z-beam
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mmmm murcilago!
this is what you want yours done like isnt it pete?
ouch!
this was made from the same kit as mine, sudenly not so unique now:sad: i like mines colour better tho…
heres a nice idea, 2 part rims that can be split to fit a narrow chassis and used together for wide set up…
1.first step is if the windows are clear and you want them to stay that way, mask them off using a modelling masking tape. do not use cheap stuff as it wont work anywhere near as good on this scale. i use tamiya masking tape because of its quality and its size. why do you mask first? because when you use sand paper to remove or smooth out surfaces sometimes you will accidently scratch windows and headlights and this is to be avoided.
2. bodywork. start of simple and work your way up as you modify your bcg’s. make sure you have a definite plan to each part of the modification e.g. side skirts can be made from plsticard and or putty attached to the sides of the car.when useing putty shape the rough outline of what you want in the end and once it is dry then cut it down with a scalpel (razor and make sure its sharp!) then finally sand it back with 800-1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper (the black sheets). for filling gaps with putty use a small amount over the affected area and then using a peice of plasticard like a butterknife scrape back the exess so that the gap is filled.
3.prepairing the car. sand the car back a bit to make the surface ready for the paint to stick to it better. check all the masked areas for damage and if damaged re-apply them. romove any stickers if the body is a clone make sure the car by the end of this stage is free of lumps,molding lines,goo from stickers and greasy fingerprints and that the surface is a little textured for the paint to stick…
4.painting you will need blutac and a 1 liter soda bottle to attach the body to. simply fill the bottle one quater with water, put the lid on, stick a chunk of blutac onto the lid and attach the car body (without the wheels/chassis!) to the lid. you now have a stable painting platform! have a bucket of warm/nearly hot water to sit your sprays in so that they are thinned out a little and spray more eavenly. use primer first (a nuetral undercoat) and then once that is dry use your colour of choice. wiat for that to completely dry and then remove the masking tape carefully.
what next? you could maybe try using two colours for your final coat but most important of all experiment to get a feel and understanding of spray…
here i used 5 different shades from silver all the way to deep metalic blue. this was a beat up mini-z that i decided to do some experimenting with…
with this car i used a deep metalic blue with 5 coats of clear(transparent) purple. it made it a really deep metalic colour that looks allmost black in weak light. the roof was painted by hand in many coats with watered down white acrylic paint. and finally 3 coats of clear went on the top of everything to protect it.
the flames where done by hand on this, find the thread started by me in the bcg general discussion section. you might have to go back a fair few pages to find it… enjoy reading about the sites past!1.first step is if the windows are clear and you want them to stay that way, mask them off using a modelling masking tape. do not use cheap stuff as it wont work anywhere near as good on this scale. i use tamiya masking tape because of its quality and its size. why do you mask first? because when you use sand paper to remove or smooth out surfaces sometimes you will accidently scratch windows and headlights and this is to be avoided.
2. bodywork. start of simple and work your way up as you modify your bcg’s. make sure you have a definite plan to each part of the modification e.g. side skirts can be made from plsticard and or putty attached to the sides of the car.when useing putty shape the rough outline of what you want in the end and once it is dry then cut it down with a scalpel (razor and make sure its sharp!) then finally sand it back with 800-1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper (the black sheets). for filling gaps with putty use a small amount over the affected area and then using a peice of plasticard like a butterknife scrape back the exess so that the gap is filled.
3.prepairing the car. sand the car back a bit to make the surface ready for the paint to stick to it better. check all the masked areas for damage and if damaged re-apply them. romove any stickers if the body is a clone make sure the car by the end of this stage is free of lumps,molding lines,goo from stickers and greasy fingerprints and that the surface is a little textured for the paint to stick…
4.painting you will need blutac and a 1 liter soda bottle to attach the body to. simply fill the bottle one quater with water, put the lid on, stick a chunk of blutac onto the lid and attach the car body (without the wheels/chassis!) to the lid. you now have a stable painting platform! have a bucket of warm/nearly hot water to sit your sprays in so that they are thinned out a little and spray more eavenly. use primer first (a nuetral undercoat) and then once that is dry use your colour of choice. wiat for that to completely dry and then remove the masking tape carefully.
what next? you could maybe try using two colours for your final coat but most important of all experiment to get a feel and understanding of spray…
here i used 5 different shades from silver all the way to deep metalic blue. this was a beat up mini-z that i decided to do some experimenting with…
with this car i used a deep metalic blue with 5 coats of clear(transparent) purple. it made it a really deep metalic colour that looks allmost black in weak light. the roof was painted by hand in many coats with watered down white acrylic paint. and finally 3 coats of clear went on the top of everything to protect it.
the flames where done by hand on this, find the thread started by me in the bcg general discussion section. you might have to go back a fair few pages to find it… enjoy reading about the sites past!
