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Off topic I know, but how does that Kodak 4900 go? That’s the 6meg Easy pic one isn’t it? I’ve been considering getting one. After doing a fair bit of research I think it’s the best on the market – but I’ve never actually had a go.
Nick
Sorry about the silence… got too many project on at the moment, bit-char has taken a back seat.
Barrelll, still no pics, but basically I had to cut the support post for the standard battery, bend one of the terminals down, then solder a wire to the other one and connect it to the top of the battery.
My install was not neat, I want to revise it, but everything still got under the shell (just).
As for charging, I have bought the components for a simple charger and I plan to build a standalone specifically for the 2.4v car. The circuit for the charger can be found at :
http://www.dprg.org/nicad_charger.html
The charger is important for ensuring the car runs for as long as possible and retains full voltage throughout the cycle.
-Shonk.
XERO, I think they meant G-23 because that’s the model of the body set. Also, i think the body set comes with all 3 skylines including the R-33. I think there’s a R-32, R-33, and some old school skyline. I think that’s what i see in the pictures…
Xanavi Hiroto Skyline 57mhz – YES cripple cap
Castrol Nismo Skyline 35mhz – YES cripple cap
oops, I thought that you worked for the site.
cool car though…..:)
THe only pic I’ve been able to find is the resale promo pic, and according to hlj its not going to be limited:
http://prochar-g.eastrain.com/catalog/Tomy/G-23.jpg
-dan
smart car is simply forwards / back motor reverse
i control my 27 smart cars with the bit remote as it is after rewiring the rx pinout… so its not coding… I have a hunch the crystals are different? somehow.. but im not sure…
-dan
FrankenBitG – well the gears are mixed…..dunno the terminology but the main gear is a green ‘un (8.25:1) and theaxlehas the orange 9.86:1 gear on.
Prabbit…nice pic of that mad CRX!
how u guys get ur bits to work? I’ve done the two battery mod, but my car only runs about 5 seconds on full throttle then it just get slower and slower. Please help me!
I’ll have to look at that tonight if I get a chance. I did notice that the clear cover that the car sits inside of is different. I’m pretty sure the iRacer is not 2cm shorter than a Bit though.
Just because the frequency is right, doesn’t mean the control coding is right. For example,consider the4-band controller, a 35 MHz “normal” Bit, and a 35 MHz Booster Bit. The 4-band controller has three settings on it. One of the settings will control the normal Bit, but not the booster and two of the settings will control the Booster, but not the normal Bit.
I’m not sure if that’s the cause of what you’re seeing, but it is a possibilty. I know there is some control reversal between Bullets and Bits, but don’t know about the Smart-Cars.
Hi TrackMaster.
The controllers that come with the Treasure’s will not be identical to the iRacer ones – therefore they will be modified to support the extra length of the Char-G car. I don’t own an iRacer but I’ve seen them close up and I wouldn’t say they were 2cm smaller then the Char-G though…but then I don’t have both to compare, I’m a Bit Char-G man

cool crash pic
we switched motors and my bit char-g freaked out but it was moveing faster then his. go figure
Ok Thanks all of you.
Nick
noid, you have a vair? What year? I sold my Cherry ’65 a few years ago. It was just about perfect. It was a monza but I put a Corsa 140 in it, custom slot mag wheels with wide rear tires, Corsa dash, all new interior, kick ass hidden stereo system. Wow, what an eye turner. I bought it for 1G, did body work, paint, engine (never leaked a drop), (interior was good already) and solt it for 5G. Sure was a head-turner. Everyone always said “I used to have a corvair, I should never have sold it”
YEAH so stop freakin takin the mickey out of me for saying perth is in the uk because is is so swivel on that one
Coolsurfer, you can use telephone wire if you want to. I used solid telephone wire for the terminals on my battery because they were ridged and I could bend them just right so I can snap my battery in and out. If you don’t want to solder you could used tape but I would recommend using stranded phone wire as it’s more flexable and won’t break after bending if a bunch of times. Any wire will work, really. The current is so low and we’re not really worried about frequency gain like on the antenna so you don’t have to worry about what wire is used for the dual cell mod. Anything will work.
Good luck. Show us what you come up with!
nice V-8 rear wheel drive mounted motor on a transvers mounted front wheeldriveV-6 Car!
Here’s a pic of that car in REAL LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only it’s a CRX instead of an accord, but still a honda.
ship to the US? i dont sell these car, i just build it for myself 😀
i just did the 3 battery mod man that thing flys what gear are you using anyways kenny??
one more piccie…

Did anybody notice the way the front wheel well cuts in a 90 degree angle, and not in a half circle like it should be? What’s up with that? The car looks really cool but that wheel well looks really wrong.
Rocker panels are high also
nice car dlx. Since weight isn’t a problem, toss some BBS alloy wheels on that bad boy and really deck it out.
Do you ship to the US?
I also bought a few cars from TTOYSINC. They run great and cheap prices, but the S/H is more than the actual car. The car is $7.99 and the S/H is $9.00
Still not bad over all, great cars for the $$$, plus he has a new BMW MX body style that I wanna buy. The weird thing is that I can’t find em anywhere else on any site.
Did you also buy yours on ebay?
silla
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