jamiekulhanek
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don’t get topcad, they are crap
Your giving it a week?? Man you are impatient lol!
Faster motor and ball differential.
I cbf buying crap from the states chino
Dave, a few lengths that are a tad longer than the stock ones would be great!
Yeah i’ve seen ikinaris site man,
The problem with my Z PCB is when my first motor burnt out it shorted out the FET stack (6×2) which made them hot enough to melt the solder on the stacks and shorted out The Reverse signal.
The result is, even though i have a new perfect 9×2 stack, it only has foreward now! so its going in a hydro plane boat because there is a nice lake just near my house, and i have learnt that when you have huge power and speed and no way of braking it can get expensive.
My total mini Z experience cost me close to $1000 aus or about $700 US.
I really think that there is nothing wrong with the xmod electronics, the propo is not anywhere near as fine as a mini Z, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference when i’m driving on my garage floor track. Plus the brake is a good function, and with the AWD kit you have four wheel braking which is 150% better than rear wheel brakes. Once you have learned your xmod inside out, back to front and maximized performance, handling and efficiency, i have no hesitation in saying that this thing could really give a hopped up Z a spanking.
As i have not got any hopups at the mo, besides a custom motor, its kinda lame.
Man i never understood binary!!
Dont tell me thats a fuggen tape deck?? I threw all my tapes away!!
That name badge could be fun in the workplace.
Also alloy 1st servo gear can solve many headaches, and rear dampers/roll shocks/ front springs also help to accustom your car to any given track.
Tie rod sets will change steering characteristics for different tracks.
You may also choose to go down the TURBO/FET path, these give your car more power, and allow you to run hotter motors with a lot of power and speed without the risk of blowing your PCB.
If you do go with FETs or a Turbo, there are plenty of nice upgrade motors to choose from, the tamiya series are fantastic value for money.
L337_krew, wtf the stock kingpins are steel, not plastic.
Icebreaka
First mod to get is ball bearings, they increase speed and acceleration and run very smoothe.
H plate isn’t that critical if you run on smoothe surfaces, though if you get the set you can change stiffness. If you powerslide at speed and hit something, the stock Plate will break.
An upgrade motor….X speed costs a bloody lot considering the power, there are cheaper, better quality, faster motors.
A ball diff is the next part you need, these significantly increase traction, and will help prevent spinouts etc and will allow you to corner faster.
tyres- don’t be fooled, the softer tyres dont always mean more traction, on smoothe concrete hard or stock tyres seem to have more traction than the widest softest rubber from GPM.
Foam tyres at this scale are good, but wear quickly, on my mini Z they lasted about 5 minutes at templestowe race track. But your car should be fine, as it will have 1/14 the power, and will be kinder on tyres, though even with a stock motor you can wheelspin and powerslide.
Soft tyres will work good on things like smoothe ashphalt and carpet.
Alloy parts: These have little purpose, they look nice and add weight.
Alloy motor mounts can help get rid of motor heat and increase motor life.
Alloy wheels are strong, run dead true (to the eye at least), are fairly light and look great. These aren’t a bad idea.
Parts like alloy bulkheads add lots of weight, but some say that the weight in the nose improves handling.
Quote:jamie, nice motor. did u also have to use a larger size baring in the rear end bell of the PD? i just use mini4wd barings a lil tight but fit right in. hav u tried li-ions in ur z yet?This setup saw 84km/h on the speedchecker, or 52mph, and due to the gigantic torque of the motor, i dont think the ground speed was a heck of alot slower.
I only have bits of my car left now, it was just too unreliable, after a few runs it was time for a motor rebuild, but when it was going at 100% you had to watch that throttle! Even on a smoothe bitumen track with softies, it only took 1/4-1/3 throttle to light up the rear treads, and you had to feather the throttle to keep the ass end inline. At these speeds though it would just about put its face through it’s ass in a crash, which is another reason why I abandoned it.
The car had a 6 cell 7.2v pack with deans rc connectors.
I didn’t need a larger ball bearing in the end bell, the size I had was fine, I was going to go with li-ions, as i have a li-ion charger, but i ended up swapping alot of my Z stuff apart from the PCB, Servo, chassis, and most stock parts.
An idea ph2t, why not put a blue smd LED on one end, and a red or green or whatever colour on the other end, then make a tiny astable oscillator to make them change colour??
Not running any aftermarket FETs still stock!
thats under high load, right???
Carbon fibre ain’t that easy to source in tubular form, and i cbf getting it from merika, so alu pipe is the next best thing.
DGS i’d love some pipe!
Why did you wind the plasma dash to 37t??
My motor is a Tamiya Plasma Dash, with Neodymium magnets, magnet spacers, ball bearings, shimmed armature, 10 degree timed armature, beveled commutator grooves.
Running a 13T GPM Titanium pinion and TO220 Heatsink.
Quote:Jamie agreed on the IRF and the current – however, its good enough for most applications.A.
Oh yeah, they are fine, i only blew a 6×2 stack once, that was because my motor got hot enough to burn the enamel on the wire, making a short. All turbos, even nelly 1.0 would blow up from this.
My 9×2 stack got quite warm, above 40 degrees, on my setup, but it was dealing with some seriously high wattage.
The IRF7389 is a fantastic value for money, bang for buck mod. If money is no issue, then yeah there are better FETs, but they are only about 8% better.
ok, but dont be fooled, if it can handle 74 A great, but your cells will only give around 15A anyway.
Thread jacker! 187rwkw isn’t a bad achievement, but that 4.0 turbo straight six donk is capable of alot more.
Now all you need is an SMD version of those tri colour flashing/fading LEDs
Ah ok got it man, yeah he rang and its all getting fixed up, man how generous am I?? Giving away my baby! Which was going in my Xmod…..ah well i still have my 18t rotor!
Look there is no way that a tiny FET can handle 74A, have you seen wire that is designed to take 74 A????
Chino, Mini4WD motors DO NOT DRAW 74Amps!!!!! try a tenth (maybe slightly more) of that.
Sure their peak current might be a good 100A, but this is only for a couple of milliseconds at stall/startup.
Quote:Can you please for dave send third plasma for the weekend without Neos.Errr a 3rd??? I dont have anymore and these things don’t spring out of the ground, a plasma costs around $35 to build, but dave is shipping bearings to me anyway.
Quote:lol, nice try…. you can’t edit my memories, haha!punks these days, I dunno……
Somebody has PMT…..
WTF u talking about it’s fine!!
I’m here wills, okay so i go a bit stupid sometimes with everything…but so what….i love it
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