betty.k

[betty.k]

i don’t mind the time outs really, i think it’s the reason why we don’t have too many impatient kiddies here!:8ball:

[betty.k]

it was pretty funny watching the h plate disassemble itself before my eyes!:D rilly gotta check them screws from time to time ph2t!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

warney, reviving old threads is the way to go, saves having 200 threads about the same thing!:smiley2::8ball:

[betty.k]

count me in man! let’s hope the weather holds up:8ball:

[betty.k]

we’re spread out pretty far! i’m in the inner eastern burbs. kenworth? i know someone that used to work there:smiley2:

and man, one look at our driving skills and you’ll feel alot better about yours!:D:8ball:

[betty.k]

ouch!:8ball:

[betty.k]

hmmmm, that’s what ph2t’s looks like too! :8ball:

[betty.k]

http://www.troyleedesigns.com/:8ball:

[betty.k]

TROY LEE DESIGNS!!!:8ball:

[betty.k]

decals were about $8 for both left and right. that name again, troy lee designs. been stickering mountain and trailbikers for years:8ball:

[betty.k]

i tested it out before painting, on a flat track it’s fine. maybe the odd scrape. but anywhere else and it catches the ground big time. so it’s a “track only” body. i have another one and the front lasted about 2 minutes before it got trashed. i cut off the rest of the skirt and use that bod out back. ph2t has one with a pretty jagged skirt too! i did no lowering to it, that’s how it came. all i did was remove the rear spoiler and door pillars:8ball:

[betty.k]

i know of about 50 rc’ers that would wet their pants for a tureno bod:8ball:

[betty.k]

oh we’ll be doing this again for sure! it’s a pity we all bought our z’s just before winter, makes meetups fewer, but we’ll be there again:8ball:

[betty.k]

a stock iwaver setup has the switch connected to the bottom 2 terminals (the ones held in place with the long screws) and the top 2 go to the pcb.:8ball:

[betty.k]

you might even see locals reprezent in some parts too….:8ball:

[betty.k]

basically i wired up the batteries the same as in a z. you’ll notice in your iw that the power comes from the top 2 battery terminals, and the switch is attached to the bottom 2. i bridged the top terminals with some wire and use the bottom 2 as the power terminals. (the ones held in place with those 2 long screws) from these power terminals i now have 2 sets of power leads. one set goes straight into nelly, no switch involved. the second set goes into the pcb with the switch on the red + wire going to the pcb.

previously the switch was on the bottom 2 terminals and therefore was part of the battery curcuit.:8ball:

[betty.k]

well i’m lost now. what are you talking about?:8ball:

[betty.k]

any switch will work, but really crappy ones will fail under high current.i’ve got my nelly wired directly to the battery terminals and made it so the switch is not part of the drive curcuit:8ball:

[betty.k]

i used the switch from an enertec micro charger! one important thing, is this a z or an iwaver? if it’s a z, the switch only controls power to the reciever curcuit. but if it’s an i waver the switch is also part of the drive curcuit, which means there’s more current flowing through it. i had a stock i waver switch blow out completely, melty goo and all!:8ball:

[betty.k]

hello joe, you got any chewing gum? stockings?

and get me some mo’ watermelon…….:8ball:

[betty.k]

tim, you’ll have to replace the servo pot with a new (and expensive!) one. the same thing happened to me, replacing the pot fixed everything!:8ball:

[betty.k]

it’s important to know how much is too much. high torque is wasted when enough torque is fine. i want my car to leap off the line, but if it just spins the wheels it’s useless. and the trade off with high torque is a reduced top speed.

and try telling leon or jamie to drive around templestowe at full throttle. i’ve seen jamie try…..:8ball:

[betty.k]

well, i did some motor schooling last night (bust one open kids, steep learning curve!)
i opened up the torque tuned motor and got rid of the copper brushes, the can and end cap (shame to lose the pretty orange one:sad:). i then put all the guts inside the stock i waver can. it has a metal bushing and copper brushes so it’s sorted! i can’t verify it accurately but this motor seemed more punchy and slightly quicker than the x speed i have, so it’s gonna gather dust for now!
as for my p dash, it was much faster, but lacked the punch on take off that i was hoping for. so i popped it open, removed the wire and wound it to 35 turns. now it’s really kicking even with bigger pinions. i think now that 35t coupled with the strong (but not neo’s) ferrite mags is a nice combination. neo mags are only really good for high torque, low speed applications.:8ball:

[betty.k]

gotta be careful with terminology like “better” and “best”. it depends what you want the motor to do really. neo mags are great for torque but reduce top speed. my plasma dash is fast but lacks real punch off the line. i’m thinking a happy medium would be a plasms rewound to 35t.

this motor business is very involving with many different options and tweaks you can do, i’m just venturing into this area now. i have a headache:8ball:

[betty.k]

try your local $2 shop, they got heaps of crap from pill boxes to wheelie bins! or go to your local take away shop and ask to buy some of their small plastic sealable ones. maybe even take away coffee cups, you could work that into your marketing. jk racing “esspresso” motor!:p:8ball:

Edited by – betty.k on 13 July 2004 17:43:53

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