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  • in reply to: JNH petition #41202
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    • Posts: 5952

    I have been thinking about this for a long time. If you walked throught a mall during the christmas period, you would see stalls that sell clones selling a heap of cars, and the compacts sitting dormant on the k-mart shelf. JNH, you should put ads on at later times and target older byers. I mean, how many of us watch Cheese TV? half the time, the people buying clones were in their teens. Seriously, JNH, pull your finger out.

    in reply to: mini z #44921
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    they start from about $240 … average price is $280. they are the length of ur palm. compared to bits they absolutely rock. whether they are worth $250+ is questionable but they are a hell of a lot of fun.

    in reply to: stu stu stu stutter? #41361
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    I recently bought a Skyline 27mhz and it stutters to. Mainly once it is about 1m or more away and when turning. I tried to remove stiffinh cap from the remote but the is not one there. I am going to remove the one from the car itself and change the aerial on the remote, and try adjusting the pot. Does anyone know what is the cause of this or what else I can do to fix. ?

    in reply to: My custom pug 206 almost finished! #43682
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    • Posts: 5952

    Sorry one pic waas wrong…
    I’ve added the correct now….

    The body I’m selling(not sure for now…) is the one above when I finish it!

    And of course has rally colors…YOu can compare tehm with the 1:18 model!

    in reply to: Mod help: 4 point 4×4 suspension #44879
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    • Posts: 5952

    Thanks for the help,

    -I’ll look around and see what I could use for a spacer.
    -That would be one small hole in the tires, since you said something about drilling a hole in it, I looked at the drill bits and guess to be about a 1/16 size bit.
    -making a longer rear axle is really confusing, but I’ll look futher into it to see if I missed anything.

    One more question for now: It wanted me to drill a hole in the heat sink to connect to the guide roller. Would I use a 1/16 drill bit on that? It said to use micro machine screw and nut, I hope thats in a hardware store….

    Im going to do some looking futher into this to see if I have missed out on some detail. Thanks again, I appeciate the help.
    USNS R/C

    in reply to: Mod help: 4 point 4×4 suspension #41469
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    • Posts: 5952

    Thanks for the help,

    -I’ll look around and see what I could use for a spacer.
    -That would be one small hole in the tires, since you said something about drilling a hole in it, I looked at the drill bits and guess to be about a 1/16 size bit.
    -making a longer rear axle is really confusing, but I’ll look futher into it to see if I missed anything.

    One more question for now: It wanted me to drill a hole in the heat sink to connect to the guide roller. Would I use a 1/16 drill bit on that? It said to use micro machine screw and nut, I hope thats in a hardware store….

    Im going to do some looking futher into this to see if I have missed out on some detail. Thanks again, I appeciate the help.
    USNS R/C

    in reply to: Decisions… #44876
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    • Posts: 5952

    Ok thanks

    “UNIX is basically a simple operating system, but you have to be a genius to understand the simplicity.”
    Dennis Ritchie.

    in reply to: Decisions… #41481
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    Ok thanks

    “UNIX is basically a simple operating system, but you have to be a genius to understand the simplicity.”
    Dennis Ritchie.

    in reply to: Can help me? #41497
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    Thanks for the collaboration…
    task that the problem finds on the motivating force that it centers the wheels, beyond to dirt in rubbers and all the unstable front system. I will try to reconstruct in aluminum the front system, fixing front rubbers with a screw in order to increase the stability…. I will make to still know… thanks you…

    in reply to: Can help me? #44871
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    • Posts: 5952

    Thanks for the collaboration…
    task that the problem finds on the motivating force that it centers the wheels, beyond to dirt in rubbers and all the unstable front system. I will try to reconstruct in aluminum the front system, fixing front rubbers with a screw in order to increase the stability…. I will make to still know… thanks you…

    in reply to: mZ spareparts… availability?? #44869
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    • Posts: 5952

    as mentioned earlier in this thread, The person you are looking for with an online shop who dismantles mini-z’s for their individual parts is Draconious- Look for “Take out” parts-

    His web page- http://mywebpages.comcast.net/draconious/Mini-Z/_NewsUpdates.html

    he is reliable and cheap.

    in reply to: Where are we all? #41526
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    • Posts: 5952

    new bie in the us 👿

    in reply to: ausmicro.com Merchandise #41528
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    • Posts: 5952

    If you are after hits for advertising then I reccon you’d need to modify the supra video to include lots of Ausmicro overlay shots and such dave :).

    Have you submited your videos to any other fan site (I haven’t).

    Another Idea for a product, maybe a booklet on how to hold a bit char-g grand prix.
    -How to setup points tables
    -when you have 20 people and only 4 frequencies, how to get everyone a chance to race everyone else.
    -trophy ideas
    -track designs
    -ways to produce race tracks with just stuff lying about the house (eg table, bowls, plates, trays…
    -race types (100 laps, 5 laps, most # of laps on one charge)
    -mods for racing and suggested enhancements (ie tyres, engines, springs)

    … All in a little booklet with the ausmicro symbol plastered all over it.

    Paul

    in reply to: These look nice #44851
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    • Posts: 5952

    I think they are just newer batch/model on the market at the moment. New packaging and new car shells.

    —-
    Project: R32 Skyline GTSt
    http://www.projectskyline.tk

    in reply to: Questions on dual batt bits #41793
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    • Posts: 5952

    I used 1/3 AAA NiMH cells (120maH) in mine (AU$6 ea from battery world). The stock ones are only 50maH, are physically bigger and weigh more so not much point using them. Here’s a hint: if you can’t get the solder to stick to the battery contacts scuff it up a bit with some sandpaper etc beforehand.

    in reply to: My custom Skyline and progress pics of pug 206 #41836
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    • Posts: 5952

    Well yes…It was a real loctite TOMY bit…
    I also believe that It might be a litlle stupid thing to do!
    And yes it’s milliput…
    The wing is from a alluminium!(if you can’t afford a real one you make one for your bit!)
    And the pug is the clone body from toyest but now I believe looks much better!

    ATORC080b.jpg

    Edited by – MythosGR on 04 February 2003 10:34:39

    Edited by – MythosGR on 04 February 2003 10:56:50

    in reply to: Wow!Pullback wheels in a bit! #41842
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    • Posts: 5952

    I’ll have my new pullbacks tommorow so I’ll soon do the mod and I’ll tell you everything you need…I have already many photos but no space…I see what I’ll do…
    When I’m done with the front I’ll post more…

    No on the rear you have to:
    1.Pull(not cut)the rear from the pullback.
    2.Pull the ones from the bit.
    3.In the side with the gear cut the small spacers in the pullback wheel.
    4.Glue the Bit axle with pullback wheels together,

    Barrel:
    ALl rear pullback wheels are the same just pick the rim design you really want!

    in reply to: Wow!Pullback wheels in a bit! #41976
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    • Posts: 5952

    well shypo is correct…But what I suggested wsa using rear pullback wheels in the front!
    Not front pullback wheels in the front!I think that isn’t too difficult!

    I’ll post pics inside the week when I’ll get more pullback’s!

    Thanks for your good words!

    in reply to: Wow!Pullback wheels in a bit! #43720
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    • Posts: 5952

    Well first of all thank you for all your replys!!!

    Now the answers to your questions!

    DaveF:No you can’t use the pullback axle on a bit so it isn’t matter of clipping out/in.You have to take the rear pullback wheels out,thentake bit wheels of the axle and finally make a new one like the one in pics with the pullback wheels glued in!
    But it isn’t hard so don’t worry!It was my first mod ever…and I can’t say it ws dfficult!

    micro_Amps:I’m happy you are out for them!I convinced you!

    Shypo:Same here…I’m out of pullbacks…I had only the ae86 that I don’t want to open and the R32 that has different rim design!
    However I’m waiting 5 of them the next week so when I’ll have more wheels I’m going for it!

    finally,jc:The clones are bought from toyeast,called Bullet ST.Cost around 10$ US. Both of them were great ,no major problem and the quality isn’t really bad! Much faster than bits and now my moded runs better even on the track!
    What I didn’t like was the body but they have nice shapes(porsche,pug 206)but if you peel off the stickers you might even start to like it!

    in reply to: Wow!Pullback wheels in a bit! #44668
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    • Posts: 5952

    Where abouts can i buy this clone? and how much in au?
    id rather buy clones there cheaper and you dont give a shit if they break when youre being a nerd and geting em to go fast cause there worth like not much

    in reply to: Wow!Pullback wheels in a bit! #42013
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    Where abouts can i buy this clone? and how much in au?
    id rather buy clones there cheaper and you dont give a shit if they break when youre being a nerd and geting em to go fast cause there worth like not much

    in reply to: Good body for body drop #42025
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    I made a convertible car to make it easyer with the dual bat bod and i lowered it a bit its a fitracer not a bit char-g but they are the same dont know what speed moter in it though how can i tell that? theres no coulors.

    in reply to: Controller Frequency #44655
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    Thanks mate, I will try.

    in reply to: Controller Frequency #42065
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    • Posts: 5952

    Thanks mate, I will try.

    in reply to: Controller Frequency #44649
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    • Posts: 5952

    You need to open it up and change the quartz frequency thingy in there. You can get a different frequency at an electronics shop. The thing you want to replace looks like a silver squashed capacitor and should have “57mhz” written on it.

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