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You need to open it up and change the quartz frequency thingy in there. You can get a different frequency at an electronics shop. The thing you want to replace looks like a silver squashed capacitor and should have “57mhz” written on it.
I just did the 2 NiMH mod too. 3V to charge 2.4V is too slow, esp since alkalines’ voltage sags a bit under load. Mine seems OK with the 6V pack I made up, you can have a guess at the charge time by feeling for when the 2nd battery gets hot. I get 10+ minutes from 60sec charge which is probly fairly conservative. You could just put a short where one of the AAs goes for a 4.5V charger if you’re worried about it.
I just did the 2 NiMH mod too. 3V to charge 2.4V is too slow, esp since alkalines’ voltage sags a bit under load. Mine seems OK with the 6V pack I made up, you can have a guess at the charge time by feeling for when the 2nd battery gets hot. I get 10+ minutes from 60sec charge which is probly fairly conservative. You could just put a short where one of the AAs goes for a 4.5V charger if you’re worried about it.
btw email me at dumadiscountNOSPAM@hotmail.com … cheers =)
Could some one tell me where the best arcades in Melbourne are? also where are the best game stores?
oops sorry, i got it at radio shack.
oops sorry, i got it at radio shack.
32 – 5 compact Char-G’s and 2 clones…..:smiley2:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/sandrashane/char-g/compact.html
couple bucks for a huge roll. I think it definitely helped with reception. Its really not that thick. The weight of it doesn’t affect performance much. Still runs great.
couple bucks for a huge roll. I think it definitely helped with reception. Its really not that thick. The weight of it doesn’t affect performance much. Still runs great.
its 22 gauge solid copper from radio shack =)
its 22 gauge solid copper from radio shack =)
Shypo,
Thanx yet again for the info – VERY useful for me
My first true bit (ok, a microsizer – here in the states you know) and the range, well it leaves something to be desired from what I ve been told. I went looking for the cripple cap in the controller – not there, and I did unsolder the mini cap on the chassis board – no improvement. My next mods to try to improve the range are a telescoping controller antenna and an upgraded chassis wire antenna. We’ll see if that has any effect.Given your advice, I think I’m going to also pick up an LXX.
Still waiting for my Japanese BCG to arrive in the mail…
Speedy
Shypo,
Thanx yet again for the info – VERY useful for me
My first true bit (ok, a microsizer – here in the states you know) and the range, well it leaves something to be desired from what I’ve been told. I went looking for the cripple cap in the controller – not there, and I did unsolder the mini cap on the chassis board – no improvement. My next mods to try to improve the range are a telescoping controller antenna and an upgraded chassis wire antenna. We’ll see if that has any effect.Given your advice, I think I’m going to also pick up an LXX.
Still waiting for my Japanese BCG to arrive in the mail…
Speedy
Shypo, Aesch – thanks for the tips.
Another question: there seems to be some preferences
among bit die-hards for earlier models becuse they generally had better range. I m still trying to decipher what all of the markings on the box stand for. I know all the basics (gearing, motor size, MHz, etc.), but what does the “L” designation on the left hand side of the display box stand for? I’ve seen “L-01”, “L-05”, and others (I think).Same goes for the LXX’s. Is there a preferable designation? Also, as far as the LXX’s go, all I’ve been able to find on ebay are the Skyline body types. I’ve also seen “Calsonic” LXX’s. Whats the difference?
Thanks again!, :approve:
Speedy
Shypo, Aesch – thanks for the tips.
Another question: there seems to be some preferences
among bit die-hards for earlier models becuse they generally had better range. I’m still trying to decipher what all of the markings on the box stand for. I know all the basics (gearing, motor size, MHz, etc.), but what does the “L” designation on the left hand side of the display box stand for? I’ve seen “L-01”, “L-05”, and others (I think).Same goes for the LXX’s. Is there a preferable designation? Also, as far as the LXX’s go, all I’ve been able to find on ebay are the Skyline body types. I’ve also seen “Calsonic” LXX’s. Whats the difference?
Thanks again!, :approve:
Speedy
Well to answer some questions since I also got them here we go:
NOTHING except the body is INTERCHANGABLE without a single mod.
The rear wheels are wide(almost twice the standard bit wheels!) and are slightly smaller in height!(Means better accelaration!)
I’m not sure how sticky the tires are!You can’t use the rear axle without mods.But propably can be glued easily to the original axle.
Rear axle is shorter than normal bit axle(I believe)
There is no front suspension system or interchangable steering componet’s but the front wheels can ‘easily’ moded same method but different knuckles…
The wheel designs are AWESOME…I think that there are 2 different!I love both of them…
All rims are black but have great details…Much better than original bit wheels in every aspect…And the lastone for Shypo…I have got an ae86 pullback in my hands right now!LoL
And for price 6-7 American dollars without shiping(much more than the ones Shypo got!)
I hope I answered all yours questions…
P.S:I’am so happy with the pullbacks,the bodies and the amazing wheels that I posted this info for the 3rd time tonight!
mine does that too,it’s weird when it crabs like that. tho i race more on our tiled kitchen
i tried to list them on the features, but i dont have a web page and wasnt sure if the link i sent in would work. the accord inthis pic has an adjustable front end. right now its up for carpet level. when i race on smooth floors i can drop it down real low. i mounted it on a morotworks frame. the truck in front of it is the body that came with the motorworks car. i swapped them because i like the steering on the MW car and the speed from my bit. enjoy!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
i tried to list them on the features, but i dont have a web page and wasnt sure if the link i sent in would work. the accord inthis pic has an adjustable front end. right now its up for carpet level. when i race on smooth floors i can drop it down real low. i mounted it on a morotworks frame. the truck in front of it is the body that came with the motorworks car. i swapped them because i like the steering on the MW car and the speed from my bit. enjoy!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
nevermind every one im a dumb arce. found it!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
nevermind every one im a dumb arce. found it!
Jack of all trades. Master of nothing!!
Quote:Schematic and circuit diagrams are as useful as taking a photocopy of the PCB. You still won’t know what’s under those black blobs – custom ICs – and what they do.Er, what’s under the black blob is widely documented — it’s an RX2 chip made by Realtek (among others). Pinouts are floating about these forums, as are full descriptions of what it does. Although the pinout is not very easy to relate to the epoxied die-on-board version, as the pins (and nearby components) are blobbed.
The best explanation I saw was on a micro-flight site, where one chap had a detailed description of the RX2 and TX2 chips …
No, I don’t have the link, sorry 🙁
Mike.
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