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Lemme see if I got this correctly, say you?re assamblig on a table and need to put the objects in the order they will be finished. We are talking about the fron right? What you what to do is:
Pin- Wheel Cover -Washer -Wheel- White plastic that atthaces to the car
It will probably work, but:
-You need to glue the wheel cover to the wheel anyway and this might interfere with the rotation of the wheel.
-Remember, the front pins do not rotate.
-even if it works, and if I am understanding you correctly, having the pin be visible might not look as good as having it hid under the cover.
-As far as Epoxy goes, it is strong, buy since you are dealing with non poruos surfaces, is is not difficult to take appart if you change your mind or make a mistake. You will find that taking apart the glued parts requires about the same effort as taking apart the original axle, I have done it my self. Just be sure that everything is working 100% before you put the wheel covers on, becuase I am almost certain that they will break if you try to remove them after setting them with epoxy, they are so fragile. Also, if you dissasemble after using the epoxy and then want to reapply the glue, scrape off as much of the original as possible.
I understand the end result of what you wan?t, I has crossed my mind too, having 10 sets of wheels leftI would really like to be able to exchange the gear ratios without rebuildinjg the whole thing. The front wheels I dont mind, but the rear is a problem. It bothers me having my beatifull wheels commited to a single gear ratio, when I don?t even know yet which ratio will work best with them.
Ideally I would like to put a thread on the wheel, model the new axel with screwthreads on both ends, and only glue the gear to the axle. That way you can mix and match wheels to gear ratios.
Given the right tools I am sure it can be done, but I live in the town that time forgot in Mexico, so I have to wait until my next visit to the US or Japan to get the stuff I need to do it. By the way, could you help me by giving me the correct names of the tools needed to:
-Create a thread on a nut.
-Create a thread on a screw.
This so I can make the correct searches in google, and who knows, I might be able to order the stuff on the web.
Best Regards
Ottho
I had the same problem with my supra, but after I adjusted the (pot) it works great now. I almost sent it back to toyeast it was so bad. Try that and see if that helps…
thanks manshark – good overview of how to install them since they came with no directions or guides on the website.
Have you tried using longer pins for the front such that the covers slide onto them, then a shallow washer, then the wheel, then the axle? I ask because the all-glueing solution seems to almost make them permanent- I’ll ave to check toyeast and see if they can ship me some steering mounts and spare pins perhaps instead if this is the only method…
The marketing exectutives have no idea what age bracket they’re suppose to target….Plus it’s alot easier to use molds that already exist instead of creating new ones. They all wanna get rich off somebody elses ideas.
I love the body styles of the foreign cars, but I alsolove the cars that are american styles too…
I almost forgot, you must glue the covers on too, remeber, very little glue. Try pushing the covers in with the Eraser head of a pencil. (new)
Finally, for the front tires, you should make the holes on the wheels big enough to fit the original pin, althoug you are going to need to clip it a little, as it is it is too large and it will prevent the wheel from turning properly due to it portruding on the inside of the car, clip off a little bit only.
If you ruin the pins, you can get replacements at http://www.toyeast.com or just rebulid it using a small nail and some glue. Its difficult, but it can be done I will later post some pictures of my nephews car. We rebulit one of the front pins becuase itbent in the process of being removed and the broke when we tried to strighten it. Howver the car runs perrfectly, and the difference is not noticeble since the nail head sits behind the wheel cover.




I have bought every set the make (12 in total) they ship anywhere. “Experienced” is not right, i would say EXPERTS only. Although the results are worth it. If you are planning to get them, consither the following:
-They are completely useless as they arrive, holes in the wheels are not big ehough, no axis, unpainted covers.
-Must use a 56 drill bit to enlarge hole on aluminum wheels.
-Completely rebuilt the axis. You will need a steel rod of about the same caliber as the drill bit, both avalable at hobby shops. This is because to start the axis on the cars is made of a cheap material that bends easily, you will probaly bend it when removing the original wheels. Also, since the original wheels and gear are pressure locked, the axis has some spikes to provide this locking. Thus if you make the holes on the wheels big enough to fit the original axis with the spikes and all, the wheels will be loose fitting and impossible to align correctly.
-The axis you make will be shorter. Even if you could file away the spikes and not bend the original axis in the process of dissasambling it, you would still need to cut it about a milimmeter or two. Trust me, its better to get a replacement steel rod at the hobby shop. Get your car and go to the shop, see which caliber fits ok. Get the drill bit too.
-Do not enlarge the hole on the wheels so much that the new rod is loose, it will be impossible to align. It must be snug.
-You will get one wheel with an extension, the other 3 without, this wheel should go on the back oppsite to the gears, tha is on the other side. If you look at your bit from the top with the front wheels facing away from you, then it is the right side. this extension is to compensate for the distance, ie the axis is no symmetirc.
-When you have the new rods gears and wheels ready, glue it all toghether with very little 5 minute Epoxy. And when I say very little, I mean almost nothing, a drop on the top of a tooth pick. I have found that its better to glue the gear to the wheel and then put the rod through. You can use a little bit more Epoxy to glue the wheel to the gear, but remember, not to much. If you can see it, its to much, wipe it off quickly. It is very important that no excess glue be on the axis and the wheels, especially where they come into contact whith the car.
-Finish installing all wheels before you put the covers on. Test the car, forward, backward, turns, everything.
-It is VERY IMPORTANT that the tires not be pressed all the way in, in fact, they should leave a small part of the wheel (hairline, not more) facing inside the car uncovered. Otherwise the steering will be funky and maybe the rear wheels won?t turn. Try all operations firs without the tires, then install them.
-If the car drives funny probably you installed the tires crooked.
-Once you havew the car running and tested without the body, put the body on. Now the car won?t run, steer funny or other problems. to fix this you must either file away or cut the parts of the body that come into contact with the tires. This happens becuase the tires are MUCH WIDER!!! The cars as pictures in bitcharg.de will not run becuase their bodies have not been modded.
-Truck bodies are easier to mod. Car bodies require a lot of material to be removed.
-When you are done, if the car looks to ugly due to the huge frontal wheel wells to accomodate the tires, its off to the shop again, for some modelling putty to mod the body to make the wells wider, like a real race car.
It will take you a while, but here are some pics of what you?ll get, the Accord is not finished yet, still have to mod the body, the BB runs like a Charm, completely finished.




I’m all about the ’65 Mustangs, ’67 Camaros, “67 Stingrays, ’71 Corvettes, ’68 Firebirds, GTOs, Chevelles, Barracudas andCougars. Anybody that has made one is THE MAN. I’m trying to make a Camaro myself, still looking for a good base body…
I agree with a previous post-er about making NASCAR bodies for the US market. Half the Microsizer models available are Skylines, Lancers, bB Open Deck, etc., cars you don’t see in the States.These micro r/c’s will die in the US because of horrible marketing. It’s a shame because they’re pretty freakin’ cool.
a little better range..
but alas….not too good 🙁
they are back in stock at questformadness.com!
Oddly enough- it appears that the wild char-w cars will have either some sort of 3rd channel for the weapons sets or simply some sort of lever system that activates when you drive forwards… monster trucks are nice, but i’m still waiting for tanks…
-dan
american muscle would be the best, like baracuda, hemi cuda, camaro 69, corvette, Trans am, and the GTO. Now that would be awesome. They would have no problem marketing them in the US. Too bad it probably will never happen…..
silla
i’m going to try it now!
ultimate light mod schematics would be awesome
Hola TruenoCharG,
Soy americano, pero tengo una esposa dominicana. Me encanta las morenitas de alla. Que haces en miami? ahora yo tengo mi supra, por fin!!!!
WOW, que apero, el supra corre mucho con un3.0. tambien tengo un skyline GTR, pero siempre gano con mi nissan gloria 🙂
cuando vienes aSt. Petersburg? yo tengo como 6 meses viviendo aqui y todavia no tengo muchos amigos. son viejos aqui
cool site
nos vemos:)
Wow, thanks for the prompt response :smiley4:. Very good reply.
Stopping the motor from turning results in a short curcuit in one of the armature coils. If sufficient heat builds up, it will burn out the coil. The car will still run on two coils, but will produce 2/3rds the power (two of three coils are working). It will also stutter.
As for the second part of the question, if the car doesn’t have enough power to get up the hill at the end of a charge, it probably won’t burn out the motor, but certainly will not help it either. If the pinoin were slipping, you would be able to hear the motor turning.
Hey Lionheart i know where to buy em you can get a compact char-g in north land shopping centre in toys r us i bought a compact char-g there but look carefully there tricky to find and there in th remote control section and u can buy one from a hobby shop its right next to dimaru u know it its to the left next to the car park its called the hobbie place they sell BIT CHAR-G not compact but there way to expensive there around 99 to 120 bucks but it depends how much u wnt em
Yep, you guys have guessed it… it’s a sliced and diced diecast job. It was a lot harder than it looks, tho. It took me quite a while to finally get it to fit right (Dremel rules!) but it’s in good working order now. I haven’t painted it yet, so I’m open to color suggestions. I’m thinking camo, armygreen, or a darkorange.
Modeller’s World in China Town Sydney Marigold Plaza sell the Japanese Char-G’s for $99 any model, a bit dear but if your scared to buy online it’s a place to go, they have about 10 different models in stock.
I disagree. These are great little cars. You get proportional control! That means controlled drifts, and precise racing. If the car is too slow, build a tighter track. I run mine on a polished wood floor, and rally style drift arount every corner. Kids won’t like them. Guy coming from 1/10th scale will. The transmitter is even FM! 50 metre range, way further than you could ever see! There’s a module in the back of the transmitter for frequency changes, but not in the car. I think Yokomo will release some options for these soon. As for bodies, Airfix’s plastic Mini Cooper would be a perfect fit.
Also, the transmitter undercharges the car. Try charging the car twice. I’d buy yours but I’m in Australia.
i wanna do a small fold-up 🙂
try this link: http://www.hlj.com/pages/AutF.html#Bit%20Char-G
no pics tho 🙁
EEK!! NOT THAT DESPERATE!!!
My rally and drag bits…
Tomy Bit Char-G 27Mhzchasis -black front tyres
- Initial D AE86 Trueno shell (black hood lights up, Trueno black SPORTS spoiler from AE86 Tuneup box)
- Rear black drift axle (9.86:1)
- Front soft Bit Char-G tyres (from AE86 Tuneup box)
- 2.2 Micro B motor
- NIMH 1/3AAAcell replacement
- Stabisus- soft
- Spring/coil shock absorber mod
[/list]
Tomy Bit Char-G 35Mhz Booster chasis -chrome front tyres
- Initial D RX7 shell
- Rear chrome 12:1 axle -Hard tyres (from AE86 Tuneupbox)
- Front Hard tyres (from AE86 Tuneupbox)
- 3.8 OEM motor
- NIMH 1/3AAA cell replacement
- Stabisus- hard
[/list]
all bits n pieces taken from the following… damn fun stuff.
AE86 Tuneupbox 27Mhz
Project D Initial D Trueno/RX7 set 27Mhz
35Mhz Skyline Booster Set (with 4 band controller)
Compact Char-G 27Mhz Honda S2000
Compact Char-G 40Mhz Skyline
Clear WRX body, Settings sets GS03, GS04…
Bit Racer Track + 2 bit racers..:smiley5:
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