jamiekulhanek
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It sounds like the switch is arcing, which is limiting the current available, and causing RF noise which is amking the steering screw up.
Dude thats nothing, some research place built a rotary with a 1mm rotor.
Quote:Jamie buy a MMC (multimedia card) then you can download all the games that ever existed for N-gage, i currently hav THPS,The Sims,Sega Rally (best game) and other games on 1 card.
I’ll teach your how to do it.Do u think im a dumbarse, i bought an MMC last year!!! Thats half the point of the phone.
Im not a pirate perdonally, but getting multiple games on one card is tempting.
Sorry z beam, that is not for the racers, its a MF/OL thing
Tim, I also have an N-Gage, cool phone, but not many games in aussie.
I agree with betty.k. try the bushings!!
A trio??
Me, ph2t and……?
I can’t honestly see how changing to higher current FET would affect this, cause if they are getting starved, then it won’t help the problemone little bit, however, if the problem is something else, be my guest to bitch slap me.
Good to see ya uA haven’t seen you on here in ages.
That clear Tx is super cool.
Dont you jump on the bandwagon you dodgy bugger!!! :p
I see it as an opinion!
Dude, it’s at least a month till these are ready for sale, be patient.
Nice! FET And multi cell it to death!!
The I waver is basically 90% plug and play with mini Z parts.
As far as I know every part in the I waver is compatible with the mini Z except the servo gears, somebody correct me if i am wrong.
Well i dont consider my self a scum bag like he is, and i would’t really call them PD’s anymore as theres not much PD in them!!
If i made a 400% markup you would be looking at $160 a piece!! Final pricing is still to be confirmed but is a fair whack less than an NML, though dgs, you are the lab rat, you are gunna be the first to ever use one 🙂
man they cost the earth
it would cost $15-20 US to make each of those, not including labour
Dude mini Z’s come with fairly hard tyres, this is because they are long lasting and kyosho want you to upgrade, if you get really soft 10-20 deg tyres it will stick like shit
My tips:
Buy a GOOD, expensive iron, such as a weller soldering station. I have had a decent amount of experience with a weller soldering station (cant recall what model it is, will look when i get home) and a cheap dick smith iron.
The dick smith iron had me on the verge of tears all the time, i hate it so bad, that its going in the bin….no wait…..i’ll find a use for it!
The good irons operate on 12-24v, for sensitive components (they have their own transformer), usually have silicone insulated wire (this makes work about 5x easier, as with a cheap iron you are constantly fighting the stiff cable, as it never wants to bend the way you want!)
Also they are usually temperature controlled, or adjustable. And the tips are TOP quality.
NEVER buy a cheap crap iron, an expensive one will last for a very long time and is a joy to use!!
Right, buy yourself a couple of kits and practice, also practice stripping and tinning wire, generally you will do alot of this.
Soldering is really easy, SMD soldering is a degree harder, as everything is miniscule, i do a bit of SMD, and it’s still challenging, especially with a big conical tip!
I scored the skyline in my Avatar (for free!!!!), and the other day was given a silver 1983 Bluebird by my sister…….dunno wtf to do with it!
Bugger i wish i had my MR01 going at 100% and had the skill to drive it, I would have lapped yas on my 2nd lap!!
I don’t have the patience to read that clock!!! 5 minutes, a pen and paper to tell the time lol.
waste of an epoch board
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