Admin

[Admin]

I like the spring idea. I’ll have to try that. I’m guessing the springs go over the big diameter so the small diameter can still go through the upper hole all the way? Do the springs make the landing bouncy or what? I have some rather large jumps that require a soft suspension. With the stock suspension bar they seem to bounce too much and the small jumps the nose pops up. I took my stock suspention bar and shaved it down to extra soft and now it lands the jumps perfectly. Do you have any jumps that you’ve tried the springs on? Does it bounce much?

Here’s some pics of my jumps and Track.

http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/bitjump.html

http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/bittrack.html

-Peter

[Admin]

Let’s see…I knew about the terret control and IR gun. I didn’t know about the screen on the controller…that means that the tank transmits back to the controller. Cool. I heard somewhere that when you get hit, your tank slows some until you get hit enough times to completely disable it. Don’t know how true that is. At first I thought the IR beams would be boring (especially since you can’t really hide from the people controlling the other tanks). But if they slowly disable and have a slow firing capability (“reload time”), it could be fun. I think they are working on a bit version that I heard shoots BBs. Now that could be fun…but then you have to reload.

Yup, seen the helos, but I’d be affraid to try one of those…I’m still not very profficient with the RC cars :smiley2: I saw them on the sigmaautomotive site. I don’t think they have them yet, but I think there are camera kits available for them too.

Cool box full of fun toys. I like the holder for the motors. I have a small tackle box to put parts in and I’m going to make a case for the cars/controllers/parts. Of course, I’ve been saying that for a while. Today I need to mow the lawn and get materials to build a shed…so no Bits tonight :smiley6:

[Admin]

Yes, It took a lot of time and patients but it was worth it. It is soooo fund to drive. The tires are hard so it spins out well on hard floors but they have deep tread on them so theyclimb over rope or pens if you have built up speed.

I’ve thought about awd but it would be quite dificult to make front wheel steering and drive that small. The carhas a hard enough timesteering now. Iimagine with an axle up front it wouldn’t steer at all. I’m sure it could be done but, wow, what a job.

-Peter

[Admin]

You are a Sick…sick dude.

God Bless Ya!

Awsome.

-Floyd

ps. Post a damn movie of it in action.

[Admin]

WOW! You must have a LOT of time on your hands to do all this stuff.

Can I make a mod request? AWD bits Then we can have some real fun with the WRX, Skyline,and EVO.

[Admin]

Also, bend your remote antenna straight up and down. It’s not nearly as effictive when curled up in a big half circle. And point it straight up and down.

Make sure you have Fresh Alkaline batteries in it. NO RECHARGEABLES! Rechargeables are only 2.4V per pair where as alklines are 3V. Big differnce in transmission power!

-Peter

[Admin]

Try the Cat-5 car antenna mod. It almost doubled my range.

-Peter

[Admin]

NiMH battery kick butt. I used my plug in charger to charge this batter up and charged it for 2.5 minutes and the current was still over 300mA. The car was more peppy then I ever had seen it before and stayed that way for 3 minutes. Then it slowed down to regular speed and lasted for another 6 minutes driving with throttle on constantly using 2.2 motor. This battery kicks butt! I?m sure you?ll have to charge it on you remote at least 4 times to get similar results but may not since the remote charger doesn?t peak the batter like my desktop AC charger.

-Peter

[Admin]

Hehe! Cool you found his site! Yeah, I was the one who sent him all those pics of the Japanese new toy convention, with the digiq tanks and subs! you know those tanks are 4 channel! The other two channels control the turret direction, and the IR gun. You need 2 tanks to fight with each other (obviously). And the IR shooting is just like “laser tag”. There is a little screen on your control that indicated you have been hit. Whats not clear is if your tank gets disabled or not. The subs are 4 channel too. And the super controllers are available now, but you probably already knew about that one.

Anyway ive incleded a photo on my carrying case (just a tackle box really). But i remembered the motors were in the pic in the little foam pincushion thingy. Not the clearest pic but the the pink one is bottom left, and the dark blue one is top right, above the light blue 1.0 motor.

Anyway, have you seen the keyence palm sized helicopters! they are $500USbut man! just imagine the possibilities! you can fly that thing in your room and land it on your palm! wayyyy cool! email me and ill send you pics or just search the web for keyence.

[Admin]

Yes–27 MHz and 49 MHz will be the frequencies for MicroSizers.

[Admin]

if your problem is slow starts… its just like that. They were designed for bitracers only. thats why the part no begins with S and not G. It requires a push start according to the tomy website. If that isnt your problem, then sorry for this irrelevant post! hehe

[Admin]

yah got that URL wrong… http://www.stomper4x4.com/minirc:smiley2:

Yup, I’ve got that one in my Favorites list. That’s the first place I saw pictures of the Combat DigiQs.

I probably won’t be buying any motors, so don’t bother. I just figured others might be interested. Understand about the not wanting to post the address though. I’m sure they wouldn’t mind the business, but they might get flooded with other questions too. Maybe you can ask him if he has a web site you can post.

[Admin]

You can also use CD labels. They sell these everywhere. They sell the white kind and Clear ones too. I’ve used these for stickers before and they work great. You can buy some that are lazer safe and some that are made for ink jets too.

-Peter

[Admin]

put a little (and i mean very little) bit of silicone lube on the shaft where it goes into the motor case and a dropin the middle ofthe back plastic piece where the rotor sticks through.

It made a big difference on mine

-Peter

[Admin]

If you don’t want to point the remote at the car here’s what you do. TAKE OFF THE BLACK LED COVER. Take the remote all apart by unscrewing all screws. There are 2 screws hiding under the little swiveling cylinder that holds the batteries in. remove the black plastic piece that covers the front and put it back together. Now you don’t have to point it and it’s range improves quite a bit.

I cut the little rectangle holes in the cover open so I can snap the cover on and off since it’s ugly when it’s off.

I like the glue Idea. I would try that but I don’t have a steering problem yet.

Check out my Custom Flame Job, Racing Stripe and Custome Wheels! Yes that’s right. Custom ful function wheels! I’d be happy to share how if anyone’s interested.

http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/digi.html

http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/digi2.html

Peter

[Admin]

Got it from a guy named JO from HK. He sells em for $11 each. Sorry I didnt mention any info on where its from but you buy from him directly and I got his email from a friend. So I didnt want to just post his email up. didnt seem appropriate since its his “personal email” im assuming. Anyway, ill be glad to share it. just email me and ill send it to ya. Met him thru a friend named Mick who runs the stomper website.

http://www.stomper4x4.com/microrc/

thats it. sorry for being so secretive. not intentional.

jay

deejay40 at aol dot com

[Admin]

No problem. Just more evidence that we need a FAQ at the top of the discussions to cover all these things.

[Admin]

I was told that only freqs betw 27 & 35 mhz were allowable in the US for RC modeling. So i assumed that the 2 freqs would be 27 & 35. Is the 49 mhz for the US release?

[Admin]

Ok, I’ll bite. Where did you get these magic motors? You know you can’t throw stuff like that out there without some useful info :smiley2:

[Admin]

Sorry, I’m New

[Admin]

Yawn :smiley12: Sorry, but that’s been known for months.

[Admin]

I think that’s pretty safe to assume.

[Admin]

That should be correct. The only difference between the bodies appear to be that the “complete sets” (cars & controllers) of the MicroSizers have the windows painted black–like the OEM Bullets. I’m working on scoring a MicroSizer from Hobbico to evaluate and report on for The Admiral’s Lair, and according to their PR person, I should have one in late June. I’m trying to get ahold of a 49MHz car to make sure there’s no cross-talk with the 45 MHz (and just because I really want one :smiley4:).

Since Hobbico is planning on selling all of the hop-up parts, as well (engines, tires, gears, etc.), it’s highliy unlikely they’d do anything beyond changing the packaging. Everything should be cross-compatible.

[Admin]

funny, I cant get the white gear to fit with my bitracer axles! there is too much play betw them! I am running bitracer axles with the black gear and a motorola pager motor. the motor runs betw 2.4 – 2.6.

You can easily mod the bitracer axles with a sharp exacto knife/blade. just lay the blade down on the spacer at the appropriate place on the rightrim spacerof the axle, and roll it back and forth slowly on a mouse pad or sumthing, and slowly apply pressure. slices it right off! Then you just slice the loose ring you just created off with the exacto knife.

also, you can remove you suspension bar completely and replace it with springs from a japanese type mechanical pen. just cut the springs to size and slide them right on the vertical part of the front axles. (requires taking apart your front axle assembly.

hope you can pull off your dual motors! love to see that!

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/fly.one/charg/index.html

[Admin]

Hobby Link Japan has a few Epoch assesories:

http://www.hlj.com/pages/AutN.html

[Author]

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