxe. If you follow the datasheets though on the “typical use” schematics of the MAX627CSA MOSFET driver you should be able to figure it out mate. 🙂

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Rs………

[ph2t]

aussiexmodder wrote:

I use a dick smith 30watt soldering iron for ally needs. It was only bout $20

same here :), god knows how many nellys it has made, lol….

But I’m looking at something like this now:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&item=230007425688&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Not too shabby for $150…..

I guess in the end, whatever sodering iron you use, the MOST important part is to maintain the tip of the soldering iron. Always keep it clean, NEVER use it to melt plastic (that screws the tip up longterm), and re-tin it often. Then it almost doesn’t matter if it cost you $15 or $150…..

ph2t.,

[ph2t]

Well on my mini-z :

http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14062

I’m running a 35turn pn saber and it’s not even warm. So you should be fine. With a rating of 10A you may find the mosfets get warm, but not blow.

cheers,

ph2t,.

[ph2t]

klim, pdqmods is an excellent source for ZZ and XMOD stuff. I reccomend him. Prices are good and service is prompt….The pricing you see is close to the same as RadioShack retail in the US.

cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Aaron wrote:

http://www.ausuncovered.com[/url%5D

A.

clicked on that link at the wrong time at work this morning…… lol….

[ph2t]

Sanyo’s are one of THE best AAA’s out there.

I had 3 sets of 800mAh that I used to abuse almost daily, lol….

They now go in the baby monitor and I’m using the PN Racing 800’s, Duracell 850’s and a single set of ATOMIC 900’s.

I think the best punch cells are still at the 800 – 850 mark. The 900 and 1000mAh cells limit their internal resistance a bit to allow you to get the high capacity and runtimes. I dunno. There IS a limit to nimh technology still and the energy densities involved…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

so when to they change from being Bengal kittens to Bengal tigers?????

[ph2t]

lol, thanks Dave.

Yes, the MOSFETS can be upgraded and I will do this soon.

[ph2t]

dang klims, we had an impromptu meet there today for a couple of hours. Was testing out me 40mhz conversion Z.

Had a few mishaps, betty actually BENT his rear axle! Couldn’t bloody believe it.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

OK, the plane ESC was a good first mod, but not having reverse and the fact that the brake kicked in when I would come back to neutral on the TX was giving me the shits. IF you saw the mr02 video I posted not long ago you will see my car (the enzo) kick around the corners in a knee jerk sort of fashion. This was due to the brake issue.

So in the end I upgraded to a real car ESC. But this had it’s challenges. A lot of the micro ESCs on the market are two PCB’s sandwiched together in a (relatively) compact case. The problem here (when it’s decased) is that it has a very “tall” profile making it impossible to fit within the mini-z chassis.

Both the Novak SPY ESC and the AE Micro ESC (comes on the RC18T/B/MT cars) are very tall in their profile and I would of needed to of mounted them high up front which I didn’t want to do.

So I had my eye on the little known Robitronic ESC.

This bugger is small. Only a single PCB size and compact dimensions made this ESC the one for me!

Here are the specs from the Robitronic website.

• Input Voltage: 4 – 8 cells
• Forward, intelligent proportional brake and reverse operation
• “Smart detection” circuit for brake and reverse control
• Pre-wired with micro-style connectors for battery and motor
• Direct soldering tabs for easy rewiring
• Dimensions (of case): 22.7 x 22.5 x 5.9 mm
• Max. Current: 10 Amp
• Weight: 11g

Here it is decased.

It wasn’t hard to attach. I just soldered the 3 wire signal loop from the RX to the ESC and soldered the power and white motor wires as well..

The key here was to orientate it the right way up so I had access to the programming button..

Here’s some more pics showing the detail.

And of course, it’s all in the chassis!

So I’m happy with it. Testing will happen today at betty’s track and we’ll see how she goes….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

OK, I’ve had a lot of success with the Stacked Nelly turbo. I never realised so many people want to run < 20 turn motors!! You're all crazy! haha…

What I’ve found is that whilst stacking the MOSFETS on top of each other was the easy way to go, there’s a few design challenges.

1) If a MOSFET fries, it can be tricky to repair (given the stacked setup) and I may need to destroy a perfectly good MOSFET to get to the fried one.

2) Heating in the stack is additive, ie: MOSFET on top of MOSFET, not MOSFET -> air. Whilst heating isn’t a huge issue (ie: ’cause of high current rating of the turbo), some people run some crazy hot setups (3S lipo + 20turn or 2S lipo + 15 turn, etc, etc…) and I gotta account for that.

3) Stacking MOFSETs is essentially quite a messy job. Takes time to do and time to “tweak”. You need to bend MOSFET pins and the labour (from my point of view) is just too much….

4) I found on a 3S lipoly + 27 turn (plasmatomic) setup that I acutally fried one the copper tracks on the Nelly PCB!!! Yes, a solid 2-3mm copper track just fried under the current load in a 3S lipo + plasmatomic setup (in an AWD EVO running around a parking lot…).

So I’ve now just simply increased the size of the PCB and layed all the MOSFETS out flat!!! A simple change that has increased the size of the Nelly PCB, but it’s still under half the size of the V2.x .

Here’s a pic showing the changes to the PCB. The new Stacked Nelly EVO PCB is on the left, the original Nelly EVO PCB is on the RIGHT.

Notice that the high current copper tracks are a lock thicker in the new design. To do this I had to remove the motor solder pads off the end of the EVO PCB, but that’s no big a deal. As you can see this setup is really intended for all the nutter’s out there with low turn motors, lol…

Here’s another picture showing the orientation of the power wires and the typical 4 signal wires that goto the xmod/mini-z/iwaver RX PCB.

I’m still undecided on the final wiring layout. This will do for now, since I still need to cover the Nelly in the clear heatshrink that Ilike to use, so the wires need to be able to come out each side for this….I’m also experimenting with some custom heatsinks as well…

And here’s a closeup of the Stacked Nelly PCB itself…

Sweeeeeeeeet……

Operating Limits:

Max current: 30A
Max Voltage: 20V (Actual true limit dictated by RX, eg kyosho PCB 7.4V, EVO PCB 11.1V)

This has been tested on a 11.1V 3S Lipoy setup running the MinizWorkshop 15t Motor(running no load). Ran cool with no problems. I will be testing this setup in an EVO chassis soon. Just don’t have time at the moment….

Will be avilable to purchase from my site and others soon!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

OK, I’ve had a lot of success with the Stacked Nelly turbo. I never realised so many people want to run < 20 turn motors!! You're all crazy! haha…

What I’ve found is that whilst stacking the MOSFETS on top of each other was the easy way to go, there’s a few design challenges.

1) If a MOSFET fries, it can be tricky to repair (given the stacked setup) and I may need to destroy a perfectly good MOSFET to get to the fried one.

2) Heating in the stack is additive, ie: MOSFET on top of MOSFET, not MOSFET -> air. Whilst heating isn’t a huge issue (ie: ’cause of high current rating of the turbo), some people run some crazy hot setups (3S lipo + 20turn or 2S lipo + 15 turn, etc, etc…) and I gotta account for that.

3) Stacking MOFSETs is essentially quite a messy job. Takes time to do and time to “tweak”. You need to bend MOSFET pins and the labour (from my point of view) is just too much….

4) I found on a 3S lipoly + 27 turn (plasmatomic) setup that I acutally fried one the copper tracks on the Nelly PCB!!! Yes, a solid 2-3mm copper track just fried under the current load in a 3S lipo + plasmatomic setup (in an AWD EVO running around a parking lot…).

So I’ve now just simply increased the size of the PCB and layed all the MOSFETS out flat!!! A simple change that has increased the size of the Nelly PCB, but it’s still under half the size of the V2.x .

Here’s a pic showing the changes to the PCB. The new Stacked Nelly EVO PCB is on the left, the original Nelly EVO PCB is on the RIGHT.

Notice that the high current copper tracks are a lock thicker in the new design. To do this I had to remove the motor solder pads off the end of the EVO PCB, but that’s no big a deal. As you can see this setup is really intended for all the nutter’s out there with low turn motors, lol…

Here’s another picture showing the orientation of the power wires and the typical 4 signal wires that goto the xmod/mini-z/iwaver RX PCB.

I’m still undecided on the final wiring layout. This will do for now, since I still need to cover the Nelly in the clear heatshrink that Ilike to use, so the wires need to be able to come out each side for this….I’m also experimenting with some custom heatsinks as well…

And here’s a closeup of the Stacked Nelly PCB itself…

Sweeeeeeeeet……

Operating Limits:

Max current: 30A
Max Voltage: 20V (Actual true limit dictated by RX, eg kyosho PCB 7.4V, EVO PCB 11.1V)

This has been tested on a 11.1V 3S Lipoy setup running the MinizWorkshop 15t Motor(running no load). Ran cool with no problems. I will be testing this setup in an EVO chassis soon. Just don’t have time at the moment….

Will be avilable to purchase from my site and others soon!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

nerd…….

[ph2t]

@kero, mine broke in the same place!!! And broke the other day again too! That’s a good tip I will do.

@tada, if you’re racing the AWD outside on concrete then I strongly suggest the cambered knuckles for your next purchase. At least the 3.0 Deg ones.

Also look at wider offset wheels. I use 1.5 on teh front and 3.0 on teh rear.

The camber and the offsets made my AWD usable on concrete. I highly suggest those upgrades mate. Oh and of course a nelly or a spider and a pn SABER motor…..

You can get the spider turbo and the pn saber motor from the ausmicro shop. http://shop.ausmicro.net 🙂 See my sig if you want to get a nelly.

ph2t.

[Author]

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