jamiekulhanek
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Its surprising hey…..the retard thought his brake pads were calipers.
I’m actually intrigued as to how he got them off too!! Perhaps oxy torch/angle grinder??
Nice, i like the spare shocks on the roof racks in the 1st pic.
Want ur Xmod steering fixed dave??
DGS, I have a spare dash that i can build up and send over for the weekend, interested?
Always wondered what those acronyms meant.
Pitty R/C nenver really took off in tassie.
Yeah i agree, while the xmod is not a hobby grade r/c (close but no cigar) it doesnt mean that it hasnt got potential, the awd is a major plus for this car, but the xmod upgrades are just too tame. The simple propo is actually quite smooth on a track, and compared to a z, the difference is hard to notice. My major gripe with this car is the rear suspension, the camber changes with suspension action, limiting grip. The fornt suspension is a good design, if only they had made the rear the same.
I can see in the future, different classes of racing, awd, rwd, fwd in different divisions something that the Z can’t do.
The aftermarket hopups are popping up everywhere, making the Xmod more competitive and generating momentum in the racing fraternity.
Personally I was impressed with the Xmod out of the box, yet the power output is pathetic, i had a hard time trying to wheelspin and oversteer round corners. A motor swap to an X speed helped this, but still, there aint enough power.
FET modding these is a waste of time, a 3×2 stack is the maximum, you even have to chop out the bottom of the chassis to do it!
A FET board is a must, so i ordered a whoa nelly 1.1, and i’m putting in my old mate plasma dash.
With the extra power, it should be good!
When you say max i am assuming that is the peak, whoa nelly has 2 versions, the better version handles 16A RMS, which is more than any AAA cell can put out.
It’s peak value is most probably around the 120A mark. I don’t know but ask ph2t, he is the mastermind behind the whoa nelly.
Aaron, i don’t believe either IRF7389 or SI4562 can handle what the spec sheet says, the major problem with them is there is no easy way for the heat to dissipate.
If the spec sheet is correct, my 9×2 stack should handle 50+ A, but any more than 10A amd they get very hot.
Damn brendan, want to offload them wheels??
Well! I think i better look at a different sized boat then! and ifi’mgoing smaller with the boat, then li-poly/li-ion batts are a must.
Is that real dirt or modelers muck on that hummer?
hmmmmm i don’t mind the mf body at all, though i think the silver land cruiser looks the best.
Quote:DGS.. im making it its as pie basicaly get a a alu tube the rite thickness from ur LHS then cut it to leng and file off the little bits …And who told you that???? HEHE, can you send me a couple of shafts (cut to length, but not filed) as my LHS’s are all sold out of 3mm Alu tube.
Quote:warning:- speed is addictive.Gee! I didn’t know that!!
Oh yeah OTP, i had one of those AF boats I built, but chucked it cause it wasnt really built from scratch for R/C. Back then i was in grade 5 lol and was building it with a 6 cell AA NiCD pack, standard servo, standard esc and 380/400 motor……probobly unable to float
This one is going to be built light, but stronger than the standard kit form, And the kit motor, prop?? and shaft is bin material.
A brass shaft and steel tube should be a good combo.
Got no idea what sort of prop to go for!!
Don’t underestimate the setup, it can produce gigantic power, i.e. up to around 30 watts of power at the shaft on a plasma dash that has been worked.
As well as a watercooled can, i’m thinking about watercooled brush heatsinks too, i want to be able to keep this thing on full noise without any heating issues.
wow! neon tube! sick!
Quote:jamie what did you do to your PD and your FETS?Well, i left a shim out of the motor mount, which made the gear mesh too tight and overloaded the motor, which made it get hot enough to burn the enamell wire on the armature and make a dead short. The FETs couldn’t take this load at all and blew. There was a trail o smoke coming from under the car when it died.
Damn…….Rest in peace man.
g’day bill!! I got my xmod yesterday, ran it for about 5 minutes and decided…..it stinks…..it was like driving a 1.0 BCG.
So i removed that brass pinion (a bit of heat from a butane torch makes it slide off easily) and threw an x speed with neo magnets in it….the car is a lot more fun now but battery life is quite short compared to a Z. Speed is a bit faster than a stock motor with 9 teeth, but acceleration is like a stock with 6 teeth. The turning radius is a bit big.
I asked you a question in a PM over in bitpimps.
BTW I couldn’t quite figure out how to do the mod in the “Fuck your driveshaft in the ear” thread on bitpimps……
My z: 1st servo gear x5, plastic h plate x1, carbon fibre x2, 6×2 fet stack and tamiya plasma dash, front bulkhead, bulkhead mount, shell x2, stock diff spur, 2 tyre sets, 3 wheelnut sets…Ah what a waste
The JGTC supras use that engine i believe.
TURBO TRICKSTERS OMG!!! They fuckin rule! I remember i had a celica with working popup headlights and a few others (cant remember what)…Stick a 2c piece in the back slot……
Do you want the headlights to function? If so grab some 3500mcd+ white 3mm leds. They make stacks of light. I made a pair of headlights for my mini z porsche using a total of 16 Cd power. Huge light output, worked for 5 metres.
Damn, i’m thinking of treading the cold air induction path myself. I didnt know it made such a difference! She is a non turbo, 2.8 high compression head, straight 6, slightly worked with 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust and a trust pod filter. 110rwkw……weak
Funny you should mention boats! I am transplanting my 9×2 irf7389 pcb and servo into a non r/c aeroflyte tunnel hull boat. 6 cells and a watercooled, ball bearing plasma dash with nd magnets. I am hoping for 40km/h but have no idea what to expect!
My z drew around 10 A at full power, no probs. The energizer nimhs i had can supply 13 amps at maximum for short periods of time. I realy wanted to delve into sub 10 turns on 6 cells, but the motors just cant take it for long.
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