micro_Amps
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you can buy the center steering piece with the magnet and spring from toyeast, about 7 or 8 $ tho.
:)uAQuote:The way petrol prices are, might be cheaper catching a bird.I still prefer to drive, its not that long a drive, I do it a couple of times a year.
If you fly up, you still have to hire a car when you get there and that can get expensive.I am actually half serious about this. If there are a few people interested in trekking north from Melb (or even being picked up from somewhere along the way) I’d be interested in driving and sharing the costs.
It would be good to meet a few of the names we see so often in these pages, and do some organised racing. Send me a PM if you think you might be interested.
:)uAP.S. I’ll be at Camden and Mulgoa again in two weeks time.
Springwood is just west of Penrith.Edited by – micro_Amps on 19 May 2003 20:44:07
Z your avatar is slowing everything down too much
:angry:
:)uAAny one else wanna share the driving from Melbourne :smiley2:
:dead:uALooks like it runs on a liquid hydrocarbon, probably ethanol or something like that judging by the clear plastic tubing and the filter and little tap.
Some people are crazy
:)uAThey are also scarce from the other ‘usual places’ too.
There are a few still on ebay, I just picked one up for US$16.99 + $12 P&H ….US$ 28.99 thats about AU$46, so it was cheaper than a compact at Kmart.
Not a bad deal, I nearly bought 2.
:)uABut there is only $200 worth of stuff there ??.
Yes Jamie, the torque /rev graph should be linear, but it diminishes at higher revs
therefore it is inverse to a combustion engine
generally DC motors have higher torque at low revs, dropping off (linearly) as the rpm rises.
All that DC motor theory has finally came in usefull for something.
The Dyno is progressing,
I am getting output results for different motors, I would just like to get a higher output to play with. I am in the process of hand winding a mini DC generator to get a higher result, but progress on that is slow, it should work tho.
I’ll keep you posted.:)uA
I have just received some of these and the quality is excellent. Detailed signage and a nice coat of clear lacquer too
:DuAQuote:For about the same cost of a 3.8 motorI just bought some 3.8 motors for USD $5 ea
So your saying you will do a dual bat bit mod and supply a charger for US$5?? Hmmmm doubt it.My guess is one of those 3.6v 40mAh batts and a battery box connected to your own charger base, thats why the controller is required.
:)uA
Cmon Jamie, more details…..:)
Just scrape it out with a small screwdriver. It pretty much falls out when you have a poke at it anyway. I dont bother replacing it afterwards, and havent had any problems with cars going out of tune.
Nice set of pics too ph2t. Makes things easy to understand for everybody.
:)uAP.S. Burning the midnight oil again too I see :smiley2:
Ph2t, tuning the vari-inductor is a must when replacing the aerial. The car may still “stutter” in certain places around the house due to the Rx being slightly off tune and receiving reflected wave signals.
Heres how,…..
Put a rubber band around the Tx steering button and go for a walk, do it outside.
When the steering stutters, adjust th vari-inductance (the ‘pot’) 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. If the steering stops working, turn it the other way.
Keep stepping away from the Tx and adjusting at the same time until you cant get any better.
Dont hold the car too close to your body, and dont have your body between the car and the Tx.
And dont use a metal srewdriver.
Once complete, you have tuned your new aerial, and should have better range and stronger signal reception when it is within range.
Simple and effective.
If you are going to put a longer aerial on then it is worth the time tuning the electronics to suit it.:)uA
The material that the heatsink is made of would make absolutely no difference (electrically) to the running of the car.
:)uAImpreza took the words right out of my mouth.
Payaso, very nice work, can you give us a little info on the rims…
:)uAYeah looks good DarkTari. With a little more messing around and some delicate soldering you can get the capacitor (that little black ‘can’ thing) to sit lower and to the rear next to the motor. Looks sweet tho.
:)uAHey Panda, that link is no good.
But I would be interested to find out more info on all those lights.
:)uAIf you look at the internals of a motor, the ‘windings’ that carry the current are the part that gets hot.
These are spinning on the shaft, around the magnet which is in the center.
The only way for heat to be transferred out of one of these motors is for it to first warm up the shaft, then radiate the heat thru the magnet and into the external casing. (Or by radiating directly from the windings accross the air gap and into the external casing.) By the time all this happens a motor under extreme load or voltage will die anyway.
I dont think a different heatsink design will really benefit the cooling of a motor, but……
they look good, especially the black and the gold ones !
One way I can see to cool these motors is to pull them apart, drill a series of tiny holes in the casing and put them back together again. The spinning armature will push air thru the case and cool it. (Well thats the theory anyway)
These motors are reasonably difficult to stip and rebuild so if you are going to try it be very careful, and expect to destroy a few in the process.
:)uAYes the Compact’s covers are glued on.
Try running around the edge with a craft knife and prizing it up that way.
It will clip down after that but because you have already cracked the little clip off,(no problem) you need to hold the cover down with a little strip of clear sticky tape or something like that.And yes the batteries do rock, so does the service from that battery site.
:)uA
Thanks in advance Aaron, your tireless efforts have helped alot of people get alot more enjoyment out of this stuff.
Keep up the good work.
:)uAI have seen a solar bit racer on the net somewhere.
It used the solar cell to charge a capcitor and when it was charged took of and drove a few meters.
You would need a solar cell a little larger than just a calculator one I think. This guy was using one about 6cm x 10 cm.
Give it a try and let us know how you go.
:)uANot a stupid question at all. 🙂
Efarel, you have the basis of a very crude dyno there my friend. As you cause the wheels to spin, power is generated in the freespinning motor, which is now running as a generator, and your multimeter is showing you this.
The faster your powered bits can make the motor spin, the more power will be produced.
Unfortunately using this method will only show more power for a faster motor, it doesnt show a high power output for a slower ‘stronger’ motor.If you keep your multimeter on the same motor and change the motor that is doing the driving you should see differences between the driving motors. This is a difference between the speeds of these motors and to a lesser extent differences between the power of those motors too.
Well spotted Efarel, you have indeed found a way to determine output strength of bit motors.I am using a similar theory to determine the power produced from a BCG motor, but it is using a wound field DC generator. This will show the wattage (in milliWatts most likely) produced from the BCG motor driving the dyno.
Some good news, tonight I have been able to get the first decent power readings from the dyno.
I still have a way to go but it looks promising.
From here it is a matter of fine tuning, putting it all together and testing it further. Hopefully I can do this over the weekend.
It is getting closer.🙂 uA
Yep, Spanky you are dead right.
I wasnt assuming the spindle was the same size as the rear wheel. Actually the cycle computer is calibrated to the spindle not the BCG wheel size. So that anything causing the spindle to spin will have its speed measured by the computer.
You obviously have a good grasp of all this and I appreciate your feedback.I will be doing a spreadsheet of running speeds but I will wait until I have perfected the power measuring mechanics.
I have achieved some promising results so far but lots of work still needed
:)uAI would probably do both, respond to posts left by people who are not online and chat to people that are in the chat room. What a great idea.
That’d be excellent if it could be done.Just an idea…..what are the chances if extending the range of cars covered? I know this site already covers miniZs, tin race cars, and of course BCGs, but there are many others too.
Is it worth having a historic section (original char-g, Keyence mad tune) other micro RC car section (eg Puchi Maru) new releases section (Tomica Die cast series)an IR section (eg Digi Q) Probably not going to be alot of daily chat in these, but just to get info online on what else is out there.
:)uAWe have gone down this track before…..
this place incorrectly labels the batteries we use as 1/4AAA, we all know they are 1/3AAA right.
If you buy them from the link in ph2ts post, buy their 1/4AAA NiMh cells, they are very good, and cheap at US$12 for 8, and they are the correct ones for us.
:)uA -
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