Admin

[Admin]

It’s definately not my doing – it could be your p(r)oxy server at the ISP end playing with your mind – it can happen to make things like that happen …

I’m back on deck – but snowed under catching up with work stuff. Will be on the case of the site during the day tomorrow!

Ok so I have a stack of stuff to get quotes for etc but I’m sure I can fit in some edit and fix time!

Aaron

[Admin]

Think i’ll log onto e-bay and see about getting myself some gears + suspension set.

Unless anyone cantell me where i can order these from cheaper ?

[Admin]

Yeah – the issue MIGHT be not having enough room to really let the 3.0 motor run right out (would explain a speed issue – but not intermittent operation).

Remember, the 2.6 and 3.0 lack the punchy acceleration of the 1.0 –> 2.2 motors. You might pull some better results using a shorter gear ratio.

Cheers

[Admin]

Yeah, ive not really had the room to test but i’m fairly sure that my RX7 with the 2.2 is faster than the skyline with the 3.0. not sure if it has anything to do with gear ratio ? didnt check the boxs to see what they came wiith.

Perhaps changing the gear would solve the torque prblem ?

[Admin]

Hey ya, GTVOLV

You’re not on the “Swedish Bricks” mailing listor aus.cars newsgroupby chance, are you? Keep an eye out for a fellow called “Forg!” – a good friend of mine who is building a killer 240. Oh….. 1:1 scale He’s just up to the manifold/exhaust stage at the moment. You can see some of his progress at this page

But, I digress….. You were asking about those Char-G Volvos. Bad news, mate- they’re all custom builds using modeller’s clay and a LOT of patience/practice!

Cheers

Derek
(Non-Volvo Person…just for the record)

[Admin]

what number is the capacitor on the board?

ryan

[Admin]

any thoughts?should i clip the post and risk it? and where is the capacitor? is there only one? i don’t like being all sly when sending stuff back, but i don’t think anyone would know if i tried clipin a post on the capacitor and then if that didn’t work sending it back anyway.

ryan

[Admin]

Gee I took a more destructive slant to modifieing my body. The first victim (I mean subject!) Was a 97’ish Dodge ram pickup slot car body from Johnny lightnings new thunderbirds collection (4.95!!) I cut the bed off and shortened, and then reaglued to the cab. Much cutting (dremmiling?) had to be done to the wheel wells. Then I had to cut a mounting slot into the front bumper and the rear. I primed it today, and layed one coat of testers yellow to it. It will need a few more coats, as all the sharp edges still show primer grey. The body fits nice and as soon as the paint is presentable I willpost a picture. The second poor body to ravage was the original booster car clear nissan body. I want to make a replica of my 89 trans am GTA so I slopped Lotsa plastic model putty on the front and back and that mess is now drying, and probably will take some time to dry due to my liberal use of the stuff on the body (picture a Bit body with lotsa grey toothpast on the front and back of it. Im not scared to do this as I have some clay modeling history and Im sure I can pull this off (dan looks at the poor little body) I better pull this off or that body is MESSED UP!!

dan

[Admin]

I have tried 3 3.0’s in my booster car……nothing. I put them in a friends regular car and it moves ok, but not as fast as the 2.2 motor that came with the car. Dunno whats up.

dan

[Admin]

ok don’t worry about this post. I opened up the front assembly of the car and found a damn staple stuck to the magnet. So i was somewhat glad that i found the problem until when i tried to putthe carback together, i noticed that right turn and left turn and the antenna solders all fell out. Better go get my solder gun out and start soldering. See ya, Dave

[Admin]

Quote:

my wrx is the one that didn’t have as much range as it had heart.?

it now goes about 5 to 6 feet before stuttering…

The same happened here with a 57MHz white wrx. The problem lies in the

remote control, not the car: in certain units there’s a capacitor

soldered inside the remote, between two resistors; removing that part

(by unsoldering it, or by clipping one or both the “legs”), everything

works fine. As a sidenote, I opened another (perfecly working) 57MHz

unit and the capacitor was not present..

[Admin]

I have most of these logos as vectored artwork. Including some others

right from the companies. (Perks of working for an Advertisment/Imprinting

firm). I’ve added some cleaner verision(of logos)to my copy of Derek’sset.

If anyone needs any, I put them all together in a ZIP archive. I’ll just save them as EPS’s. Which can be imported into all kinds of design/art programs. And will be resolution independent.

[Admin]

Derek,

I’ve tried 2 differant 3.0 motors both of which work in the other car.

Next time i see my friend i’m going to try a 3rd 3.0 motor, if that works then all is well and good, but to be honest i’m probably going to buy a booster set any way so hopefulyl that wont have the same problem.

Freeman

[Admin]

Lookin’ sharp!!!

I noticed that, with my blue WRX, paint readily sticks to the wheels (as opposed to the regular “chromed” wheels). Hitting the wheels with a gold paint marker really adds a sharp touch to it.

Derek–can you give me a photo for The Admiral’s Lair gallery (or go over and post it–even better!)?

[Admin]

i cannot seem to find the sigma automative site. how do u find them?

ryan

[Admin]

i have never seen tower hobbies sell anything non legit, i have ordered from them 3 times for my hpi nitro rs4 car getting extra parts after running it into cars and walls and stuff. goes 45mph and i was hoping that the bit charg would be like that on a smaller scale. I really hope they aren’t rippin off the bit charg but i really doubt it knowing their catalogs and how they give props to everyone they show.

ryan

[Admin]

If you’re talking about the Initial D: Project D set (with the Trueno and yellow RX-7), it’s from the manga and anime called “Initial D“. Without going into too much detail, Initial D is about Japanese street racing. The anime is great because they use CG for the race scenes. Good stuff. I highly recommend it. To purchase the anime (with English subtitles), check out http://www.getvcds.com. I’ve purchased from them several times before. Initial D has been licensed to the U.S., but they’re still in the process of dubbing it.

If you’re talking about the ODM cars, that’s something different entirely–and I didn’t see an RX-7 in their line-up. The original post on those has lots of information, and it’s not prudent repeat it here.

If you’re in the U.S. (and they’re not completely out of stock), I recommend using Sigma Automotive for ordering Bit Char-G. I’ve made three orders with them, and can’t say enough good things about their service. You might even ask them if they’ll take some kind of trade-in on your defective WRX. It’s never taken them more than four business days to ship me anything.

[Admin]

HobbyLink Japan has them listed in their upcoming products, but don’t have the button there to pre-order. It’s on the same page as their other upcoming Bit Char-G products (Supra, NSX, etc.).

Maybe they’ll just completely replace the 1.0 with the 1.6 in their car sets. I can’t see them issuing new cars (Supra, etc.) with the 1.0. Of course, I can’t see aSupra with anything short of a 2.6–but that’s just me.

[Admin]

Oh bugger! Looks like they had to cover the cost of a big rebranding/repacking exercise somehow!

[Admin]

BTW…. just went off to see if I could find any other point of contact for TOMY Japan. Only page is this http://www.tomy.co.jp/inquire.htmwhich is 100% Japanese

Derek

[Admin]

Rye

I’d really encourage you to liaise with that eBay vendor if he/she was representing a shop. They are in the best position to get the car fixed/swapped out for you.

I wouldn’t go making any other tweaks etc to the car until you hear from them (just in case they try to accuse you of tampering with it).

On the other had, if you really want to have a go at contacting TOMNY directly, make sure you have brushed up on your Japanese as they only provide support via telephone (yup – no email)

Tokyo Customer Support Centre
Telephone +81 3 36931031
Hours :8am to10pm Mon-Fri

Osaka Customer Support Centre
Telephone +81 7 2638-1811
Hours :8am to10pm Mon-Fri

Good luck…. let us all know what the outcome is.

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

Freeman

Unfortunately I don’t have a definitiveanswer for you one way or another

It sounds suspiciously like a dodgy motor to me. Remember – the windings inside these things are TINY. The margin for error is also TINY. They’re made in a small factory in Tangshan, China (enough said?)

I’d contact whoever you bought it from, explain the situation, and seek a replacement unit.

Let us know what happens, OK?

[Admin]

That’s the best Red Bull logo I’ve seen. Thanks for the info.

[Admin]

For the Red Bull logo, how about the one at this site?

http://www.redbull-yamaha.com/

Darryl

[Admin]

UPDATE!

It looks like a place by the name of Tower Hobbies is already selling them. And they’re $40 USD. That’s not a better price, it’s worse.

Here’s the hyperlink to their “Microsizers” catalog page.

[Author]

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