micro_Amps
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
No problem for me, might be your browser.
🙂 uAThat is amazing. So sad, so strange. We got some of it through the news here, but this is an insiders view.
Last i saw it looked like a few measly servo saver parts in the latest edition, I dont know what number it was though.
:)uAI noticed things were sometimes a little slow to load, figured it was the latest ‘worm’ doing the rounds of the host server.
All looks better now though.
:)uAPh2t, a simple balance method is this, its a bit rough but it works.
Put the armature you have rewound on to 2 rails so it can roll back and forth on the shaft.
The heavy spot will go straight to the bottom.
File a bit off the segment (or drill a small hole) so that the segment that fell to the bottom now has a tiny amount removed.
Repeat until the armature has no definite place to stop, you will find that now the armature is very close to balanced.
:)uAThe ultrra low resistance motors can draw up to about 350mA locked rotor. These ones usually show up as higher torque motors as well.
:)uASaturdays are no good for me at all as I work every Sat these days.:sad:
Just keep making plans, something will fit in eventually.
:)uATim, you tried to post that pic from your PC, you need to host it on the web somewhere and then link to it so it comes up here.
:)uAI can recommend both the Pirahna peak, and the SJ Swallow, I have both and they are excellent.
:)uAGuys, the red waxed bananas are organically grown, thats all.
:)uAJeez guys, didnt realise it was going to be a demolition derby.:shock:
Track looks good though, we might have to organise another meet there in future.
:)uASorry PB, I’m tied up in a few other things and wont be able to make it.
:sad:uAQuote:The circuit is always on with respect to the drivetrain h-bridge & steering h-bridge. The Source pins on the p-chan fets in both h-bridges are connected directly to Vcc.This is standard, the fets form part of the onboard ESC circiut, you will probably find that the (-ve) is connected directly to the N chan fets as well.
If you think of it as a 1/10 scale car, the batteries go to the ESC, and the motor goes to the ESC, the servo control wire just governs how much it is turned on, and the switch only switches the controlls not the ESC.
If the ‘on/off’ switch switched all the power to the car it would also be switching the large motor current as well, and the switch would have to be large and heavy. Essentially the ESC is ‘the switch’.
If the car is starting to heat up (or fry) go straight for the batteries and remove them. As soon as you remove the first one the circuit will be open, and the frying should stop.So now you know for the next time, because I know there will be a next time.:smiley2:
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 11 April 2004 08:15:02
Ultra low gate voltage on the fets, down around 0.4 volts, not enough to turn the usual (high current) fets on.
And the bridge that is in it is only rated at 2 amps.
:)uAEdited by – micro_Amps on 11 April 2004 00:03:04
Man !! Talk about toast.:shock:
Must be giving it a real hard time.
What are you running?
:)uAYeah, they look like LXX scales.
Not fet modable BTW, and quality is ok, but not miniZ standard.
They are $25 for a reason.
:)uAHehe, might get a few nasty comments, (GTF off the track with that thing….).
I’ll see what I can do.
:)uAYeah they are good stuff, I have been using the 800 AAAs and the 2000 AAs. Using a delta peak charger they usually take more than their rating as well.
:)uAYeah they are good stuff, I have been using the 800 AAAs and the 2000 AAs. Using a delta peak charger they usually take more than their rating as well.
:)uAIf you do the usual ‘properties’ thing and copy the address to your browser search line, then the pics work.
It was a little tricky to get this thing running, but its insane.
:)uAIf you do the usual ‘properties’ thing and copy the address to your browser search line, then the pics work.
It was a little tricky to get this thing running, but its insane.
:)uAThe inductors are $1 each at Jaycar, but are a little larger than standard and tricky to get in there.
They are 0.86uH and 5.6uH, these values are not easily obtainable, but you can substitute a 1uH and a 4.7uH, then retune the trim inductor and check the range and all should be good again.You MUST remember to take the batteries out before you do ANY work on it, there are several ways to fry the inductors.
:)uA
Edited by – micro_Amps on 04 April 2004 10:44:39
I was wondering if anybody went to the Melbourne Toy Trade Fair.
See any other goodies Panda?
:)uAI am guessing here a bit, but I would imagine that the same 2 AA cells connected in parallel (1.5 volts) and then connected to a micro car cell would charge it, but very slowly.
Probably 30 minutes (again, guessing) would fill the cell, but I would advise doing some current readings before leaving it on for long periods of time.
:)uAAnyone that has ZZ questions, feel free to post them here, there are some of us who have modded the hell out of them, and can answer just about anything.
As for a seperate ZZ forum, I agree with Aaron. Without Radio Shack (Tandy Electronics in Oz) releasing them for sale here (and they never will, I asked) there just isnt enough local traffic to warrant a seperate section. Not that the only traffic here is of AU origin, but still.
All posts are welcome, and if people want to start topics on ZZs then great, other members might even learn something about a another different type of micro r/c car.
After all, they are only an Ebay purchase away if someone is interested enough.
As for ‘bouncing’ people from the forum, I tend to think that given enough rope, the people that are just in it to stir up trouble will end up hanging themselves in front of all the other members.
:)uA -
AuthorPosts
