oldtamiyaphile
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Buy one if you can’t afford a TA04 or better still wait TB-02. It’s almost a TC3.
I didn’t like the car much at all until I added 4wd. Is the Z better? Surem but it can’t drift like a 4wd XM. Until Kyosho release something 4wd, there will be a strong place for the XM.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 21 December 2003 16:52:10
Who’d have ever thought, huh? It’s really
not my loss.I assume Cam means Q’s about the banning.
I’m here.
I don’t want to comment on what happened. It’s really not important in the big scheme of things. It’s sad, it’s a shame, but in the end it’s for the best.
Thanks for everyone’s support, I’ve gotten quite a few e-mails, and appreciate them all.
I know one site that’s going to go straight on the MRCC ban/filter list I suspect.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 21 December 2003 07:07:30
The TRFs are pretty much the best, and most companies have one or two good products (eg Traxxas and the Maxx) but the others are more just filling space on shelves.
Tamiya make it all, and while some cars do fall short (most of their nitros), they are the only company that set such a universally high standard, across pretty much all vehicle types.
It’s a shame the planned new buggy has been axed, from what little I could find on it it was looking really nice.
The new 1/18 monster is a must have, I just wish they’d enter the Mini-Z market with a Xmod like car, but with all the bugs fixed. And TRF options of course 😀
Same as Mini-Z. 4xAAA for the car, 8xAA for the TX.
AFIK, both the shops in my area do get their parts from the importer.
I’m sure they get their Kyo stuff from Dawn, it’s just that nothing is ever on the shelf, always have to wait a week or two. Granted, because of this, I haven’t bought a Kyo car in 2 years, so things may have changed. Other problem is once a Kyo goes OOP, forget about parts altogether. That’s why I like Tamiya so, you can still get TA-01 parts…
Maybe the solution is NTC3.
They are slower than Z’s, about the same with the Stage 2 motors.
It’s very hard to coment on value. Personally I think overall I have say a Z is better value, and the only time I like my Xmod is for drifting on hard floors (then I love it), but on tiles, carpet, outdoors (less ground clearance than a Z), everywhere else, it’s boring, though to be fair, I don’t really like the Z on those surfaces either (get an OL).
Most people are all about speed, speed, speed. I’m not. The take a Z to a parking lot and wonder why it seems slow…I like to drive my cars on tight slippery tracks (carpet has too much grip IMO – I love laminated floors).
Biggest problem is XM’s are very, very loud. I’d guess it’s almost as loud at full throttle as a .12 nitro car at idle 😯
Another down side is that when drifting, the car is very hard on the motor/batteries/ESC. The motor gets too hot to touch and run time drops right down from 45mins to about 20. To get the heatsink (which should have come in the AWD kit) you need to get the Stage 2 motor upgrade.
It’s early days, but I have some durability concerns too.
Another down side is that getting 14 3×6 bearings individuallly is quite expensive. A Z bearing set costs AU$10+ shipping, while I ended up getting 2 Mini-X bearing sets (12 bearings that fit) for $30 because it was cheaper to throw out the extras than buying separate…
In the end I’d say if you don’t have a Z, get one first, if you have somewhere to drift, get the XM and AWD. If you already have a Z and want something different, have a look at the XM. If you have the time, skill etc to do some custom mods, the XM is very appealing, because there is a lot that could be made better with custom work. If you want to play out doors, get an OL or the new Monster OL.
Overall, I really like it (let’s face it, drifting is just plain cool – it looks like a real rally car exiting tight corners), but as I’ve said, I’m looking forward to making up some custom parts, I’m getting a lathe in the new year, maybe a mill after that. I plan on doing a full propo mod and building an outdoor track using styrene for the racing surface.
I am working on a full review, I’ll post it when done.
I live in Perth and always have trouble getting anything Kyosho, no problem getting HPI parts.
Problem with RS bearings is they’re not sealed, so dirt will wreck them in no time.
I’m using 3×6 bearings as per some Mini-Z bearings.
I would say get the tyre and suspension kit. I didn’t and now wish I had a few more tuning options. The RS bearings suck (and I understand can only be bought on-line), get some sealed bearings from the LHS, Boca etc.
I put the ‘AWD’ kit in yesterday (ball diff in the front), polished the floors, and went for some drifting practise. It is pretty good fun like this, but even in my lounge room I only have enough space for an 8 track or simular. In this config. I do like it much more, but that turning radius really needs to be fixed.
I also took it outside to play around the pergola posts making a sort of track, but even in all that space the turning radius is still lacking.
Another thing I discovered is you can’t play with it at night, or you’ll wake anyone else in the house…Epoch is still the ultimate indoor car, and whisper quiet too.
I guess, if you already have a MZ and want to try something new/different, then the XM is not bad. If the idea of 4wd sound interesting, and you want to give some of that Japanese style drifting a go, then it may be the car for you. Just don’t think you’re getting good value.
I have mixed feelings about the Xm, mine needed the steering fixed out of the box…
Noisy, poor handling, hideous rear suspension, pretty slow (certainly slower stock that stock Z) very heavy, it’s a neat car, but I think a stock Z is a better deal (I spent US$75+shipping).
RS are so full of crap, A arm front suspension my ass…it’s a sliding pillar practically the same as a Z, and the Z has a huge advantage when it comes to the rear suspension.
So yes, I’d rather take a stock Z and get a quiet running, faster car, that handles better and is fully propo.
I hate the way they slow when you steer (off boost) it sound like an OK idea, but sucks in practise.
Yup, Tamiya is the best clear coat out of a can, but most people are happy with auto clear or worse, like bunnings clear (gulp!).
4 tec sucks. It’s a 50 year old design.
Get a HPI over Kyosho because parts are easier to get, and way more options.
Trash, the Trumpeter rail gun is a 1200 part model kit, box weighs 4kg, in 1/35 scale it s about a metre long.
I plan on towing it behind a R/C train (still running on tracks – R/C just for throttle), and possibly converting it to a carbide cannon with a machined barrel. Hard to comment on how likely this is until I get it. If I decide it’s too hard (like the firing loads being too much for such a detailed model), I’ll build a small cannon into a gondolla.
I m getting Trumpeter’s 1200 part 1/35 scale Leopold railgun :approve: maybe a Yokomo Sonic if they’re out in time, otherwise maybe an Overland.
NO a ‘ute’ isn’t a pick up. A ute is based on a car, therefore the only thing US that qualifys as a ute is the original Ford Ranchero, which was based on the first series of Falcon (and sold here as the Falcon Ute). Most people just call everything a ute, even though it’s technically incorrect.
Anyways, nice work.
A rally history set would be awesome.
Peugeot 205, Lancia Stratos and Volvo Amazon.
There are plenty of other classic rally cars, choices are endless.
Lancia 037, Fulvia & Delta, Renault Alpine % R5 Maxi, Ferrari 288, Audi S1, Austin Metro VR6, and countless more.
Porsche history set would be cool:
928, 914 and Carrera GT would be my picks, but how could you have a Porsche set without a 911?
A rally history set would be awesome.
Peugeot 205, Lancia Stratos and Volvo Amazon.
There are plenty of other classic rally cars, choices are endless.
Lancia 037, Fulvia & Delta, Renault Alpine % R5 Maxi, Ferrari 288, Audi S1, Austin Metro VR6, and countless more.
Porsche history set would be cool:
928, 914 and Carrera GT would be my picks, but how could you have a Porsche set without a 911?
Sorry if my last post implied that I got it already. I’m actually still waiting. Saturday I hope, or I’ll be pulling out my hair all Sunday 😀
I’ll post as soon as I have it.
Peedee, apart from always making me think you’re someone else, that avatar’s copyrighted, using someone else’s band width and if you look close, you’ll actually see it’s super imposed over Bill’s face. I’d get something more original if I were you.
That’s a very good price, is that from Dinball? Once you lock the diff, 4wd isn’t that important.
Now that the Yokomo Sonic is imminent, I’ll be getting one of those, they are perfect! I can finally have some 1/32 truck racing. Around AU$220 and worth every cent!
Anyway, I’ve decided I’ll probably keep the Xmod. I’ll get another Yokomo truck body for it, and I’m going to build a centre diff to get rid of the understeer 😀
There’s only a 7 page topic on them here :p look one topic below yours…
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 02 December 2003 01:49:18
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