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i have watever i find in my room on a given day.. or watever i make for myself (mini drivers)
lol..
umm.. lemme try it again.. lmao.. prolly not but w/e..
oh yah.. and GLOW IN THE DARK spray paint for my OEM GTR body… heh heh heh:smiley15:
i just got one.. but its purdy 🙂 custom exaust, custom controller, tinted, changed rims a bit, a few decals, 3.0, 2.6, 1.0, fast OEM gears, messed with my tires a bit, lowered, and im planning a completely new (and unatempted.. as far as i can tell) antenna.. one of those proper whip ones offa big r/c car.. its cut, bent and i just gotta attach it cuz apperantly u cant solder it.. i had no idea.. a lil super glue should cut it.. i dunno.. ne ways.. soon enuff..
err.. as if the pics didnt work.. ummm.. iunno.. oh well u get the jist.. u can tell me how to post em offa my hard drive if possible.. pleez?
Quote:Originally posted by bit char g-t-r on 26December2002i have modellista set also but havea problem, when i dont press the boost buttom my 2.2 runs a fast as a 1.0, but when i hold the boost button it goes up to normal 2.2 speed, i also have subaru 45 mhz, non boost, and for my modellista 27mhz to keep up i have to hold the boost, is there a reason it does this, does anyone else have this problem?
Its a feature of that set – the boost function. Quite a few of the newer released cars are coming with the boost function. Basically, as you already said, running in normal mode the car will operate at a lower RPM e.g. like a 1.0 motor. Once the boost button is pressed, the motors RPM will max out.
Your only way around this is to purchase the 4band controller (available seperately). This controller allows you to:
- Control non-boost cars
- Control boost cars with boost function activated
- Control boost cars with boost function disabled – this is what your looking for I guess? Means you can use your Auto Modellista set at max motor speed – 2.2.
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Booster sets are excellent if you race around tracks as you can hold the boost button down on straights then release to take corners slowly! Race your Subaru around a track and watch him spin out at corners while you Auto Modellista car takes the corner like a pro 😉
i have modellista set also but havea problem, when i dont press the boost buttom my 2.2 runs a fast as a 1.0, but when i hold the boost button it goes up to normal 2.2 speed, i also have subaru 45 mhz, non boost, and for my modellista 27mhz to keep up i have to hold the boost, is there a reason it does this, does anyone else have this problem?
thanks much
i have modellista set also but havea problem, when i dont press the boost buttom my 2.2 runs a fast as a 1.0, but when i hold the boost button it goes up to normal 2.2 speed, i also have subaru 45 mhz, non boost, and for my modellista 27mhz to keep up i have to hold the boost, is there a reason it does this, does anyone else have this problem?
i dont think the proformance of the mini z’s are up to par. there in the same class as the abc hobby pocket racer dtm sp the brp super car 18. there all mini 2 wheel drive cars the bes is the brp racer 18 what is the fastest mini car to date. it some stock with foam tires that are trued. its very easy to recover when you start goin sideways and outta the box has a top speed of 21mph with a 4 cell pack and 26mph with a 6 cell. but dont get me wrong im thinging of buying a mini z but im gonna dump about $300 in hop up parts right when i but itthe full option chassy looks like it could be a good comp. only thing is it dosent recover easy when you put it sideways. and the ball diff on the brp is much smoother than the mini z and it has the biggest diff balls i ever seen. bigger than schumacher diff balls.
the abc pocket racer is another 1 that has trued foam tires made cheeoer than the brp but theres alot of hop ups like carbon fiber chassy ect.
only reason im not sold on the mini z is the electronics are really cheep. i like the outher cars becouse they use standard electronics. and if i can find a carbonfiber or titanum chassy i will pick 1 up that day. the chassy just dosent say rc car is screams k mart r c car. on the outher hand the mini z f1 looks really goodand is 2mph faster than the mini z and is 1.11 oz lighter but it has the same problem that the mini z’s are knowen for the back tires brake loose in turns on a high grip surface and the rear end tends to hop on a tight turn at high speeds. the mini z also has alot of chassy bounce . but thats onl a stock mini z i havent got behind the wheel of a hoped up mini z. i’ll test drive 1 thats ben totaly hoped up on tues. and tell you how it dus but from what my firend tells me its a really nice car when its set up for that track. but im not a really big fan of plastic thats why my micro rs4 has the complet hard core racing titanum chassy. try http://www.racinghardcore.com and check to see if they have any parts yet. some times they sell fully hoped up cars that they used to show there parts for cheep.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU, I GET IT NOW, I WUZ SOOOO CRAZY, THANKS ALL OF U, AND MORE TO PANDABEAR, U DA MAN:smiley4:
how come the post in which the idler gear sits on keeps slidding off the whole chassis.
Jamie,
i tried that with the dark green gears from a MPH/KPH set. It doesn’t work to well. I think it is becuase the bit charge weighs twice as much as the KIT racer, so motor just doesn’t have the torque to get it going properly. Anyway, good luck with your mod, I hope it works better than my attempt.the ratios
NTP? I honestly don’t know. Our server runs on GMT! and is managed for us by our ISP. I shoudl get them to double check their time updating methods 🙂
The limitation with forum times is in the forum code though 😉 Maybe the new version will sort that out!
Thanks Panda 😉
You’re quite right – we need some revenue – and advertising is how we do it. We’re happy to sell advertising to any company – we have very affordable rates and can definately get a lot of ad displays out there 🙂
As for the sig files – it’s a bit different, I’ve talked with people about it and the basic premise is, use your sig file to promote your site, post stuff that’s worthwhile and CONTRIBUTE to the community and it’s cool.
Aaron
i just read up on them and there filled with neon gas like a neon tube thats why there so expensive but the purple orange yellow blue and white at the most expensive.
Quote:Originally posted by -ccw- on 08November2002got the aprox 150mm length form 1/50 of the 40Mhz wave length which is about 7.5M
-ccw- , the 150mm that you mention, is that 150mm all in vertical height ? It sounded as thought it was as you mentioned that it was from the top side of the board.
Also, when you say that the 150mm is 1/50 the wave length, what is the smallest percentage of the wavelength that you can use, ie, why not use 75mm as that would be 1/100th ?
BTW, do you know what the wavelength for 27Mhz is ?
This thread is now CLOSED.
I few participants have really tested my patience with regards to language/attitude. I let this thread run too long.
I will not name names for the moment – I’m sure you know who you are. Consider yourself on-notice.
Thanks
Derek
*cough* mini-zone.dinball.com *cough* or just dinball.com *cough* hope this helps:smiley2:
lol i don’t care, i’m not american anyways… but yeah lancer, you lie too much and you make YOUR people look like stupid liars, and complete@$$holes…
CHANGE YOUR ATTITUDE!!
This thread is now closed.
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off topic

Derek
…
put a v-8 in it with a borla cat back system. or run behind it and scream rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrcat back souds like crap anywhays equal headers with st8 3 1/2″ in pipes sounds way better. and cat backs dont have the flow needed for turboed cars justa lil info.
or u can record catback sound from some car, burn a cd, and then listen to it while playing with ur charg:smiley4: lol
well what cars do you hace in aus. and what scale if your lookin for a mini hpi is the way ta go becouse its 4wd and handles the best and outta the box theres only 1 car faster called the brp racer. but thas based on a pan car not a touring car. 1/10 scale i would go for a tc3 they take the turns really fast ad are raceready outta the box. instead of belts that flex it uses a hallow composit drive shaft what was computer eng. for better speeds and longer run times. as for the speed when it was tested by rc car action they got a stock tc3 racer to go 70mph just changeing the gearing and running 10 cells with a fantom 11 turn hand wound. but theres 3 kits with the tc3 the racer the team kit and the factory team. for spped and handling the racer is the best becouse the team and the factory team use more alu and are heaver. also the cvd’s on the racer are composit so it has a lower rotateing mass than the alu. cvd’s on the team and factory team kits
Oh god, I had to register just to answer this one. Mate, a real car has an engine in it that produces thousands of little explosions that make the noise we all love to hear. A Bit Char-G / whatever has motor that whines. You aren’t gonna get that noise … sorry!!
Dave
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