Dangerous Dave

[Dangerous Dave]

buy a Mini X, then your Z/Iwaver/anything else will seem like creamy goodness…

[Dangerous Dave]

nope (well Tx has some sort of ABS, but I don’t understand it)

I just use the EPA adjust to make reverse weak brake..

[Dangerous Dave]

I can’t afford M Z’s either, hence I’ve got a couple of Iwaver/Firelaps :smiley16:

Don’t own a XMod, but I reckon the Z clones would be faster.. (feel free to tell me different lol)

I posted somewhere else about US$40 Iwavers incl radio…

[Dangerous Dave]

while we’re at it..

is the roll shock mod worthwhile for MR02 handling?

I currently run a carbon H plate and Kyosho oil damper (with spring)

[Dangerous Dave]

too true..

I used to have a trusty old Metro Jet Hopper (Turbo Hopper everywhere else), ran it till everything was worn out…

so was very happy when I discovered the slot car versions years later 😀

(nearly as happy as I was when I discovered the Tomy Tamiya buggies hehe)

[Dangerous Dave]

Aaron, has the 02M been reviewed here?
I don’t recall seeing one.

And does the 02M have dual chip FET steering like the Z’s?

(feel free to move this post!)

[Dangerous Dave]

I asked the question here somewhere too, and got no response 🙁

So I bought the normal one. The air gap between the can magnets and the arm is a couple of mm, so I’m guessing “thick” refers to thicker can magnets that give a stronger mag field and smaller air gap.

Thicker/stronger/closer mags should give an increase in torque and efficiency, but will most likely bring the max rpm down a bit.

I built up the fabled Plasmatomic motor ( http://woahnelly.com/plasmatomic/index.htm ) using the normal Atomic can, and it goes extrememly well 😀

[Dangerous Dave]

this is a stab in the dark:

is the tool height set correctly? looks like the counter sinking bit isn’t coming up high enough to clear the material. Or maybe the material is bowed up in that area?

hope ya get it sorted!

[Dangerous Dave]

I think that’s a typo for bending.

and yeah, it does look trick 🙂

[Dangerous Dave]

video please!!

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah I went back and checked your UberDash tutorial for a comparison..

I could resurrect the I-Plus by pinching a comm off a stock motor

[Dangerous Dave]

I made sure the endbell bearing recess was deep enough for the bearing (it’s in your tutorial haha).

No neo mags, and am actually running the ferrites outta the wrecked I-Plus motor. They are much thicker than the Plasma items, and even if they were a little weaker, I’m working on the magnetic distance vs force quadratic relationship, hoping it will be the stronger option.
Will probably try the Plasma mags at some stage, but this thing has pretty good torque even with the 10T.

I have begun work on my own steering H bridge, using the 2 original motor drive FETs. If I get it compact enough, I may be able to fit it under the PCB cover. The L9110 chip will be coming out of course 😉

Back to the subject of motors, I couldn’t help but notice that lovely fat comm on the Plasma Dash. I’m now wondering if the low rated Dash motors (Speed Dash etc) have the same comm, and would they be a great mild modified motor for Mini Zs?
They do seem to have a different endbell design though.
And I’m also talking lower rating than the Uber Dash 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

In keeping with my trend of being years behind the :8ball: , I have just installed a Plasmatomic hybrid motor in the NanoRacer (with 3×2 FET stack).
It’s pushing an alloy 10T pinion.
This motor is phenomenal.
Again, many praises to Ph2t for pioneering the Plasmatomic.

I now have a busted H plate from clipping a curb at ridiculous speed, lucky I have spares!
And I have no desires to go for 7.4V LiPo batteries, this thing is almost too fast on 4 cells…

I have noticed that my steering power disappears under throttle, so the next mod will be a Steering Turbo using the original motor FETs.
Will put up another rambling post when I get that done.

PS the Iwaver I-Plus motor was fast, but it only lasted a few runs before it chewed out its comm and the brass brushes snapped off. Cheap thrill.

[Dangerous Dave]

well done on such a neat conversion 😀

[Dangerous Dave]

Duratrax Evaders (Stadium or buggy) are good for general bashing, and also kinda raceable.

The Nitro Evader ST goes hard 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

Nitro is for junkies who like noise and fumes hehe

And until recently, they were the only way to go for outright power

[Dangerous Dave]

mate has a NanoDragon II, it’s his new favorite toy..

if you want a nitro basher, the Hobao Hyper 7 buggy (1/8 scale) is very rugged, and parts are plentiful and cheap. You can spend alot more, but unless you’re going to race, you shouldn’t have to. Expect to pay up to $500 for a complete RTR setup.

There are 1/16 nitro buggies available if you want smaller stuff, but the electric brushless versions are faster 😉

a good site to check out is http://www.nitrobashers.com . They are based here in Perth, and have heaps of experience in many offroad RC’s. Also access to cheaper parts.

[Dangerous Dave]

mate had to repair a track, running 7.4V LiPo.

been fine since.

[Dangerous Dave]

I believe the switch on the Mini X ESC only switches the 5V supply to the Rx..

The main power wires do not go through it.

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah the extra axes are tilts..

5 axis is a very common configuration.

[Dangerous Dave]

does your Mini X Rx have acceptable range? Both of the ones I dealt with were unusable….

[Dangerous Dave]

the speedy is pretty robust in standard trim, mine passed enough current to melt the chassis and runs perfectly.

It’s the stoopid receiver that aint worth nuthin’ ..

oh, and the motor should be embedded in the designer’s skull

[Dangerous Dave]

I need more rear traction rather than power right now 😉

I already have an Atomic Neo bb can, so might try the Plasmatomic option hehehe

[Dangerous Dave]

new PCB in, 3×2 stacked FETs and Iwaver I-Plus motor = cracked bodyshell AHAHAHAHAHAHA..

fast enough for now, until I get me some of them foam rear tyres for drivability 😉

I remember stating here ages ago that I wasn’t interested in this scale…

[Dangerous Dave]

yeah the SQW’s are good enough 🙂

for charge time, several charges on the standard Tx charger will give slightly better performance and an increased runtime. A fully charged battery can give up to 10 mins runtime, but getting it fully charged will take a few goes.

If you mean the turning radius, I guess ya could do a U Turn within 20cm..

THe other guys can help you with the other stuff too 😉

Welcome to Ausmicro

[Author]

Posts