Admin

[Admin]

If your in the US you could try these ppl

http://www.jaysraceplace.com/decals.htm

Or in the UK

http://www.professormotor.com/pmdecals.html

[Admin]

Just tested “pump charging”,

I charged the first time, and the charging light goes off after 53 sec ( not 45 sec ), and charge for the second time, it turns out after just a brief 6 or 7 sec so. Is it normal ?

Then I keep the car at “racing”, which the car ran non-stopping around a circuit, the car ran with perfect respond until around 9 min, then started struggling in turning while run, ( the front wheels had difficults in turning while the car was in motion ), I came close and shorten the range between remote and the car, the control was better, and the total time it ran was over 13 min.

I gonna try charge more and test different kinds of battery ( like rechargable ones ) for the remote to see and differents.

[Admin]

Yeah – bring on the Combat Digi Qs!! W0000T!!!!

Derek

[Admin]

Hey iceman

From my own experience, a DigiQ is faster than any of the 9.86:1 geared Char-Gs right up to the Micro B 2.2 motor. A 9.86:1 2.6 Char-G is pretty much on par with the Digi Q, and a 3.0 (Lucifer) motor powered G will whoop the Q once it gets reved up.

The big issue here is gearing and the motor used. Your GT-R R34 with 3.0 and the 8.25:1 gearing will be a little sluggish off the line, but there’s not a Digi Q alive that will keep up to it after the first 30cm (1′ of straight line). :smiley4:

Derek

[Admin]

can younpleasse show me how did u mod it into a pugeot please i wanna learn

[Admin]

LOL! (on the smoke question :smiley2:)

To be drifting with the Char-Gs you need the special drift axle/gear which is available in the GS-04 parts set (shown below in the top RH corner of the clear plastic section):

To get white smoke while you’re drifting you’ll need to somehow feed 12volts to the motor and get it burning. You’re on your own doing that :smiley2:

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

I picked up P307 Stripes & Flames. For reference, the “M” shaped pinstripe, below the flags on the pictured sheet (that looks gold, but is actually white), is right about 2.5 cm across. The perfect width, but just ahair long to fit on the hood of a Toyota bB. Fortunately, all the other Bit Char-G cars seem to have longer hoods than the bB.

And the white stripes look really, really good on the purple bB. I’m still unable to hook my camera to the computer, but once I do, you’ll get the idea. :smiley4:

I’ve been taking pictures of the bB shell from its start as a clear body, to its finish with clearcoat. Once the camera issue is resolved, I’ll be posting an article on The Admiral’s Lair.

[Admin]

Errrmmmm….. problem solved, guys.

Having pulled what limited hair that I have out, I found the source of the problem. Seems that last time I pulled the car apart (to photograph some of the internals) I must have accidentally dropped a tiny metal offcut (eg waste from a trimmed electronic) into the circuit board bay.

Oooops. :smiley9:

Back to regular programing!

Derek

[Admin]

Fantastic! What sheet did you buy (ref http://www.pinecar.com/items.cfm?ItemSubCatID=6#)? Can you give me an example of one of the logos and it’s measurements(eg P317 – NASCAR in centre – x.xx” x x.xx”)? Much appreciated!

I’m guessing these “Pinewood Derby Cars” are a bit of an American childhood tradition? Never heard of them down here. Not having much luck finding an online shop that would ship these things to Oz, either.

If one of you US-based guys are ordering, and don’t mind me “piggybacking” some stuff with your order (posted by you to Australia), please drop me an email. Aranging an international money order or bank draft in USDfor $10-$15 is prolly going to be relatively expensive, so I could perhaps do a contra with you with items from down here? Just let me know….

Thanks (and well-spotted, ZeroBXU!)

Derek

[Admin]

yes we are here!

I’m mainly intrested in the Digi-Q’s over the Char-G’s due to thier longer charge. They also seem (as I don’ thave one YET) to be more consistant with thier output performance. I hear lots of story’s of the G’s having Varied performance.. even with the same gear, tired, frequency.. still varied performance. I do like the G’s more “realistic” look whereas the Digi-Q’s are MORE superdeformed. I think I’ll get a Char-G first, then a Digi-Q. I do like the DIGITAL control of the Digi-Qs though.. and I CAN’T wait for the COMBAT DIGI-Q.. woo hoo

[Admin]

Just to echo that idea of “pump charging” – before racing I *always* repeat-charge the car 3 or 4 times. The difference in runtime is extraordinary.

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

To mcojoc:

I gonna try your charging method to see any differents !

[Admin]

I totally agree. My Digi-Q has an on/off switch and I don’t see a difference between first time play and warmed up play because I turn it off after use keeping the battery conditioned. I switch is a good idea. I’ll see what I can come up with.

I read somewhere that someome thought a solar cell out of a calculator might make the car last longer. Well, maybe not but I’m sure it would keep the battery from going dangerously dead! I think I’ll check what voltage those things put out.

sounds like I have a lot of playing to do this weekend.

-Peter

[Admin]

THANK YOU DEREK AND AARON.

This chat site is Awesom. I think I speak for all of us when I say THANK YOU for all your efforts on keeping this site up.

-Peter

[Admin]

the 4 band controllers are getting a bad rep, but you have to try waiting it out a few charges.

– mine works fine and always worked good. maybe a few feet less reception.

– a guy that races with us got his and it only had 2 feet of reception and sometimes it would’nt even catch at all, BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! he kept trying it for a few charges and it works way better. not quite as strong as the regular controller, but just enough to reach the end of our big tracks. you gotta remember that the cars have nicad batts that suck and have memory problems. if the car had an on/off switch (hmmm, new idea), the battery would last longer and probably be more consistent. ever notice how the car gets faster as the night/day goes on with every charge? imagine if you had a 1/10 scale rc car and never disconnected the battery and never turned the speedcontrol switch off, it would drain the batt to a bad level. this is probably what is happening to the BCG and is causing weird problems.

just my.05 cents. (i don’t like pennies USD)

ps. anyone know people on the Goldsfields Giants B-Ball team?

[Admin]

i have a two race tin (Tyco Canned Heat).

chevy 57 and mitsubishi pajero wrc

my bit char is coming …….

[Admin]

hey, glad i could help.

the BCQ still steers on/off. (it still seems that way) the problem is that the lag between the controller and car makes serious racing difficult. an example is when i come up to a turn, and let off the throttle and turn, the car is actually still accelerating for a second(or fraction) too late and makes the car push, then when the car stops accelerating and the brakes (adjustable) kicks in, the car hooks into the rest of the turn. (due to the unloading of weight to the front) i tried lessening the brakes, but it coasts too far. like i said before, if this hadlittle or nolag, then i would highly recommend it, but for now, i gotta see.

yes, the cover fits, but a little modification is needed. the board sits a little too far to the rear and keeps the little tabs from latching under the chassis. i tried shifting the board and bending the 2 black caps that also push the board back, and got it to fit, but then i noticed i broke the steering wires and proceeded to F up my car from there. good thing i gave my GF a AE86 set, because she gave me her car to do it again. for now, (and probably forever) the board sits under saran wrap taped to the chassis.

the battery lasts as long as a 1.0 motor BCG. and when i turn up the speed, whooa. the thing moves. thank goodness for proportional throttle, but the lag has gots to go. peace b.

ps. nice smooth forum and accompanying sections.

pps. anyone with rally track pics yet?

[Admin]

Reality schmeality. I’m doing it!!!!! Weather it works or not isto be determined but IT WILL BE DONE!

-Peter

[Admin]

Thanks Suckabeast. I’m going to the hobby store again today so I’ll ask for sticker for you. As for tinted windows, I’ll see if they have any spray paint for that. I remember using pray on tint on my RC-10. It came in a regular can. I’ll pick some up for you if they have it.

[Admin]

hmmm…interesting.

Happy

Sad

Happy

Happy

Sad

Sad

[Admin]

Good luck Peter! Hope this becomes a reality!:smiley2:

[Admin]

Hello. Anyone out there?

[Admin]

Welcome BDrift – it’s great to have you on the forums! Your site was one of the first Char-G sites thatI looked at when I was researching the purchase of my firstBit Char-G!

Ooops…..carrying on like a starstruck fan :smiley2:

The Char-Q mod has interested me for a while – a couple of quick questions, if I may:

• I know the mod offers proportional throttle – what about proportional steering? Can’t see how, seeing that the Char-G front end is a simple on/off electromagnet system.
• What is used to cover the new circuit board when it is installed? I’m assuming the standard cover no longer fits?

[/list]

Just finally, when I saw this image – http://www.endlesswaltz.net/bdrift/Dscf0073.jpgI just about cried :smiley2:Oh the heartache…..

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

Prabbit

OMG! Dual motors?! Monster trucks?! I want whatever you’re on. :smiley2:

FANTASTICIDEAS! – as Mcojoc said, I’ll also be watching with great interest! WHoo00o0o0o0o!

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

The answer is no, Dirk :smiley6:

Slightly different frequencies and codes withing the frequencies. The best you’ll achieve is a car that turns left-right OK, but forward-reverse will be switched around (making it almost impossible to drive!)

Derek

[Author]

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