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Yeah but their prices for accessories are outragous! $10 for tires. I’ll stick with HLJ.
I also saw them at Hot Import Nights at the LA convention center this past weekend. They had the Bit Char-G for $30-$35 depending on model. That’s the cheapest I’ve ever seen them here! There were two other booths thatwere selling Bit Char-G’s for $45 bucks and up. JDM toys definitely has the best prices I’ve seen here in the states.
BTW, I just checked their site and prices are posted and they are offering FREE FREIGHT on all orders shipped inside the US. What a deal!!
-B
My steering diameter is now larger, but I shorten the “springs should improve that (not yet time for it)
But with this U maybe can make your bits turn left and right at the same distance !!
I think Derek needs to make a “Fetish” section for all you wierdoes (especially KITT) so us normal people can steer clear of these wacked out retro ideas (haha). Sure I watched Knight Rider, but I also watched the Dukes of Hazard and the Brady Bunchbut you don’t see me making a Bit Ghar-g convertiable Cadilac with bull horns on the front like Boss Hog or a Tow truck with more bondo than steel like Jessyor a 1972 green stationwagon like the Brady’s!:smiley4:
IT’S 2002! Even David H. has moved on with life. He knows KITT attracted the babes back in the day but an oscillating red light on the front ofhis car just won’t pull in the babes (Pamela Anderson)likeit used to! (hahaha)
Just Kidding All! Whatever keeps your clock ticking is cool with me.
I’ve ordered from them around 12+ times in the last year, and have been a long-time customer in a way, and have always been happy with their service. Although they don’t update your order information often, if the item is in stock, I’ve had turnarounds of JP to US in under a week, sometimes much faster. When I started ordering bit char-g stuff back in February, the orders took much longer usually because one or 2 items was out of stock.
Like most importers, cdjapan.com also does this (for those who order import cd/dvd)- they ship the order once ALL parts are in stock, so occassionally the delay is due to them running out of an item right before you place an order.
I suggest making 2 orders- one for stuff they have in stock, and those not in stock- it works much better that way. Also, the volume of orders for bitchar-g is MUCH less than gundam, takara, or other items they reguarily stock.
-dan
nosaj- i follow you- currently im in negotiations with getting some quotes on custom molded laptop parts i might be starting a business designing, so if that works out i might just make the scale chassis molded rather than sheet, and go magnesium or plastic, whichever i can get a better deal on, since the same mold can be used for both.
-dan
I ordered from them, took 3 1/2 month to receive order + they didn? declare package as gift so I had to pay more than thought !!
Go to Ebay.com look for the sellers STELLAMODELS or SANGPOLLY.
(there?s a thread over @ http://www.microracers.com forum !!!
Hey guys,
I’ve never dealt with ToysEast, but in the U.S. you can check out http://www.jdmtoys.com. They are pretty cheap and pay for freight in the U.S. There are no prices listed on the websitte at this time, but all you gotta do is email them with what you want and they will quote you. Prices range fro $35 -$40 shipped in the U.S.
They are still building the website. All you have to do is email them through the contact page and let them know what you want. They will quote you through email and arrange payment. They mainly distribute, so you get pretty good prices.
I have ordered from Hobby Link before and it took forever to get. I just found a place online in the U.S. http://www.jdmtoys.com. They pick up the freight anywhere in the U.S. and the prices range from $35 – $40. I also just saw them at Hot Import Nights Car Show, they had almost every make and model. Hope this helps.
I agree with defor no lexan or lucite or plexiglass. At radioshack you can get pretty large(for bits) pieces of fiberglass. It has holes drilled in it too so its easy to cut and wil be pretty light.
Have either of you thought about making the chassis out of sheet metal? I used to race 1/24th scale slot cars. I got into buying 1/24th scale models and making custom chassis to fit the bodies. Basically I bought 2 chassis and hacked them and soldered them together. It worked really well.
The big problem is it wouldbe full custom not a chop and slop. But the bonus would be motor placement. Like slot cars you could solder the motor to the chassis. Then you would only have to worry about exact placement of the axle and Idler/stepdown(gear between axle and pinion) gear. Also I think the steering area would have to remain plastic, to not affect the magnetic action.
Defor I love your original idea of having chassis stamped or photoetched. If you have a good enough design, I would be very interested partnering to get that off the ground. Drop me an email if you would like to discuss this further: nosajklr@hotmail.com
well the way they seem to be selling out, I would say its gonna be quite successful. which is what we all hope.
xcellent. they shipped my stuff yesterday, and it should be here in6 days. much better estimate than last time, which was 2 weeks.
Well ugosplat, I cut the cap and resistor on an NSX (which later became my nephew’s), but I could have sworn that they were in a different location. Also, I did not check the range before their removal, but the range after was nowhere near the range of the usual “after crip cap” cars. Unfortunately, I can’t check the remote to see if it was the same as yours since it is in Colorado and I’m in Maryland :smiley6:.
If you you have the ability, you could experiment with it, but I’d use a soldering iron to remove the components so you can put them back in if there’s a problem or it makes things worse.
I added my nephew’s NSX-R to the database as a Yes since it had a cap that I removed, but I’m not sure if it counts since the range still isn’tthat good.
Yeah i’ve already decided that for my self=) hehe i dont like not knowing where my stuff is
NICE CHARGER KITT! That’s exactly what I had in mind for a portable charger but I couldn’t find a 3 cell battery holder like that at radio shack (only 2 and 4 cell) Where did you get that?
JMD. Duracel Ultra’swill work fine.
-Peter
forceusr- I’ve been compining a similar list of all bit hobby products and noticed you were missing
27mhz
g-00 nissan skyline gt-r r34 calsonic racing team bb2.2
disney resort cruiser bb1.0
both promo items but still official tomy bit char-g models.
a link to my database is here:
-dan
PS- if anyone knows anyone selling the disney resort cruiser or calsonic- let me know- I’ve found the calsonic a few places, but have been unhappy with the prices given.
Good call KITT
Digi-Q’s are more expensive. If you get a Bit Char-g anddo the 2 cell conversion you’ll spendthe same amount of $ but you’ll have a bit that goes just as fast a the digi. Then you can spend more $ later and do all the other mods to your bit like tires, suspension bars …
I have both kinds of cars and hardly ever use my digi anymore. It’s harder to control and doesn’t EVER land the jumps that my bit lands every time. My bit can clear an 8″ tall jump and land perfectly on the landing ramp 10″ away. The digi clears the same jump but rolls over about 10 times when it lands. Even small jumps that are only 1″ tall are a problem for it. The bit goes over them and lands on the flat ground just like going over a large speed bump but the digi goes off it and bounces a few times and usually rolls over.
The digi is great for driving on a wide open, flat hard floor like a gymnasium or large hard wood floor kitchen but that’s about it. I prefer to drive the bit in all other situations.
-Peter
Oh and B V CAREFUL with the springs… you drop it and it’ll bounces rightoutta site….
I found that cuttingONE spring intoEXACTLY 2 halfs fitseach car perfectly i.e use one spring per car…. KAPEESH??!!!….
Thanks for the support KFM. You’re right, the same resistance, being a constant, applied to all theoretical speeds will yield a good grasp of what different motors and gear rations will change with respect to eachother, just not accurate speeds.
b_drift, I HAD THE SAME IDEA! We must both be crazy! I would prefer to use the lap counter with a second sensor but I’ve never seen a lap counter and don’t know what it uses for a sensor so I don’t know if I’d be able find another sensor without having to but another counter. Do you know what kind of sensor it uses? I was thinking it probably uses an infared sensor since you say it has areflector. I also thought I probably wouldn’t need a switch. If you just wired in another sensor (in parallel if normally opened sensor or series if normally closed sensor). Again, the trick being finding another sensor. This is just my guess based on never seeing a counter’s circuitry.
I think this would be the most accurate way. Maybe I’ll order a counter and see what I can come up with.
-Peter
I have 4 boosters and the mod worked on 2 of them 45mhz and 35mhz, but messed up the steering on the 57mhz. Performance improved on the cars with the shocks.
hehe, but Next time you order ORDER FROM THE WEBSITE not ebay, the website never fails!
Barrelll. Here’s a link to my “bit char-g grave yard” part of my web page. The wheels on this thrashed bit are OEM’s. You can see where I machined off the chrome around the wheel(it’s black plastic underneath) to square up the ridge to accept a bit tire. It’s ugly but the tire covers it up. I used a small lathe to do my mod but the drill and dremel trick works well too.
-Peter
Barrell, The OEM front wheels will fit the Bit-Charg. The Bit charge frontaxle is a little bit hard to get out. I think Derek posted my procedure on how to pound out the axle somewhere in the tech section. If you can’t find it let me know. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE AXLE OUT WITH PLIERS! You will bend the wheel and maybe even bend the axle. Press the axle out from behind so you don’t damage anything and take your old wheels off. Then press out the axle on the OEM. The OEM axles come out easy because they don’t have any barbs holding them in. I recommend using the Bit Char-g axles if you haven’t bent them but you can get away with using the OEM axles on your Bit Charg if you have to. The bit axle can only press in so far but the OEM axle can press in too far as to not allow the wheel to spin freely so you may have to back it out if this happens.
DOWNSIDE TO OEM WHEELS — You may be limited to only using the tires (that’s rightAuse’s, it’s spelled tires in the US not tyres)that come with the OEM. The OEM wheels are cheaply made and the ridge around the middle of the wheel that holds the tire in place is not verry accurate, It’s rounded off instead of nice and square. They make the tires for the OEM’s with a wider groove inside so the tire will fit. If you put soft bit tires on the OEM they’ll work but the hard tires don’t. The outer edges of the tires stick up and the middle of the tire is concave. There is a fix to this if you have a drill and a dremel. Chuck the wheel in the drill sticking out half way. This is the hardest part since the wheel is small and you don’t have much to chuck on. Now have a friend hold the drill solid on the table and spin the drill. You, with a dremel and a cut off wheel, cut the middle raised ledge nice and straight up and down. Do that to both sides of the ridge and then to the top of the ledge also. Now your Bit tires should fit.
A lot of work, yes. I would probably choose to buy a new Bit Char-g and use your old one for spare parts. The only reason I did this mod was because I bent a wheel and had an OEM for partsand didn’t have a Bit for parts so desperate times called for desperate measures. :smiley2:
Sorry for the lengthy babble, hope it helps.
-Peter
Good points, Guyver!
My suggestion to EVERYONE in Australia that would like to see more of these released is as follows:
1. Buy locally for the cars available locally- the pricing is excellent IMHO and we should make some effort to support the Aussie distributor. It’s a big gamble they’ve taken, especially when you look at how much they’ve already tipped into advertising and support.
and
2. EmailJNH Australiawith details of the models that you’d like to see in the future. Ask about upgrades and spares. Let them know that there are enthusiasts in Australia prepared to buy through their retailers.
Just my 2c worth. Of course – there is NO relationship commercial or otherwise, bewteen JNH Australiaand Aaron or Myself (the ausmicro guys).
Regards
Derek
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