twizm

[twizm]

im thinking of this mod on one of my spare chassis. i dont see how it changes the gear ratio at all, after all you are changing wheel size, not the size of the gear on the axle. saying that, it probably doesnt change the ratio, the fact that the tyres are smaller means lower top speed or something.

[twizm]

id give you credit if you managed to make the skid marks look realistic, or if you actually put some in the second photo.
its still a good job, but i dont think its possible to get smoke from the tyres before the motor, unless you somehow create a petrol engine small enough to fit in a bit.

[twizm]

really? judging by the look of the interior its had nothing done to it:smiley2: you couldnt possibly fit 2 motors, 2 pcbs and double mosfets into a standard bit and STILL be able to put on the pcb cover and the bodyshell.

oh…wait….you must of used INVISIBLE pain on them:p

[twizm]

i just destroyed my bit. 🙁

new one will be on its way soon, this time a REAL bit.

[twizm]

i know for a fact you photoshopped it. no way on earth could you get enough power to BURN the wheels out of such a tiny car, but an electric motor just wouldnt be able to supply the power for it. also being a photo shop junky i know EXACTLY what to look for.

drifting i would believe, but burnouts? you have got to be kidding.

[twizm]

painting is fairly simple. ive never done a bit, but my 1/24th kits usually turn out brilliant. tamiya paints are good but make sure you buy the correct type. get plastic paints, not the lexan body paint. ALWAYS USE PRIMER. i dont heat my paint, i just shake it for 5minutes or so and make sure its nice and ready. clear gloss works well, but you need to shake that ALOT so it doesnt come out gluggy. also for that showroom shine use some of tamiyas polishing wax, its the best thing on earth to cut back that rough paint job into a silky smooth mirror finish.

*was not paid for that advertisement :clown:*

[twizm]

theyll charge me 20 bucks just to transfer it OS?! man thats weak. it says something about putting my order number in ‘this’ field, but it doesnt say which, the only one i can think of is the bank tel. number because the instruction is closest to that.

i would of paid the extra for express shipping, but i only get paid so much a week, and so far 2 weeks worth have gone into online purchases:blush: and im sposed to be buying a car/bass amp/clothes

ebay is addictive

[twizm]

im thinking of just gluing it in place. though a lump of blue-tac is helping out at the moment, just gotta watch the axle

[twizm]

im also having trouble keeping the battery connection in place. (the one that sits under the motor) its been slipping out constantly on my one, and now my spare (well, brothers) one. i now have to resolder the connections on them both :angry:not happy jan.

will have some better parts in a week or so, auto mod kit, 4.2 motor, heat sink and batteries 😀

[twizm]

yeah i realised that after i posted. :blush:

[twizm]

just posted another thought on chassis design:) the pull back chassis could prove useful.

[twizm]

anyone got links or photos of the chassis?

[twizm]

gold is supposed to be the best metal for transferring signal isnt it? all my A/V plugs/sockets, headphones and leads are gold tipped, or at least gold coated.

[twizm]

itd be good if my brother ever broke his guitar strings, but he doesnt. and my bass strings are too fat to use. guitar/bass strings arent cheap either. im not sure if you can buy individual strings anymore or even if you could.

[twizm]

almost julz. you have it the wrong way round. when you go into reverse from forward, you are also braking, throwing weight to the front of the car, letting the drive wheels spin more freely due to less weight over them.

[twizm]

this is somewhat helpful. im going to be putting an underglow in my car, preferably red to match the body. its gonna be a tight fit in there with a dual cell mod though =
im such a say-er and not a do-er

[twizm]

im think if forgetting this project, im going to be doing an internal dual cell, so reducing weight is gonna be pretty useless then.

[twizm]

yeah i figured there isnt much hope of getting lifelike drift. maybe a 4.2 motor in a mosfet booster kit would do it:evil: hit the boost in a turn and BAM!

[twizm]

looks good ph2t 🙂
i think im gonna leave mine red, i like the look of the paint job (or at least how it looks on http://www.signatureautomotive.com)

[twizm]

back on topic, ive seen some of the pull back bodies on BCG chassis and they seem to be on an angle. is this the case or do they sit level to the ground?

[twizm]

indeed it is trash. indeed it is…

[twizm]

thats odd, because if diodes produce light and they only work in one direction, youd think that by absorbing light they wouldnt work at all.

nice work nonetheless.:)

[twizm]

the main parts that weigh the most are the battery and the chassis, so most of the work will be done to the chassis as i cant really drill a battery:smiley2:. then i guess the only real weight reduction can be done in re-wiring and removing/replacing all metal parts. if anyone can provide info on the weight of some of those parts it would be a big help.

[twizm]

my friends and i were sitting in KFC and i was trying to crush an empty cup of popcorn chicken like a coke can with my hand (like when you step on it to compress it down). i must of tried 50 times before one of them said ‘duh its because a circle is the strongest shape!’ and then the other one said ‘no you fool triangles are the strongest!’. so i said ‘yeah, if that were a triangle, id be dead right now’.

[twizm]

i stand corrected.
thanks.

[Author]

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