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The nissan CALSONIC carolina blue skyline is out. cool huh?
peep my modifieds here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/fly.one/charg/index.html
Agree with above.
That is a F A T ride man!
-Floyd
I found the site that I saw the info originally.. it was from a link on Derek’s post of sites covering the 2002 Toy show.
http://www.watch.impress.co.jp/game/docs/20020509/tgs3.htm
There’s pics of the Digi-Q Formula, Combat, and some other cool stuff.
The “speed boats”, now that I look at them again don’t seem to be a Takara Micro IR series toy. Sure wish I could read japanese!!
Concur. In fact, one of my two bullets has the EXACT SAME paint job! But those specs are WAAAAAY off. No way it has a range of 15 m! It’s closer to 15 cm :smiley2:
Hi Guys,
My first post – here goes.
It is the Bullet Bit Char-G cars. I went to their website and found it there with some additional images. The last one is the packaged unit ….. it’s the same Bullet cars as seen at ToyEast.com
Excellent site BTW – one day all bit char-g sites will be as good as this.
Cheers,
Martin
…or lack thereof. :smiley13:
Yeah, I noticed the yellow headlights and thought the bars looked different, but couldn’t quite tell. Must be that lighting thing :smiley2:
I’ve got a Nikko iRacer (DigiQ knock off). It’s ok, but I like my Bits better. Sure it has proportional steering, but the steering still sucks. There’s too much lag. Speed? Who cares? Speed is nothing without control.
I do like the improvements that Nikko did to the controller design. It has a built-in compartment for the car that is also the charging area. The steering wheel is on the back of the gun so the steering is a little more natural whan pointing the remote at the car. Also, the angle you can use the remote at is like 180 degrees! I don’t need to point the remote at the car.
…that’s not an antenna! Somebody dropped a toothpick!
And if you ask me (which nobody ever does–sniff!), it’s more than a passing similarity to the OEM cars. The wheels/tires even look like OEM/Bit Char-G to me.
For what it’s worth, there is a Bit Char-G FAQ up on The Admiral’s Lair. It’s short and basic, but it’s a starting point, till Derek gets his finished version up.
Yeah. It’s too bad my lousy, cheap, so-and-so camera won’t focus so good. Or I had better lighting. Or (insert excuse here). Anyways, I used a purple metal-fleck paint on the clear body. It looks great, but it also emphasizes the importance of using primer before doingpaint work like this–which I didn’t(d’oh!). If you remove the body and hold it up to the light, you can see through it pretty well. Fortunately, this isn’t evident when it’s attached to the chassis.
I also gave it the yellow headlights/foglights and gold trim/rollbars for the “street” look.
Thanks for the kudos, ylexot!
Hey Derek/Aaron, maybe you should write up a FAQ for all the n00bs. I don’t know if you can do this on these forums, but on another forum, they can make a topic “sticky” so that it is always at the top of the discussion list.
DROOOOOOOOL!
Zero – I personally don’t care for many of the mods that I’ve seen (I just stay quiet), but that is sweet! I’m not a big purple car fan, but it looks good and those stripes are great. Makes it look a little meaner than if it was just a purple car.
The decals are finally available for download on The Admiral’s Lair, but I haven’t had an opportunity to put together directions for them yet.
Hobby shops should stock clear decal paper. They’re supposedly designed to work with laser printers or inkjet printers, but my results with inkjet printers were less than acceptable. It may have been just my printer (that’s a strong possibility, in fact), but the images didn’t really imprint onto the decal surface all that well, and the ink hadn’t dried after over two hours. So I would recommend a color laserjet, if at all possible. The company that makes the clear wet-transfer decal sheets does have a website, and it’s listed in another post here on AUSMICRO, but I don’t have it in front of me right now.
Always make sure you use some sort of clearcoat to protect the decals, too. I just used Testors Glosscote, and that worked fine.
“can younpleasse show me how did u mod it into a pugeot please i wanna learn”
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Aquila, I guess your mod isn’t very good :smiley2:
icemansRC – He STARTED with a Pugeot! It’s a Ford Fucus now (oops, I misspelled it :smiley2:). The Pugeot is an OEM Bullet car that you can get from toyeast.
try the cripple capacitor mod
yep, just did it. my 1 minute summary is up with pics of why you would do it. the old antenna is way longer which SHOULD equal better range. cehck out my page. b
okay, i dod the antenna swap. pics and a lame 1 minute summary and pics are up. basically the old antenna is a good deal longer than the multi controllers one. the swap is easy. yank out old dial putit in new controller and use the new antenna tip as it can be split apart and glues together. b
dang I like my digi Q, haven’t tried a bit char g yet, but I have the Initial D with a 3.0 motor on it’s way.
About the “hard to keep straight” issue on the digi Q. I made mine a bit more controllable. First i used a couple layers of tissue paper inbetween the rear wheels and the gear, but that made it too tight and the wheels wouldn’t move. So I used some elmers glue and glued the rear wheel to the gear. I used elmers glue, so this would cause no permanent damage to the car, I could just rub the glue off if it didn’t work. But anyways gluing the wheel to the gear worked It got rid of the play inbetween the wheel and gear, thus making the car go straight. I also lubed the gears a little to make it run a smoother and quiter. Didn’t make it that much quite, but it runs smoother.
Im most likely going to try to open the controller and see what i can do with replacing the old antenna into the new controller. I don’t think it will be hard at all and im almost positive it will help because the bit antenna is almost twice as long and i dont mind that. Dave
Yea it is 15 USD, and the site is toyeast.com. You get a car that is almost identical to the bit just well you can put it as a generic bit that they really cannot call a toyotas but rather thay call a WRC or GTR and made with non-interchangable parts with the bit. But the steering can be taken out and put in the bit and i heard the steering on them is a bit shorter so that the bit turns a little better after put in. I dunno i will try soon! Dave
Guitar strings hey.. well my brother plays guitar I’ll ask him about those strings when he gets back and how much they’d be thanks.
Shard
is that $15 USD?
I hope not :), although it might also solve my steering problem hmm.
Where would I order OEM cars from to get to Australia?
Shard
Ok i went looking for new bit sites and found some japanese ones which one had some guy buy yamaha guitar strings. He got like ultra fine and super fine like i think i twas labeled .08 and .09 strings and from the looks of it, it showed he fixed it. You can possibly try that. Dave
Where do you buy “clear decal sheets”? Can you buy these at hobby shops? Do they work with standard inkjet printers?
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