ph2t
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diehard, I’ev gota couple of thing I want to buy as well. If you’re not comfortable with it we could do a mini “group order” and save on shipping a bit. let us knwo if you wish to go down this path.
cheers,
ph2t.henal, the li-ons that are widely used in this scale can’t handle the current drain of hot motors in the <33 turn range. the plasmatomic is too hot and causes the li-ions to dump out very quickly and die.
go lipoly or 4-6 cell nimh. they’re the only ones that will sustain the high current drain (up to and over 8A at times) that the plasmatomic will pull under load.
here are some lipoly packs that may fit. they are approx 20-25mm wide and will fit in the AAA bays on each side of the mr-02 chassis.
http://www.atomicmods.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=12195
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=3758
sadly, their capacity’s are shit, only 300-460mah, if you can find any polyquest 600mAh packs (mentioned a lot here at ausmicro) then they’re the best. but good luck to you!
cheers,
ph2t.
diehard, the first thing you should be asking yourself is what surface are you going to drive on the majority of the time? once you tell us that the rest is a piece of cake.. 🙂
ph2t.
veeeeeeeery nice! bet i packs a punch too huh? lol…
@Kerosene 225378 wrote:
I’ve just bought a couple of 2 cell lipos for my planes.
ph2t – Any idea what the esc’s cutoff is? I don’t wanna trash my new batteries.there’s no cutoff on the esc mate and always unplug the batts. even when turned off it still drains the batts. found that out the hard way….. 🙁
@klims 225371 wrote:
whats the matter ph2t? can’t handle the competition? lol.
well i am from Thomo so it was only a matter time till i bolted on a turbo. maybe i should get some canary yellow shrink wrap…
lol, figures…… haha….
we need to hookup at TFTR soon, you on holidays at the moment mate?
@rcs2die4 225365 wrote:
Hmmm, little brass spaces ?? My car has never had any little brass spaces in the servo gear box !!! Come to think of it, my mates AWD doesn’t have any either !!!
We pre-ordered these cars from the states so they were some of the first to come out ! Maybe the brass spaces were an update on newer batches !! Just a thought !! Anyway, any chance at some stage could you PM us a pic or two of the box with brass spaces in it so I can amend the post ?? :topstuff:
RCS
My bad then. the spacers must only be in the 01 and 02 servo gearboxes. ignore my post. 🙂
nice work mr country. 🙂 I like the metric pad that is the background for all the pics, lol……
Just one thing, I may off missed it but do you mention the little brass spacers that sit between some of the servo gears? They’re testy lil buggers that can be lost or confused about their locations very easily….
Excellent work! This thread is getting majorly linked 🙂
lol, wtf is it with us Aussies. it’s bloody turbo central down under!
good work klims, home grown ftw! lol…
lol @ the last two posts, should never of opened my bloody mouth!
Give me a lil while fellas, I’ll get all the details. Busy here this evening….
@merc-blue 225340 wrote:
ANy cahnce i could drop it off for repair?
Let us know whens a good time, wouldnt mind having a quick look at the micro-t decide if i should go thereSure. I’m on leave all of next week. any day from Tuesday onwards is fine. I’m in East Bentleigh, you still gots my mobile # man?
@klims 225331 wrote:
PH2T, while i’m on the topic of education does this pcb need a 5v regulated supply to run lipos? have you done any investigation into the gate voltages?
pcb is good for a 2s lipo supply, no servo chatter either when increasing voltage. fet drive is the same as mini- pcb’s, Vgs doesn’t increase with Vcc, 🙁 .
More info here:
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showthread.php?t=503welcome to the dark side klims, lol….the micro-t is a world of modding unto itself….
nah, it’s ok, I’m sure of which version it is 🙂 Are just the main fets fried? (the SO8 packaged ones).
lol….. peer pressure at its best!
I could prolly repair it, but I’m low on MOSFETS at the moment. If I remember it was the nelly pro version with the uber small MOSFET drivers on it.
@rcs2die4 225315 wrote:
Your a champ !!!!
So you use wides on the rear yeah ??
So if I use Gandini’s would I get medium compound too ?
Also PH2T, What rear shocks (top /side) do you use ??
Yeah, I run an enzo shell, so 11mm rims on the rear with a wide offset.
Yaeh, get the medium or soft. The Gandini’s are very strong and will last a fair few packs.
I don’t use side shocks, (ie: roll shocks). They bind too easily. I just use a medium CF h-plate and the kyosho oil shock (spring removed). this works well. The CF h-plate helps return the roll to centre and the oil shock dampens bumbs in the concrete better than any spring setup ever can. 🙂
@rcs2die4 225275 wrote:
MMM I run on concrete too !! I’ve spent forever adjusting the balldiff to different settings !!
and yep I’ve tried a few different foams on the rear too !! still no luck !!!Ya mind if I get a few specs from you ??
Do you run side shocks ??
Do you have a top shock setup or do you run the kyosho oil shock with no spring ??
What notch T plate do you run ?? 1, 2 or 3
What brand and hardness foams do you run ??sorry for all the questions I just want this car to run right !!!
From a post of mine on another forum….
Quote:Concrete racing setups (for RWD chassis like mr-02 or other similar ones, eg: color’s chassis)Tyres (front)
Control in RWD steering on concrete is effective about managing understeer. Get it right and you will find it next to impossible to make your car spin out. You will always want understeer in concrete racing.
I use any of the following combos (all are 8mm narrow rims since we’re talking the front here).
-ATOMIC 30 deg A.W Groove-Narrow (AR-143)
-ATOMIC 40 deg A.W Groove-Narrow (AR-143)
-KYOSHO Radial Tyre 30 deg (MZW28-30)These tyres above I’ve found to be my favorites. The Kyosho radials last longer than the ATOMICS and have a more even grip factor to them during the life of the radial tread.
Tyres (rear)
Well we’re talking RWD here and basically it’s all about grip. With concrete FOAMS are the ONLY substance that gives the best grip. Hard slick rubber tyres are OK but ONLY for low power stock motors (non neo magnet), the traction is just enough but put any more power to it and it’s game over.
Singlehandly (after breaings) foam tyres increase the performance on concrete racing like nothing else. If you had to choose between rear and front tyre mods, mod the REAR first! Can’t stress this enough, foams pwn on concrete.
The only bugger about them is that they’re hard to get and only come pre mounted. Gandini Racing Products make the best pre mounted foams for the mini-z. Ausmicro is the best source of all the tyres available. (they come in packs of 4)
http://shop.ausmicro.net/index.php?currenc…3a&filter_id=15
If you want to buy a HUDY micro truer then you can by GP foams from a few places. http://www.ephobbies.com is one of them. This is a $200+ investment though… Only idiots would do that, lol……
NOTE: GRP pre-mounted foams do NOT come in ANY offset. This is the bugger. Good for 0deg bodies like the F1 but look like crud on an enzo. Hence why I bought the HUDY and became that idiot, lol…
My typical setup is this:
front – ATOMIC 30deg AW groove, narrow.
rear – GP foams on ATOMIC rims, medium compound.If I want tighter cornering I usually go with 40deg slicks. But only after I’ve gone through a few packs and am in the “zone” lol…. The front end will respond sharper to turns on the TX wheel with harder slicks up front.
As for camber, I use 2deg. You can also use 3 deg for tighter tracks. It helps add grip to the understeer but not in the form of a twitchy response.
This isn’t the be all and end all, just a guide to what myself and betty.k have found to be best.
ph2t.
Kero, you can upgrade the hell outta these little buggers mate. Check out my little beastie 🙂
http://www.ausmicro.com/forum/showthread.php?p=225310
There’s an excellent sub-forum for the Micro-T at rippers:
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/forumdisplay.php?f=76
A bucket load of info, mods and hopups are available. Including a fair few nutters that have gone brushless with their Micro-t’s, lol….
@merc, it goes like a little ripper! The GWS IPS motor doesn’t have the top speed of the stock LOSI motor (just a little bit slower), but the torque is insane. I’m working on some custom spur gears that have a less teeth to really up the speed from all that torque.
Body fits not a prob 🙂
Dunno the weight man, ain’t gots scales, sorry….
@klims, it’s about as fast as a mini-z with an S02. that’s on 4 cells 🙂 I’ll get a figure one day 🙂These things are serious fun.
yes, the spider will work a treat on the Micro-t, just like nelly does.
Well done Aaron! 🙂 Very nice work! See my motor and ‘tronics thread at rippers for info about hooking it up. I think we still use different colour codes though, lol, so users beware! ahah…
ph2t.
If I could only buy time like I buy parts, lol……
I’ll update mine soon. A few changes have been made to say the least……
lol, nelly won’t affect lights mate.
Get a neo magnet based motor, for xmods it’s a must. It will provide you with the torque you want. If you odn’t like the drop in top speed, gear the bugger up. 🙂
we (betty and I) would come, but it would have to be the weekend with advanced notice. I work pretty busy weekdays and considering I’ll have to drive up (haaling betty’s licenseless arse with me…), a weekend day is better.
cheers.
Hey Killer, thanks for the comments! I just looked at your webpage, wow! You can do some great TTTT work! If you need mosfets just grab them from the shop http://shop.ausmicro.net . Aaron (runs the shop and this forum) is a really great guy and will ship no problems to the Philippines.
Welcome!
cheers,
ph2t.
Klims, don’t listen to betty. If the guy drove it would ba a VW and would never leave 2nd gear, lol…..
You can go as fast as you want to but there are limits to what is feasible when you have a 1:28 scale car runnign along at 50-60kph on the ground. lol….
Suspension is a big thing. It can just be too fast to dampen well.
Grip is also an issue. You need some really nice soft n sticky foams to get that power to the ground and keep it there.
As for the two ebay links I would stay away from the JDR li-ion since they won’t give you the punch you need for the hot motor you will run to get the speed you want. I’ve run li-ions before and they will dump power very quickly. You can try the li-polys in that other link mate and see how you go. If you were to do that though just by the free standing cells at http://www.atomicmods.com and fit them to your mr-02.
that’s what I did with my polyquests….see the attached pic.
Quote:i know this isnt really a lipo question, but if i had a 6 cell setup with 4.8v running to the pcb and 7.2 running to the turbo would this work? i figure its the same as having a voltage reg on the turbo isnt it?That won’t work. The reason why is that the mosfet gate voltages don’t fully alternate between GND (0v) and Vcc (4.8v for 4 cell nimh). Whilst I won’t go into the full details, you will find that both the p-chan mosfets on your turbo will always be on. When you apply throttle you will create a short circuit along one path of the h-bridge and blow the turbo.
Found this out myself during the course of my nelly turbo development. I know it’s a shit to read but if you do get the chance read my nelly development thread. I go over this very problem is overwritten detail. lol…..
Quote:so anyway i was talking to the electronics guy at work who tells me that it is possible to run a load of 7.2v with a 5v gate voltage, however it does require some circuitry. i’ve been trying to figure something out using a configuration like this one (does’t seem to be up), but to adapt it to 4 input signals. what it does is use transistors and some pull up resistors to trigger the gate. i’ve been told that the right combination of resistors can make it happen, but i’d need to do some circuit analysis.
Has anyone tried to do something like this? is it a waste of time trying to get it to work?Yes it should work. You need to use pull up AND pull down circuitry on the pchan AND nchan mosfets respectively. Then drive the spider from the 4 inputs as usual. I use MOSFET drivers on my nelly deluxe to achieve a similar (but more effective) result. (MOSFET drivers are suited to turning on MOSFET really well, really fast, really hard!)
good luck dude……
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