Dangerous Dave
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holy cr*p!!
speechless yet again..
Klims, head over to bitpimps and check out the Galleries..
http://bitpimps.lixlink.com/pages/phpGallery/index.php
some crazy stuff there
should be 4 transistors to remove, and 4 2502’s put in, however with a single cell Bit, 2 of them are mounted remotely (on the underside or similar)with jumper wiring to them.
If this is what you have already done, then all ya can do is make sure all joints are good, and nothing is shorting anywhere.. check the ground wires too.
I’ve only done 2 FET mods – so I aint no expert… maybe someone else has some tips?
Good luck – it’s worth it!!!!!
ta BK
I shoulda just bought it and found out I guess
depends how quickly we get our asses into gear lol
hopefully get something officially happening soon 🙂
the US guys can get them at 3 for US$13 !!
actual cost here depends on numbers to ‘dilute’ the postage costs, I’m getting 6, as is another guy in QLD, plus a couple of others.
most of the details are in the linked bp thread 🙂
I downloaded that vid on my extra slow dialup connection, and it was worth EVERY HOUR I waited..
yeah, that thing is incredibly stable!! Do you attribute that to the rear susp.??
My fast Bit (even my stock ZZSE) roll with the slightest bump…
sorry, shoulda been more clear..
meant the Duty Cycle mod (changing the PWM output on the throttle).
aww I only got about 4 FETs left, but they are reserved for my ZZSE 🙁
Has anyone here done the DC mod to a ZZSE?? was it worth it?
ta fellas
yeah I have only just realised there are ‘2 speed’ PCB’s around. What type of car do I need to buy to get a booster?
Re Jamiek’s FET question – RS Components have got the tiny IRLM2502’s and others, just order online and do a local pickup if there’s a store close by.
Or maybe Aaron, microamps, ph2t etc have bulk quantities?
ta bk – I actually did the FET mods ages ago to both the Bit and MT, and yeah, it makes a BIG difference.
So this arvo I wander out to the shed with my new cells, Dremel the chassis a little, bit of soldering and 10 mins later I have a dualled Bit. What will it do when I first nail it on the kitchen table??
WHEELSTAND half way across (1m), then flipped over backwards!!
Turns out it doesn’t wheelie straight either, cos the rear of the body has tailpipes on one side only – so will add a second set later.
I think the wheelies may be a problem when trying to drive any kind of circuit, so am going to chase down some taller gearing to tame it (tried 4.95:1, but they’re too big).
I have finally got the goods to dual cell my Bit…
Original Compact Char G R34
X Trek 3.4
FETs
Custom rims
(soon to be) Dual cells – 110mAh 1/4’salso have cells to make my FETed ZZMT a tri/quad cell monster!! ya reckon it will handle 4 cells?????
awesome work bk – nailed it all, including aesthetics…
I started off with a Walkera #36, but I’d recommend one of those suggested by bk, as I’ve had a very steep learning curve being thrown in the deep end lol
hey we’re working on it over here 🙁
all part of the fun..
the Dragonfly 36 heli I got here hasn’t even been 7m off the ground yet.
Another way to meet neighbours is to go introduce yourself haha (yeah I’m an old fashioned country boy at heart).
I gather from the lack of other threads on Tomitech stuff that they aren’t worth buying?
Alot of ebay ads say they’re about 180mm long, this makes them about 1/24 scale (comparing with my 1/24 Tamiya R32 model).
Pity if they are junk – cos I spotted the Legacy wagon too..heya bk
do you still have contacts to get 1/4 AAA cells?
think it’s the last thing my BCG needs – duals. Oh, and maybe stacking my spare FETS… does this make a noticeable difference?
While I’m here, I’m getting in two ZZMT motor upgrade kits (3 motors, 3 gearsets each) if anyone needs one. Will use one, the other will be spare if a mate declines it.
Also been trying to find miniature Li po cells, but no luck yet. Have seen some 20x25x4mm cells, but do they come any smaller?
Cheers
Klims, if ya haven’t already, rig up some sort of proper battery charging system.
Not only will you dramatically increase your run times, but with a good charge the cell/s will reach a higher voltage so you can go faster.Oh, did I mention to do the FET mod too ? 😛
keep an eye on this guy for ZZSE and xmods – only 1 item up currently, but I got my ZZSE for US$10.. and the XMOD he has up now looks cheaper than most.
ahaha I was thinking of those little nitrous bottles….
hmm I’m thinking googs are like nangs…
if the spring is tensioned against the droop stops the susp will be firmer.. along with a 2 storey ride height ahahaha..
can cut springs to change their characteristics, but not recommended (in effect becomes a different spring anyway).
the one on the motor is referred to as the Pinion, and it’s this one that is by far the most easily changed gear.
when buying new gears, make sure they are compatible (shaft size, Imp/Metric and pitch).. Tamiya stuff is metric.
and yeah, like klims said – small pinion is like 1st gear, bigger one like 5th…yeah me too – thought I’d been left behind by all these Zwavermods…
nice work bk
a higher discharge rate should provide MORE punch..
every cell, no matter what chemistry, has an internal resistance to flowing current. If the int. res. is high it limits the current more and lowers the max. discharge rate (current).
The capacity rating (mAh) is not directly related to discharge rate, but you will often find the higher capacity cells are slightly compromised by a lower max. discharge rate due to a higher internal resistance.
I think.. 😛
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