VR-4
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i just handwound a motor with flat wire like the trinty flatliners and wow i made a 50 turn thats 2 times faster than the x speed. only prob is the wire is expensive but winding the motor is easyer with it. try ta find the wire then give it a try.
the fastest is the mini 4wd plasma dash the jr is for tamiyas new car like the mini z.
heres the motors you want for diff tacks there all $5 usd but the plsma is $10
atomic tuned
jet tuned
hyper dash
mech dash
ultra dash
plasma dashthere all really good motors and only thing you need ta do is change the brushes on all but the plasma to pn racing brushes.
not shure im looking into buying 1 so i’ll let you know when i find out more
all good but the motor. i like the new trinty flat lines i uesed a 15 turn d4 in my old t3.
the gearing you want for a truck with a 17 turnj is 9.98:1 10.44:1 for a 16 turn and 10.94:1 for a 15 turn
to find out the ratio of your gearing do this math
spur gear davided by pinion= spur pinion ratio
pinion ration times final drive = final drive ratio.heres some tips on the t4.
when you buld the diff polish the thrust plates it will make the diff alot smoother. polish the plates on the slipry clutch.
for your motor remember hard brushes have more ware on your com. but they make more power and you can allways cut your com.
DONT use silver brushes they were only ment for onroad whare theres less strane on the motor.
i like phantom death star brushes but heres a tip get drilled brushes and put a small amount of cotton in them anbd soak the cotton in com drops it will give you the power of the drops longer but remember not to soak your com in the drops becouse you can get “brush glaze”
motors for 1/10 offroad trucks are 16-10 turn and will give you about 4 min of good hard run time depending on your cells.
as far as radio and esc those are good choices but i would rather have a hitec aggresser #125753 or it with 1 servo and a esc #125725 look in to these remotes for beaing only $50 there really nice. esc i would pick a keyence zero extreme but i dought you got the money ta blow on 1 so i would pick a novak fusion, explorer, duality, or a lrp. i foun that some of the duratrax say they can handle a 16 turn but they dont and burn out its kinda like the novak cyclone saying ity can hand 2 of any turn motors and i seen 2 orion core mods 8 turns fry it.
the trucks is kick ass outta the box dosent need anything becouse it comes with everything i would spend money on my esc rather than cells and a radio.
but if your just gonna bash around in your backyard that your set up is more than enought.
im hooking up some gold plated 220’s that are adj. payed $1.40 each at radioshack
you can use a 220 there more than the outher fets and take up more space but i seen it done, i seen them on 4 cars and all of them had them lined up and a hole cut in the front window like a 1/10 nitro car ta keep um cool and from what im told they run alot cooler than the fets were all useing.
next time i see one of the guys with them i’ll ask them how they hooked them up and how they hold up in crashes.
it was fun lol only about $40 in damage and aother $90 for the body
wind it in a pattern so its wide at the bottom and thin at the top.
the plasma dash is really really fast faster than a pn 38turn
yeah i bent some lunsford titanum turbuckles and distryoyed a cvd in the front most of the time it was in the air doing death rolls and when it landed it just slid
tower has tc3’s rtr for aboud $250 usd
thats what happens when your doin 90mph and ya get a mean headwind when you hit a bump and that wind gets under your car.
get the pn carse with neo magnets and ball berings. and patter wind your motor it takes a while but its way faster also use more strands of wire i use a 7X4 what is just 4 seprate wires wound you can twist them but it takes a lil power away.
also ballance the motor just make a holder that holds to bearings and spinn the motor and see what end needs weight and add a small ball of epoxy or try drilling the heavy side.
now to run anything lower than a 10 turn you gotta use either a orion esc or a novak spy esc just take a look at how a turbo hooks up and look at the esc and it will all make sence.
you can switch the pcb’s i got a f1 pcb in my racer you just gotta take off the xtall holder off the racer solder it onto the f1 pcb
for solid colors use a air brush with some testers model paint. for doing stripes and studd just use testors paint makers then just spray a clear coat on it after
yub they can get the diff ta fit if you grind abuch of alu. off it
my car after a crash
if that dosent work go to http://briefcase.yahoo.com/electric_banana_2000
and go to the crash linkevader st kicks all those cars butt’s
20-turn modified motor over 20mph outta the box
futaba radio system
duratrax sprint esc “only handles 20 tunr and higher”
replacemt on broken suspension parts for a year
slipry clutchabout $160usd rtr
for $199usd you can get a rtr rc10 t3 what is better
reedy 20 turn mod
hitec lynx 2 radio system
alu. shocks
ball berings
ball diff
lrp esc
proline tirestmaxx tires are to small the new ofna trucks use the same size but if you want bigger tires than the stock stampeed ties nothing sez get outta my way beeyouch like big old clod tires on a stampeed just use atleast a 80oz stering servo becouse it takes some balls ta turn those tires
sorry i got 5 names on this fourm and ben on this forurm for over year and 1/2. look at some of the ?’s you asked you are a dumb azz my friend.
lets face it not everyone is a noob like you and the x speed is a turd and a waste of money. and if you put a metal gear to a plastic gear that metal ger is just gonna strip the outher gear.
heres my setup hich
topcad front cover
powerline racing roll shock set with spring kit
miniz racer.com cf o plate set
miniz racer.com ball diff with ceramic balls
wide soft foams on the back
semi wide med. foams on the front
flatline racing unobtanium king pins
pn 4g motor mount
titanum screw set
pn alu. wheel nuts
miniz racer.com dry bearing set
alu. rear axle
megatech front sway bar
megatech alu. knuckles
megatech slider
pn drop spacers ta lower my front end
nml handwound for tec. tracks
flatline racing 7turn tripple for ovals
1100mha batt’s nicd
900mha nimhif you go with foam tires i’ll show ya a little trick on tuneing the back with a o ring that improves handleing alot.
heres a list of what to buy in what order
sum it up in to some groupes
power
handleing
traction
damage controle/ bling blingfirst is power. i use sanyo 1100 mha cells in my car there hard to find and only come in nicd so if you use um you need a good peak charger so you dont distroy the cells.
also under this gold plated ter. are a good investment. i bought mine fro a company called flatline racing for $30usd it cuts down on resastance improveing power and run times.
next is handleing this would be whare plates and suspension settings come in.
theres alot of plate types i use a o plate with a roll shock set unless its a hard o plate then you dont need the roll shock set. also there some v w x and y plates i like the x and the w plates most but there hard to find and there kinda pricy.
as for the front suspension i like useing unobtanuim becouse there super smooth. you can use harden steel or polish the stock and they will work fine at a 1/4 of the coust of unobtanum.
also this would be whare you add + or – toein you can also add a sway bar kit to improve cornering.
traction is key to winning with high power motors or handwounds. for this you can try diff. tires and diff. set ups with widths of tires. i like foam tires better but you can get rubber tires from 18 most traction to 50 that have the worst traction i ever seen.
to add traction on cars with fets and handwounds you can either add weigh under the body over the motor mount or with some motormount you can use the exta screw hole to use small lead disk and screw them onto the back of the motor mount.
next is damage controle/bling bling. this would be replaceing ALL your plastic servo gears to alu. becouse if you replace 1 the alu. gear will just eat the plastic gears. this would also be replaceing your plastic parts with alu. and nothing sez bling bling like anodized alu. it also makes it to when you smack your car into a wall or a table it dosent hurt it much.
turbos are like a 2X2 fet stack or a 2X6 for some
they rance in price from $10-50usd the V@ is a really nice turbo if you dont like soldeing fets and it only coust about $17usd
but also if your crafty just get a 4aaa batt holder and trace the stock chassy and make a fiberglass or cf chassy just remember to seal the ends with superglue or CA. if your even more crafty make a pan style chassy and switch over to a normal reciver and a esc and just hook the stock kyosho servo to the reciver “pm me if you need help with that” i made 3 diff types and they dont handle like i like my car to so im working on a scaled down a adapted version of the orion t power chassy.
also if you want a cj chassy and your looking to buy 1 the only chassy worth buying is the pro z handles good and looks good guy up at my track has 1 the liquid mini z chassy is crap and its a fryed pcb wateing to happen.
oh yeah try useing lego tires they seem to work better than the stock z tires and they got a little more side wall and my z hulls butt over carpet
motors some berings wheel nuts and springs thats about it
i got 2 a red and a yellow now :)but you cant use the enzo on old z the motor sits to high for the back i tryed it on my old z and no luck but the new chassy fits any old body.
i got 1 mr2 still in a sealed box im willing to part with has the yellow enzo body. i’ll only ship it in the us or canada becouse of shipping coust. if you want it e mail me at Toobadneil@aol.com for pics and i’ll let you know how much i want for it.
i got a xxx-t graphite matt francis editiion and i love it handles good and its got all the hop ups in 1 box and everything is anodized red i payed $249 usd for mine.
but the new rc10t4 is made the same allmost. so really its a hard choice. but what color do you like blue or red red get the xxx-tgraphite mf edition blue get the t4 factory team.
but there kinda like a camaro in a firebird allmost the same car but a few diff parts
i would say either are nice cars most people hate the t4 or hate the xxx-t becouse its like ford and chevy but i like losi ever since i had my xx-t cr graphite pluse
lrp is nice. for a stampeed i would get a rooster becouse they can handle nice monster truck motors 12-15 turns and can handle extra cells or you can run it like i run my clod 12 volts all you need is a reciver pack pack for the reciver and 2 packs wire it up to a keyence zero extreme and bam you got so much power in the truck.
i sold my savage and im gettin a monster gt soon my clod handels better than a rc10t4 maybe becouse i got a ripper chassy on it 🙂
i like the mini z racer more becouse they tend to be cheeper and hop ups aint as much but there not that much more. i plan on getting 1 in about a week. the f1’s pcb isent as protected like the racer.
my advise is get a racer first then get a f1. i got 3 racers andi’ll have a f1 next paycheck
they handle really good but if you hit somthing head on with a f1 kiss your font wing goodbye and from pics i seend a nice low wind motor for the f1 like a -20 turn is outta the question becouse of the plastic mount. also you cant stack fets unless you hook them up like i did on my racer even then theres a big risk of messing them up in a wreck.
or you can order the mini z mr2 from japan like i did. i got the enzo body and they handle really good
when you get it dont waste your money on a x speed there junk get a pn 38turn and a v2 turboor do a 2X6 fet stack
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