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I have a Chevy’s 57…….
but, is a Taiyo RadiCan
🙂
Thx for the info. Is it too much to ask for a pic of the inside of it?
With my 4-band I’m getting about 6 foot with a standard booster car. I’m not sure if that is good or bad, but its adequate for the sort of racing I do (we only have enough track for a 12ft circuit).
By unravelling the car antenna from around the circuit board, and removing the knot, I added about an inch and a half to the length (oh! err missus!). This car has a range of about 10 foot before it starts to stutter. I may try tuning the pot on the car as well
hey mcojoc. by electronics being the problem, i was referring to the times when the car doesn’t work well from even 1 foot away. this has happened to my friends multi controllers. anyways, the longer antenna cannot hurt. i’ll post my findings tonight. b
errr…. forgot the address perhaps?

Yeah,
COOL wheels.. where.. how.. wha?? I WANT SOME!!
My friend is buying a digital camera soon, probablynext week. I’ll take a movie of it in action and post it ASAP.
-Peter
No, If indeed it is microprocesser controlled you can’t do that.
Hey MrDigi,
I have read that on the 57 mhz cars that the frequency used in the car is also the same frequency used in most baby monitors and childrens walkie talkies. If it’s put out by a toy company and it uses rf freqs then chances are it is 57 mhz.
yeps. got them too. has anyone tried to put hard rubber tires in front? it may help control the car. b
aww. so it wouldn’t be as easy as having 2 open female ends and sticking a crystal between them on the right parts of the board where the processor is? b
Yes you can charge while transmitting another car if you wire it like I said. You pretty much can’t go wrong with wiring a switch since the charge tabs on the bottom of the car go directly to the battery without wires. Any wire you decide to split for the switch will allow you to charge while opperating another car on that freq.
I imagine the crystal trick would work for the transmitter but the cars don’t have standard crystals. I haven’t really looked that hard but I’m guessing the car has solid state type microchip processor that determines frequency. and cannot be changed unless reprogrammed. I’m just guessing on that so I’ll look into it.
-Peter
There are other places on line to get batteries in small quantities. I got 5 and it cost $20.00 shipping included.
It’s not the long run time I like about them it’s how peppy they are for the first couple minutes that I like.
-Peter
I was going to put a timer in mine or something to turn off under a certian amprage but didn’t have time. But, yes, you have to watch it. I left my car on and forgot it. 15 minutes later it started smoking and sizzling. I took it off and I could bend it back and forth because all the plasic was soft from being so hot. I bent it back to as best I could so I would cool properly. Needless to say the battery was fried but I had a switch on the bit to turn off the batt when not in use so it didn’t damage my electronics. It’s till a little warped around the battery area but runs just fine!
-Peter
Mmmmmm Just imagine if we could modboosters to have the 40 and 49 MHz frequencies from the Bullets

hey what is that yellow s2000 doing? is it going to run a tube chassis? lates b
me me me me. woohoo. i made a useful contribution to this board!!!! hey prabbit. since you seem to be a good electronics person, can you figure out what 2 points on the car connect to the receiver crystal so that we can put a baby crystal holder and use futaba crystals or something? when taking apart the multi controller, i saw the crystals and they look like common rc car futaba trans crystals. 4 of them were soldered to the board. this would be the most ultimate mod of all, more frequencies!!!!!!! does it work this way? b
hey, i’ll probably race tonight or at least try it out. peace. b
what about finding a battery that gives a similar 5 minute run time, but is smaller/lighter? anything over 5 minutes for competition is hard because we have many racers and only 4 channels. if you charge a batt that lasts 15 minutes. the heats will be waay long. also, will our current chargers be able to charge the nimh batts correctly? b
ooh. can anyone figure out one that uses the original charger, but modifies just the electronics because i have a feeling i’ll forget the car on the charger and have more spare parts. b
:smiley3:Sorry, but I don’t think I’m going to buy 600 (enough for a minimum order) 1/3AAA NiCD batteries. My fleet isn’t going to get that big. :smiley8:
hey mcojoc. never got to test its range yet.i have high hope for the range being way better, but the question is if the antenna or the electronicsin the multi controller were the culprit for the poor range. although my multi was working fine, just a little shorter than the normal controller, i want it to be better of course. peace b
this is my 2 cents worth
Good idea with the dip switch. I had the same idea, but they come in blocks of 4 switches at least. Good idea to cut them apart. I guess you end up destroying some, but I guess you can get at least 4 switches from a single 8 switch block.
Another benefit of having an on/off switch is that you can charge one car while using another with the same frequency if it is wired properly (still need the battery connected to the charging points).
That is really cool.
Using the rope as a barrier provides an ultra portable instant track for where ever the urge to race takes you.
Liked your jumps too!
-Floyd
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