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that track is amazing, truely inspirational. just wodering, those insulating foam sheets used in the track, where do think i could find them? i was gonna use the normal packaging foam for my track but that stuff looks heaps better to work with.

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nice looking shells there hachi! some clean work there. oh by the way how do you post pics in the forums? still dont noe how.

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they work a treat for me, i was doubtful at first about using the cheap paints too but i tried the silver one out for my r32 shell (members gallery) and its great, been buying them ever since. the only thing that i can find bad about them is that they dont have many metalic colours, silver gold and chrome. i use car touch up paints if i want metalic colours which are also good but more expensive. i find that the touch up paints are alot thicker and i need to shake the can heaps and soak it in warmish water before spraying. the $2 paints are alot easier for me.

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I’m in Pa, USA – The jeep is a cannonball and I got it from Modells in New York and New Jersey for $7.99 US. The hummer came from a kids store in a mall in Pa for $10.99 US. The charger takes 3AAA batts. Its cool just for the charger. The controller for both says Bensu so I guess Bensu and Cannonball are the same. They run like crap though. No torque and the front wheels on the jeep bend every which way which affects the running. I did an internal dual on the hummer, more room inside than a zip, but still no torque (no matter what motor I use). I’ll probably send them to MIcroAmps. But they have a lot of potential (the bodies anyway).

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I’m in Pa, USA – The jeep is a cannonball and I got it from Modells in New York and New Jersey for $7.99 US. The hummer came from a kids store in a mall in Pa for $10.99 US. The charger takes 3AAA batts. Its cool just for the charger. The controller for both says Bensu so I guess Bensu and Cannonball are the same. They run like crap though. No torque and the front wheels on the jeep bend every which way which affects the running. I did an internal dual on the hummer, more room inside than a zip, but still no torque (no matter what motor I use). I’ll probably send them to MIcroAmps. But they have a lot of potential (the bodies anyway).

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cheers talldude< ill have a look around after the weekend.

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hey talldude i like your track and im starting to build one of my own, the foam stuff is a good idea but i was wondering where you got it from. im thinking of using some of it my self, did you get it from a craft store? and how much?
if any one else can point me in the right direction that would be great.
cheers!

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hello there,
i have a: a tomy bit char-g with controller.
i’ll give you a set of tomy 3 gears (high, low and medium),
a set of tomy 3 tyres (soft, medium, hard),
and 3 motors (tomy 2.6, LXX 3.0, japanese perfection 3.8)
and 4 batterys (2x150mah and 2x80mah – that will give you plenty for the dual cell mod).
i’ll also giev you 3 body shells – a LXX grey one with blue stripes, LXX clear one for self painting, and Tomy yellow racing sports car.
please emial me your offers at:
gpman400@yahoo.co.uk
i will swap for a digi q r complete with controller.
cheers for now.

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i will have one made by friday. neoprene rubber werks best small twist tye wires to hold in place

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neeed mosfett done asap

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LOL thats a great idea actually!

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I had a buggy with that same chassis but it was called Sand Skorcher, had a baja bug body on it, was an awsome car in its day!:)

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Merry christmas from Texas!

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oh by the way i got the best xmas prezzie ever, my results from the TEE exams, aint that just dandy!

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aint that the truth, you never get what you really want unless santa asks ya, the best prezzies are from your self. but i can tell ya this years spending really put a dent in my wallet, bought me girlfriend a new sound system which cost me pretty penny or two. that should keep her happy for a while.

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thanks betty.k and imprezza, finnaly got some pics uploaded. its my first real paint job im happy with, check it out.

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some pretty nice shots you got there though z-beam, the shell dont look half bad either.

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yep definitely an echo, probabl one of those turbo gt echos i heard somewhere.

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looks like a toyota echo from the front to me, do have any shots of the back?

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hey impreza you said that you got some of your shells from HAVOK off Bithed, just wondering whats the price tagon em?

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this may sound silly, but how do upload pics in the galleries ive been trying a few times but cant get it to work. anyway got a few picture of my own id like to show off. any help would be appreciated.

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will find out as soon as i get my hands on my friends enzo! i did get to have pretty good look at it though when he first bought it, im not too sure but on the controller i could press down on one of the black buttons it seems to have on the top. the back of the controller also had a swith labelled A and B, not sure what that does though. i asked him if it was a 2 speed but he didnt noe what i was talking about, i didnt have any batteries so i couldnt test out the lil baby. damn i wish i had one, the shell looks very nice, very detailed.

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Micro RC Center. It is a fairly popular American small-scale RC message board. oldtamiyaphile was one of the top contributors to that board until recently. He is a great loss to that community, but I’m sure will prove an asset to this one.

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Hi! I just recently started doing the same thing. I am using a 1000 ma 3-12V and I am not using a resistor and am charging a single cell 150 mah for about 2 1/2 minutes. I have charged several times and am happy with the results. I tried 3 1/2 min. but the battery got a little too warm and appeared to leak a little white stuff…, but is still working fine. I read somewhere else from some guys that did several tests that 1000 ma was the best at charging our micros.

Quote:

i was wondering if i need to add a resistor or something when carging from a 500 ma 3-12 V power adaptor. i’m charging nimh and nicad, and single cell and dual cell bcg’s. i’d like to be able to save using batteries if i can:8ball:

Edited by – HyperHat on 18 December 2003 11:48:26

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ph2t,

I am trying to follow what you did with the NTMS7N03R2 chips, but it appears the site you hosted the images on no longer exists. Could you please re-post them or e-mail me the pics. I would very much appreciate it. I just got some of these chips in the mail today…

Thanks so much!

Quote:

I wanted to find a FET that had an even lower Rds value than the FET made popular by this mod. The IRLML2502 has a typical value of 0.045 Ohms. I found this FET NTMS7N03R2 with a typical value of 0.023 Ohms. Half the Rds of the normal FET used!!! Cool! (In a very sad freakazoid sorta way…).

The package these NTMS7N03R2 is different to the ones normally used. So different in fact I’m gonna have to make a new PCB for ’em.

The FET is that little black package, I put a steering knuckle next to it to give you guys an idea of its size. On the right is the prototype track layout for the PCB.

Cause I don’t have the tools I’m gonna have to draw the track work onto the virgin copper PCB using a special reistive pen.

Now I let it dry for a few minutes then I put the PCB in some etching solution (basically an acid). After about 7 minutes all the uncovered copper is eaten away and I’m left with this:

Now to solder those FETs on.

Putting the FET board on the car

Now that the FET PCB is ready I need to connect it to the car. The car I’ve chosen to mod is an Lxx booster, the auto modellista one. First I’ve ripped the old transistors out and circled the area where I need to connect the FETs to in yellow.

After connecting the steering wires to the transistor pads circled above I then connected the FET PCB to the power terminals on the car PCB and then I removed the wires to the motor from the car and attached them to the FET PCB.

So the power wires go to the FET board, the steering wires (from the transistor pads, not the actual fine steering wires!) go to the FET PCB, BUT the motor is wired straight to the FET PCB.

That’s it. The only bugger is making the custom PCB, but I guess I could get the parts to do this fabrication using the PC instead of hand drawing it…..

I will post video of my testing ’cause I want to see how my own version of ths mod performs against the original German one. Just quickly I put the Lxx car on a cushion on my couch which is on an angle of about 50-60 degress. In un-boosted mode the car stood still and didn’t roll back. In boosted mode the @#$%^ acutally climbed the bloody cushion. More tests to follow.

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 14 June 2003 10:49:09

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