Admin

[Admin]

lizardmen arent even warhammer40k they are just warhammer
btw, painting them are just part of the hobby and if u dont have time to paint them, why did u collect them in the frist place

[Admin]

i love the boats at dreamworld, they’re slow but they are fun

[Admin]

i enjoy playing computer/console games such as Warcraft 3 and counter-strike. I am starting to collect Warhammer 40k. And there are others but i cant think of them right now

[Admin]

Where abouts is this track gonna be????

[Admin]

what about some of the tracks in gt2 or gt3?

[Admin]

simpsons fan all the way, also love anime. samurai x, initial d, naruto, zoids, ippo just to name a few.

[Admin]

BTW folks the booster cars now have the pads on the PCB for the crip cap.

I just started using the boost microSizers today, they refer to them as microSizer Pro’s.

[Admin]

BTW folks the booster cars now have the pads on the PCB for the crip cap.

I just started using the boost microSizers today, they refer to them as microSizer Pro’s.

[Admin]

yeah, they look real sweet! love the r32, be getting one soon. the blue r34 looks good too, can you buy them separately? looks much better than the other r34.

[Admin]

Also, check to see if the magnet is centered while under the hood.

I fixed a horrid problem with my steering by realigning the magnet.

regards.

[Admin]

Also, check to see if the magnet is centered while under the hood.

I fixed a horrid problem with my steering by realigning the magnet.

regards.

[Admin]

Gentlemen,

To fix the split lip … try this.

Drill a very small hole on either side of the slot. Use a small bit … I found one at the hardware store in a hand drill in the welding supply area. Not sure what the drill is used for but within the drill handle are a bunch of small drill bits … about the size of ones used to drill holes for PCBs. The hand drill looks like an Exacto knife.

Anyway … put a wire through the holes and twist to bring the split together.

NOW, if you drill too far forward then the body will not go on and if you drill too far back the heatsink lip will catch the wire (or not go in at all).

I have not tried my own advice, as I have not split the lip on any chassis, yet.

Another option would be to use JB Weld … this is strong FRILLIN’ stuff. I have never had any use for superglue.

(I hope the Aussies out there can appreciate the Farscape reference above.)

Later.

[Admin]

Quote:

I’ve started looking into the idea of changing the transistor in the RX stage of the car’s pcb with one that has a higher beta value (thanks b007a). We’ll see what happens.

One other thing I have noticed is that the straighter the car’s antenna (ie: nice and perpendicular to the ground) the better the distance achievable.

ph2t.

ph2t,

I was referring to the transistor in the transmitter. I don’t quite understand the super-regen circuit. I have searched the web for a good description and all the circuit topologies were different.

I was thinking that increasing the Q of the tank circuit would increase selectivity. I believe C3 in parallel with L2 is the tank circuit. From my research the Q is determined by the parasitic resistance in the inductor. I don’t think I am going to persue it though … don’t have any details on the inductor. If someone had some spare time might want to put a resistor in parallel with the inductor to reduce the parasitic resistance … the value is prolly pretty small.

Selectivity is not really a problem for me anymore … the car I was dinking with had too many problems. I could not tune it to a freq, in that car, far enough away from the standard values to be of any use. That car’s rcvr components were too close to the edge of usefulness.

Anyway … I got some of my cars away from the standard freq’s so the whole family can play at the same time (four microSizers, four freqs). I have to get back to the EE work that earns money or I will not be able to afford anymore stuff for this interesting hobby.

BTW: The OSC resistor (R9 in Rx & R3 in Tx) can be put in parallel with another 220kohm resistor to make sure the other cars don’t rcv the commands … not to say that the other cars are not jammed by the carrier … the other cars just don’t start acting on the commands. Some possibilities here … Jamming for one.

later dudes.

[Admin]

Quote:

I’ve started looking into the idea of changing the transistor in the RX stage of the car’s pcb with one that has a higher beta value (thanks b007a). We’ll see what happens.

One other thing I have noticed is that the straighter the car’s antenna (ie: nice and perpendicular to the ground) the better the distance achievable.

ph2t.

ph2t,

I was referring to the transistor in the transmitter. I don’t quite understand the super-regen circuit. I have searched the web for a good description and all the circuit topologies were different.

I was thinking that increasing the Q of the tank circuit would increase selectivity. I believe C3 in parallel with L2 is the tank circuit. From my research the Q is determined by the parasitic resistance in the inductor. I don’t think I am going to persue it though … don’t have any details on the inductor. If someone had some spare time might want to put a resistor in parallel with the inductor to reduce the parasitic resistance … the value is prolly pretty small.

Selectivity is not really a problem for me anymore … the car I was dinking with had too many problems. I could not tune it to a freq, in that car, far enough away from the standard values to be of any use. That car’s rcvr components were too close to the edge of usefulness.

Anyway … I got some of my cars away from the standard freq’s so the whole family can play at the same time (four microSizers, four freqs). I have to get back to the EE work that earns money or I will not be able to afford anymore stuff for this interesting hobby.

BTW: The OSC resistor (R9 in Rx & R3 in Tx) can be put in parallel with another 220kohm resistor to make sure the other cars don’t rcv the commands … not to say that the other cars are not jammed by the carrier … the other cars just don’t start acting on the commands. Some possibilities here … Jamming for one.

later dudes.

[Admin]

Hi everyone, thanks for your positive reply. 8ch Ess Vee you have also a nice track.

I have a question for you all, We don’t have a name for the track, do you know a nice trackname let us know by leaving a email to us or you can write this also in our guestbook on the site.

http://members.lycos.nl/bensuracer/

greetings bensuracer R&R

[Admin]

Hi racefriends,

Today we worked again at our track, we made a part of the barriers and experience with the grass. Will you see our new pictures. Take a look on our website.

http://members.lycos.nl/bensuracer/

Edited by – bensuracer on 25 August 2003 06:17:56

Edited by – bensuracer on 25 August 2003 06:19:09

[Admin]

Quote:

Are you near any wall outlets or appliances that draw a large amount of current.

I am starting to suspect that 50/60 Hz may be interferring with the car’s ability to extract the data from the signals. I have some dead spots in the house one is near the refrigerator.

later dudes.

then that is why i get like 1 foot of sputtering range in my dads office with 6 computers in a small area

[Admin]

Are you near any wall outlets or appliances that draw a large amount of current.

I am starting to suspect that 50/60 Hz may be interferring with the car’s ability to extract the data from the signals. I have some dead spots in the house one is near the refrigerator.

later dudes.

[Admin]

Quote:

Then check the seating of the magnet in the steering assembly, the glue that is used from the factory is quite weak and the magnet can come loose after a while.

Also, have you stuffed around with the steering assembly? I noticed that when I put the magnet back in the steering was crap! I had put the magnet in the wrong way. So try removing the magnet and flipping it over and put the assembly back to together. This is how I found that out!

ph2t.

[Admin]

Quote:

Yeh surfmystrat, thats exactly what I mean.
Were you able to solder it back on ??
If so was there any difference.??

Ph2t, I’ve seen that thread emerging, I think they are going to have problems with current supply using a DC-DC for motor power.
Intersting to see how things turn out though.
:)uA

I did not notice much change in the distance w/ and w/o the Crip cap (ripple capacitor). When I have designed circuits in the past I use a large value tantalum capacitor and a 0.1uF monolithic cap or power supply bypass at the various ICs. You could think of the circuit behind the DCDC converter as another part of the circuit that needs to have the voltage held up, thus the large cap. Holding up the voltage is very important when the motor is switched on, where a lot of current draw happens. I know the tantalums have poor responses at higher freqs that is why you use the 0.1uF cap. The same is probably true for electrolytics. I cannot explain why the extra bypass cap (on rcvr PCB) improves performance, perhaps the addition of the longer antenna is where the gain is acheived. (Has anyone tried increaseing the antenna length without removing the cr-ap {cripple cap}.) This supports my nagging problem with removing the cap. My problem with the cap being put there to hamper performance, is WHY? … why would they want to reduce the performance of the receiver … it is the xmitter that is doing the most radiating. That is the most likely place to squelch the system radiation to conform to regulatory radiation limits. Hurting the rcvr only hurts sales.

I could be off-base, above. The only explaination I have for Crip hindering proper operation, is this … first, notice that the resistors have numbering printed on them (format xxy, where the value is xx times 10 raised to the y, i.e., 226 would be 22×10⁶ or 22Mohm). The capacitors have no numbering, in fact, the only way to tell a cap from an inductor is the reference designator silkscreened onto the PCB next to the part. When I first saw SMT caps I thought that the values were color coded, this is not the case; the colors have no bearing on the value (they vary from mfg. to mfg., and prolly from lot to lot.) Here’s the rub, the tech installing the ripple cap got them mixed up with other values (or supply gave them the wrong values.) Too small of a cap and some of the harmful EMI will not be smoothed out, too large and the supply can not … no wait a minute too large is not a problem. Crip is fairly large for a smt monolithic cap, that leaves a lot of room for other similar sized caps below that value. If someone (ph2t) has a bunch of the caps they removed measure the capacitance of the lot. It’s just a theory … it has holes … i.e., I haven’t seen anyone post that things got worse after removing the cap.

Re: DCDC converter for more voltage to motors. Increasing the voltage to the motors will increase the current, speed, etc. However, the trade off will be increase EMI/RFI when the motor or steering coils are switched on/off. Also, you are using some of your battery power in the conversion process. Look at the specs of your dcdc converter. Replacing the existing DCDC converter with one that has a higher efficiency value (nu, expressed in percent) would give more battery life. If you want to bump the efficiency of the motor driver circuits … check out MicroAmp’s page on the MosFET mod. Looks incredible, great job dude, … I will try it out after improving my range (what good is improved running time and speed if you have to stay within a few meters of the car … in fact, by making the car faster, you just decreased the amount of time the car is in range.)

You don’t get something from nothing … well until the universe stops expanding and entrophy goes to zero … after which it will start contracting and the universe will give our cars energy … but at that point we will die due to not being able to sink the heat. I’m not sure if the last part is true, see what a little knowledge will do? Ok, I just exceeded my philosphy quota for the year.

I wish I had as much to say during 11th grade writting class, I might have made a better grade.

regards,
bigAL

microAmp: Dude, I got my nickname shortly after starting high school where changing for gym was mandatory. Sorry about your nick … :smiley2:

[Admin]

ditto for the tomy tool!

[Admin]

The race tin auldeys with relays are fun, especially inside. One problem I hav run into in the US is that their are no parts like tires and wheels except for tinracers which dont have tires, however the pre modded flying horse from them is a nice car. I have an order on the way from tin cars in Canada for wheels and tires so maybe that will work out, it is pretty inexpensive for a US$ Lets liven things up and get some stuff goin on here and on tiny RC, then it will be really fun.

[Admin]

Hi there friend… I have 3 auldeys… the flying horse with relays and a focus, and a pistol grip clk, the last 2 are on their way to me. I am also waiting on wheels and most importantly recharge 1800’s

[Admin]

Quote:

Thanks dude, I’ll give it a whirl tongiht.

The reason why I ask is that I’ve managed to rip out the old 3V DCDC converter and replace with a 5V one. My goal is to increase the RX power and get a greater range. When I do this the RX is actually worse off. I get spasmodic reception at best. I gotta re-tune the inductor and test to confirm if the 5V boost to the RX stage is a feasible one.

ph2t.

I applaud your adventurous nature. I’m not an RF designer, however, I dabble in the field a little. You don’t want to increase the power of your receiver, you want to increase it’s sensitivity. My guess is that the cripple cap is for the LC (inductor/capacitor) tank circuit that tunes the freq of the receiver. If they are using it to reduce the sensitivity, then they tune the receiver to max sensitivity for the transmitter after which they add a several pF of capacitance to slightly detune the receiver (thus reducing the sensitivity). I’m not sure what that has to do with the FCC, maybe they (FCC) feels it would act as a deterant to increasing the range. I have not seen the schematics for the receiver, so I could be way off here. Also, the part about the FCC, was something that I read about the cripple cap.

Having said that, coupled with what you are saying about a DCDC coverter. Well, maybe Cripple stands for the ripple reducing capacitor … I’ve seen the term Crip (a.k.a. ripple cap).

Could someone point me toward the schematic for the receiver? Is the black epoxy covering a die? I will need the datasheet for the receiver as well. I will analyze the diagram and make some suggestions or try some myself. Which IC on the PCB is the DCDC converter anyway?

Has anyone tried to change transistor Q2 (C945 EBC) with another transistor with a higher beta? Try the 2N3904 … becarefule about the pinout … the 2N3905 has a different configuration than EBC (Emitter/Base/Collector … I don’t have the data currently available). The higher beta will cause more current to flow from the collector to base … the inductor will produce larger voltage swings and thus more power. I hope some of this helps …

One last thing … does anyone know what kind of RF modulation is used and how the data is encoded?

Thanks.

[Admin]

leonli17
why dont you get the switch and wire and stuff and just cut the ground wire to the pcb board and strip some of the insulation off the ends of the ground wire then solder the wires from the dip switch to the ends of the wires saving you from being on the board and saves money

Edited by – maximan on 22 August 2003 12:35:15

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