oldtamiyaphile
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betty, the 4wd kit is severely overrated. It makes the Xmod have a huge turning radius. I’ve got 1/10 cars that can turn in a smaller area.
But no it won’t fit anything other than a Xmod.
Merc, in general, I’m happy with stock motors. Speed is retative to the area you run it. If you’re running on a salt lake, then even a car capable of 200km/h will seem slow. Run a stock Mini-Z on a nice tight track and it will be heaps of fun. For all the Mini/ Micro cars, you really should built some sort of track.
It may have 4wd option, but the 5mm ground clearance means a 2wd Mini-Z will whip it everytime off road. If you look at the design, there is very little room for bigger tyres.
A Mini-Z Overland is the hot ticket for off road.
I wanted a 1/35 4×4 R/C Hummer, and the Xmod is about the right size, but I’m going to scratch built the chassis, I can do better for less money 😆
Well anyway, I’ll have my Xmod sometime next week. I’ve more or less already decided I don’t want it. Unless it turns out better than I expect, keep an eye out for it Aussies. Own one of very few in the country 👿
In my book, if it’s not propo, its junk, but that’s another topic.
You should be able to pick up something like that for around $100, another $40 for a servo, and $50 for a TX.
I’m now scratch building propo cars in 1/32 scale.
I guess the bigger question is do we need yet another micro forum?
Personally, I think it’s better to contribute to an existing knowledge base than trying to re-invent the wheel with a new one.
Am I missing something? An Aussie forum for a car you can’t get in OZ?
An RB Serpent will do 1-100 in 2 seconds. No over weight buggy can match a 1/8 onroad car.
No one outside the US can get a XMod unless they have a buddy in the states who can hook them up.
An RB powered Serpent would be way faster…
We know about the MRS4, but at that price and size, I think most people would rather buy 1/10.
For indoors, even the 1/24 cars are on the big side.
Yup, many planes have flown on bit motors, but their life is very limited. Wes Tecnik sell $50 bit motors that will last more than a few flights.
Yeah, notice the complete absence of bit parts LOL.
Off the top of my head, a Z weighs ~300g (0.3kg)
0.3 x 28^3 =6585kgs!
You’re right. I always though weight scaled down correctly too:
Eg 1/10 car, 1.5kgs
1.5 x 10^3=1500, so it’s about right
The regular Mini 4x4s are ancient, but the R/C versions are only about a year old.
Totally useless though, as compared to proper slot cars. I wonder why Tamiya bothered. They should go back to making slot cars or go back to making a new TamTech. Not this.
jamie, so your Z weighs 2.049 kgs? Made the whole thing of tungsten?
Yup, full propo and all parts fit.
What annoys me is that for $55 this could have been a great fully propo car, compatible with real TX’s. But no, RS decided they had to get it under the magic $50 so they gave un 16 steps.
I need 512 steps, if for on other reason than to use all my 1/10 radios. The XM has already shown range and interferance dificulties.
$30 is what S1’s regularly go for on ebay. Since you’re in Canada, you can’t get a XM anyway. You should be angry at that…
Don’t you think the Epoch is much better for the same or less money?
‘Hobby Quality’ of course people will disagree on the exact definition. If people collect toy cars as a hobby, does that instantly make them hobby quality? If I have fun taking off my pants, does that make them hobby class? If that’s the case then everything is hobby class, and the term means nothing.
Best definition we have is a model which is compatible with industy standard equipment. Another good one is that all parts are available separately. If you strip a servo gear in a XM, you’re up for another complete car ($50), not a $5 gear set like the Z.
uA, all hobby cars are 512 step, that’s what we consider fully propo, a select few cars are 1024, but those systems are mostly for aircraft. Also that’s 16 steps both ways, ie 8 fwd, 8 rev/brake. Imagine driving a real car, pegged at full throttle with only 8 gears. Smooth? Hardly.
Nope, the ‘real cheap eBay clones’ are just that.
They’re neither propo nor compataible with Z parts. When some one buys a Z they often replace a lot of it with aftermarket stuff, so buying the base car as cheap as possible makes sence.
They’re not bad, you’ll want to add bearings and a ball diff. Some people have had minor problems with them. Worth the bucks I say.
I’m not in the US so I can’t buy one, I do have one on the way however.
If you’re still paying $130 for a Mini Z, then you’re getting ripped. Around $90 is where they start. Of course, an Epoch for $30 gives you 512 steps, and lets you use real controllers, not that junky thing you get with an XM. For an extra $5 they could have given us a real nice 512 step car that could have been a real contender, but no.
Hey, I don’t hate RS for no reason. I wanted the SE to be good, it wasn’t. I hoped that they might redeem themselves with the XM, but nope.
Yes, I do need 512 steps of propo (heck I have 1024 step models) so I’ll be gutting all that RS crap and replacing it with real electronics.
It’s not a hobby class car for many reasons, the biggest is that you can’t get parts. Sure you can get a new AWD kit, but what if you need something like servo gear set? You gotta shell out another $50. With a Z, it’s $5.
uA, yes they can be fet modded, but they need those combination type chips, rather than the stand alone SMT type used in Bits. As such, the hardest part is identifying the correct replacement.
So, in summary, I hate the XM, but plan on building the best one in the world…
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 28 October 2003 20:11:42
No, they are not propo, only 16 steps, pretty lame compared to the Z’s 512.
And it takes $100 for an Xmod and the options it needs to keep up with a stock Mini-Z, for which price you can get a Z. Like the SE, the XM is a bit of a disapointment.
Certainly not ‘hobby quality’.
That said, a 99km/h motored tin racer can beat a Mini-Z, but that certainly don’t make it a better car.
Peak charging the stock cells will give you around 20mins of run time.
Peak charging the stock cells will give you around 20mins of run time.
If you get the light pattern worked out, put me down as your first customer 🙂
I’m not into Bits anymore but I’ll make an exception to make use of this circuit.:smiley16:
That’s really cool, though I’m not convinced by the flash pattern. I think for it to really work correctly, you need more than two lights. I think all the police cars now use four lights or more.
You’re right, the first heli was this one:
http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/history/postwwi/ffh.htm
If you call 6 feet flying I guess.
uA, I take it you’ve tried the MOSFET mod already?
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