Dangerous Dave
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a professional model heli pilot mate strongly recommended I get hold of the Bell Twister Medevac style helis to learn on.
They are dual conter rotating design, but with full swash plate and 4 channel control.
They are naturally quite stable and fairly robust. Not the fastest thing, but suitable for indoors as well.
I still love flying the little 3 ch Airlark though…
Micro Mosquito looks like a smaller version of the Airlark, same 3 ch design.
Big PROPS (love those puns..) to klims for the picco z tail rotor mod. Works really well.
Another mod I tried with success is adding a tail fin to dampen the yaw (rudder) rate, I needed to add weight to the tail so I figured it should be useful 🙂
btw, don’t spin your bearings up using compressed air, they can overspeed and get damaged..
does the other wheel not turn at all???
if it turns in the SAME direction, it’s still ok, maybe even too tight. I’ve never owned an iwaver/MiniZ, so dunno how tight they need to be..
if the other wheel doesn’t turn at all, maybe there’s some binding in the drive axles? Try it with either wheel.
Balls do wear, more likely the rings wear before the balls, check for grooving.
Other than that, I’ve got no idea haha
I just leave bearings alone hehe
with such small loads, they’ll last for ages unless they corrode or experience a thrust (axial) load.
certainly is 🙂
it did have matching front wheels but they were a little stiff on the axles.
bits for my old vintage RC stuff ahahaha
see if he can get a case of those “offroad” style Bits the Yanks had recently..
other than that, I’d like to check it out – details??
not yet – gotta find a place with the rotors available..
my new Airlark is much better for forwards/backwards than the first one..
luck of the draw I guess.
$36 posted for a 3ch heli is pretty good I reckon 🙂
for some info or help you might like to try http://www.Nitrobashers.com , they are based here in Perth.
Not sure if I’ve seen specific info for your truck (Truggy?), but general engine help etc is abundant, just ask.
If you have broadband, check out the vids on how to bust stuff..
AIrlarks or Piccos?
The AL’s steer too well haha.
But barely a crawl forwards – which is not so bad in confined spaces..
I got a pair of Airlarks.
work well, but extremely slow forwards, and no backwards.
Did the “cat killer” mod to the tail rotor, marginal improvement.
Might have to try a PiccoZ clone rear rotor..
Still great fun for the $$
don’t know..
I’m not a ful bottle on motors either (I’m studying Mechanical Engineering, only did a lightweight course on lecky motors).
Maybe one of the wires is a common ground?
I’m sure one of the gurus who produce those Nelly Spider things can help us both out!
Are you driving everything with enough supply voltage?
the ESC should run from a standard servo port.
the ESC should also have main battery in (2 wires) and motor out (3 wires) leads.
at a guess you might be trying to run the brushless motor on servo power alone.
just looked at the links – I’ve got the 30A version of that ESC. They work well, don’t be surprised when it starts singing to you!!
onya jamie – but did it make any difference?!!
I haven’t been on here for that long, and I’m still only into Bits, but the amount of help, encouragement and laughs I get from here keeps me coming back 🙂
Aaron, know how ya feel with tight financial strings, I’ve been both a single parent and full time student for the past 5 years :s
but I went 1/10 RC racing last w/end with a 20yr old buggy and had a blast 😀
Fun is still to be had on a budget..
nah, bring back the Bits 😉
thanks z, I got it all sorted out with some contacts through betty :beer:
here’s a link to a very short vid of it..
Click here to watch Bit-Char-G-with-Xtrek-34-FETs-and-dual-cells–
you BASTARD :p
I thought I mighta been able to beat you guys to it!
Guess I shoulda known better.
Nice work
those guys are just STOOPIDly good
February 6, 2007 at 12:44 pm in reply to: brand new bit char-g, won’t work at all! any ideas? #59937ta bk, I didn’t have any opened Bits with springs to photograph..
the steering return spring might be outta place.
check the free ends of the spring are either side of and hooked under the tiny T piece.
Unfortunately you have to lift up the circuit board again to gain access to the small screw which holds down the steering cover. The steering cover should hinge forwards, and all the steering bits will fall outta place.. ATTENTION: DO NOT LOSE THE TINY SPRING!!
Put everything back in it’s correct place, and make sure the spring is positioned. Replace the steering cover and check if the steering works before inserting the screw. While you’re there, check the steering wires haven’t broken off..
Repair/reassemble, and enjoy your rapidly increasing Bit knowledge :pto go faster – find better motors, try different gears, do a FET mod, go dual cell..
the FET mod makes a huge difference, but requires intricate soldering work and some small electronic components.
Any micro RC parts should work, even generic “clones” of the Bits.
you have to carefully lift the board up, it will probably kinda hinge from one side.
The tiny steering wires will be holding it down on one side (or at the front), just gently lift the board at the free end and you’ll see the battery underneath.
Note the battery orientation, then carefully manouver it out, again watching out for the steering wires..:beer:
bugger that, send your parts to ME :p
I’d check the interior battery terminals first, if there’s any kinda green corrosion or otherwise clean them up and it should work. If you have a Volt Meter, check the voltage on the car’s charging tabs after checking the terminals, should give you anything from 0.7 to 1.4 volts depending on battery status.
I’ve had a few DOA bits, and all were easily fixed by cleaning the terminals.
Enjoy it for a while, then start modding ahahahahaha…
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