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Oh, I’m way ahead of you…. I flew from Hong Kong to Bangkok with a heavy ski jacket… trust me, it looks silly, but the jacket weighs 4kg on it’s own.
This jacket costs about $600 in australia. $80 in HK.
For that kind of saving I’d wear a space suit !
When a BCG car costs $5aud… how many can you fit into your pockets and luggage ?I found a picture of one of the new subs on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146012402&category=1200I’d seen BCG skateboards, BCG busses motorcycles etc…now BCD mice have started appearing in HK.
My cat still preferes stalking the tanks.I’m looking for more of them in Sydney.
I’m sure they’ll turn up soon. If CC is selling them that cheap, most of the $2 shops will have them in the next few weeks. Wish I knew, because I’d have used the space in my luggage for other things.is that “huh” about chinese HC or Tim’s HC ?
Saw some new HC’s in Hong Kong last week.
Chinese Military Landing craft. They’re about 1/2 size of the typhoons. Still big by my standards, I hope to duplicate Tim’s micro HC, but with ducted air instead of forced air. See how it goes.
I’m also thinking of an ekronplane and other WIG craft now… it’ll take a bit more thinking to make one work, but I’m sure it can be done.This is the same as the one I have. I got mine in Hong Kong and it cost me $15 there about 6 months ago. It’s a very good deal !! I just picked up another on in Hong Kong last week (tanker)
and they still cost $12 there.
I do know however that they do suffer from motor problems, but changing the motor to some other BCG motor is ok. They have 2 batteries inside, so you’d think that you’d get twice as long out of their run time. In fact it’s about 1/4 of the time you get out of a car. 🙁 I added two small 3V lithium batteries and a voltage regulator and you basically don’t need to recharge it.
It’s a bit tricky getting the chassis off the wheels, but easy to put them back on once you know what’s going on.
I have a pick of one in my members gallery, check it out….yeah, I’d love too, but my bags are packed to the brim with lots of other goodies too.
I wish I had enough room for lots of other things, but back weight limit is 20kg and excess and some of that is my clothes etc. I’d even consider buying stuff there for people, and posting it back to australia, but the cost of postage out of hong kong is a killer, it’s cheaper to pay excess baggage with the airline.
There are other ways using consolidated freight, but you’d want to have a lot of stuff to ship back to make it worth while.Ah… OK, I now have some of these boats. I haven’t had much of a chance to play with them yet, let alone open them up. The controls are the same as the micro tanks. The one I tested in my hotel bath tub worked ok, and it was the worst of the batch. The others I haven’t tested yet, they are a different brand from the ones mentioned in this thread, otherwise they are pretty much the same. The hull looks like it was moulded in the same factory, but the deck is completely different. the controls and charger are also different, but still use the same basic tank controller functions. They have two motors.
BUT …. I have seen the REAL authentic Char-G boats. They have a single motor, a servo controlled rudder and a twin hull. They are the same length and width as a char-G car, but the hull is deep.. about 1-1/4 times deeper than the
boat is wide. It gives them that squished look.
The motor is also pitched down at an angle of about 20 degrees, so the boat gets some lift from the motor itself. Unfortunately I didn’t buy the one I saw, I figure there will be plenty of them about in a few weeks and the price will drop dramatically.There is also a Char-G submarine. Yes Ihave one,
I couldn’t resist. It was so awesome I had to have it.
The sub is the same design as I mentioned before, but it is MUCH smaller, about 5cm long and 3cm wide. It has a white LED on the nose as a headlight, and two yellow running lights on front, and port and starboard red/green led’s on the stern. The propulsion is two outboard motors pitched to provide downward and forward thrust.The RC transmitter is ‘full size’ 2ch joystick control. I have a bit plane which uses the same controller.
…sorry to tease you all, but you’ll have to wait 20 more days to see the pics and video of it.
😀
see the General forum, I’ have just sent a post there now.
thailand
back next month.thailand
back next month.Pacific Fair used to have the radio control boats at the shopping center, though I’m not sure if surfers paridise was the first place with a 24 hour maccas. Canley Vale was where the first maccas was in Australia in 1975.
The Digi-Q are all in one.
The clones have seperate chargers.
I just took my Digi-Q down to jaycar today, but I accidently took the wrong controler for the tank.
Each type of digi-Q tank has an ID, much like a crystal controls the frequency for radio. Doh !
I was going to test compatibility and get a picture of the two units side by side for comparison.
Will do that tomorrow and let yaz all know !or do what I do …
get a chushy job that pays lots of money combined with overseas travel to places where this stuff it cheap 🙂
just found a pic of it …
check my gallery pics…East Timor
Beaches are ok, the fishing is good (in the wet season) the diving is great, other than that the place sucks. But I get paid for being here, so I can’t complain too much 🙂hehe, to be honest I couldn’t remember. I had 5 days to play with it at home before I had to go away and work overseas again. I just had a quick look for it on the web. It’s a typhoon T-3 I think, camo green, unless you’re talking about my real hovercraft. It’s an Expo-4. They are different types of hovercraft.
The taiyo can hover without having to move forward
because of the fan in the hull. The expo ducts air from the fan into the skirt. It won’t fly unless the revs are up and you’ve basically moving forward.
This is the same as mine, except it’s red.
http://www.qhs.biz/second.htmsounds interesting.
I was thinking about lap counter/timers for mini/micro cars. A bar code scanner seemed simple but expensive. I was writing some software
for I2C last night when it dawned on me to put
a pic in the car with an LED and use it to transmit a code to the lap counter. It then looks
for codes IR as cars pass under it. There is more
than enough processor time to scan the track width for multiple cars.
It’s then simple to display the results on an LCD screen. The code for this is drastically simple… I just to get home, buy some pics and
write the code in my head onto them.
Add this one to my list of uncompleted projects. 👿mini-X is good. have a look at my gallery, you can see the difference. The mini-X is good stock standard, and the Z you basically need to upgrade,
but that is half the fun 🙂 They both drive pretty similar, though I’m not much of a driver.actually just found this one too.
http://www.microrccenter.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=11945
z-beam
just realised there is one on the floor behind me.
took a quick snap of it with the camera.After seeing what local shops sell miniZ’s for, and they don’t stop the upgrade parts which make them worth while. I wonder why they bother.
Mini Z’s are for the more serious racer. The comps are big in asia, the micro’s a more fun
and a bit more practical for home racing etc.Pretty cool stuff.
Got to love that trailer 🙂shouldn’t that be spelt ‘fonetic’ ?
oh I figured EMR would be a downside. How big was you head and coil ? From the sounds of it what you built was large. 150A is about starter motor size. Large motors for this kind of thing
would be ineffecient. I was thinking small, piston size about 3mm dia.
Was your motor a 1 stroke or 2 stroke ? power
on the up stroke as well as the down ?
I was thinking of a flywheel circuit to tune each cyclinder, varying this as the running speed
changes. A real flywheel to smooth out the stroke
and help transfer engery into the next stroke.The micro cars are cheap. Everybody has their favourite, some are better than the others. If you start with a micro car like the bit’s or char-g, they’re like $10-15. The mini Z’s I think are better, but the price isn’t relative. Local hobby shop’s markup is huge compared to overseas.
You can easily pay $100 for a basic car and then another $250 upgrading it to something good. -
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