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  • in reply to: How to use aluminum wheel sets? #14786
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    • Posts: 5952

    Yeah the look great but don’t seems to fit too well, they are even wider than the originals.

    As they write on there site it needs some “adjustments”, didn’t the wheels come with an axel??

    in reply to: Bit Char-G vs. Bit Racer #14785
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    The Bit Racer is one of the predecessors of the Bit Char-G and is a non-remote controlled car that rides around in a track and uses guide wheels for steering. Toyeast has several in the accesories category, but they really sell them as spare parts (sold as rechargeable battery and tire sets).

    in reply to: Bit Char-G doesnt run #14784
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    that seems to be the answer. i have a couple motors and i put a different one in and it worked so thanx.

    thanx

    matt

    in reply to: question on range… #14783
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    yeah my friend suggested that I stick 4 x AA batteries on the controller with a potentiometer across the added 2 batteries to tweak the voltage input to see if the range can be hiked up. As it is, my OEM controller has a much bigger range as standard than the 4 channel booster controller….gutted that is the case, but I’m using it mush more because of it.

    But I will try getting a long extending antenna first to see if that improves things.

    in reply to: 4 channel booster controller #14782
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    • Posts: 5952

    I have 5 different non-Tomy variants now, and they all use different Rx boards, but all can be rewired to accept signals from normal Tomy Tx. I’d personally stay away from modifying the oem controllers to send the correct signals If you’re going to use Tomy controllers primarily- the process involves mounting subminiature pressre switches where the buttons normally contact and bypassing the existing contacts. If you have the patience, a better solution would be to cut the traces and either rewire or use a trace pen to reverse the wiring.

    As it is, I find both the 4-band and the stock tomy Tx are better than most OEM’s.

    -dan

    in reply to: How to use aluminum wheel sets? #14780
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    • Posts: 5952

    those wheels look nice

    in reply to: TOYEAST? #14779
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    • Posts: 5952

    That’s right,

    http://www.junkyspot.com and http://www.jdmtoys.com have the best pricing I’ve seen for the U.S. market. After shipping cost for junkyspot and free shipping at JDM Toys, the prices are about the same. Anyways, bot sites got lots of stuff to offer. Just thought you would like to know.

    in reply to: Bits vs. I-Racers #14778
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    • Posts: 5952

    Why are they *much* better… Let’s see!

    The iracer has control ‘lag’. Any QuakeIII player out there will know what I mean if they use a moden and try to use a railgun (*grin*). What this means is it takes a fraction of a second between you operating the stearing on the control until it actually starts turning. Makes you have to ‘preempt’ the turns. Believe me, with the iracer, you have enough to worry about.

    When turning with an iracer, due to the nature of the turning system, you turn slower than you go straight (This is because turning only makes one motor work, where going straight uses two and thus twice the power.

    iracer’s are also *VERY* susceptiple to wheel slip. Imagine: if one wheel hits a section that has less grip than the other wheel when going straight, the car turns. It’s just too hard to keep them straight with a surface other that DEAD level and completely dust free.

    Enough reasons? I hope so

    The Track. Thanks for all the comments! I’m rather proud of it. I have track areas whose turning circle is different from the actual cars and as they are ‘digital’ turning (ie dead straight or FULL turn and nothing in-between) some of my turns cannot be done without VERY accurate turning or barrier rubbing. This means that in times, the car will rub the sides of the track, just make sure your barriers are capable of allowing the car to still move (Even if it is with less speed). It helps keep the flow of the race 🙂 As you get used to the turns, you can get around it without ‘touching the sides’ (Reminds me of a girl I once knew…) or just a bit to help you get around the tricky bits. I have very narrow points in my track (some parts go as thin as 4″) so it’s definately for racing pros and not amatures.

    Just make sure your track is appropriate to the people racing on it. Narrow for the pros, wide for the kiddies and keep the armco (Barriers) VERTICAL unless you want the cars to roll over (You MAY want this!).

    One last thing. Make the track have multiple routes! Barricade of sections and your track will have more possabilities. It means you can reuse it and reconfigure it (It’ll make it’s interest much longer if you do).

    Shal I put your name down for a race day if I ever do one? Sweden is a LONG way to come (to London). LOL

    Did I explain everything?

    Wejjy.
    PS: Dying to see your Track! Please put it up on Admiral’s Lair too if you can or email me it on djini_hades@hotmail.com (That goes for anyone who has track pics!!!!)

    in reply to: Bit CHarge G…. Beware !!!! #14777
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    • Posts: 5952

    Jaydeman, you are right, they do got a wider selection then you do, and your prices do seem to advertised lower. But do you offer free shipping as well. I figure once you add the shipping, you guys are probably roughly the same price. I enjoy both yer sites, and both have lots to offer those of us here in the U.S. that want more Bit Char-G’s. Thanks to people like you and http://www.jdmtoys.com, we can enjoy the fun.

    in reply to: Bits vs. I-Racers #14776
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    • Posts: 5952

    after trying a few OEMs as well as regular and booster bits, i would say that you should definitely go for the real deal.

    all of the oem cars i have bought have poor steering, and lots of fiddling has only improved things marginally.

    my oem cars are now destined for mod-experiments, and parts supply!!!

    in reply to: Steering switches #14774
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    • Posts: 5952

    The remote control does not use a strictly tuned circuitry: you can replace almost any crystal with a different one without noticeable difference in range. That is, you can replace the 27MHz with a 49MHz crystal and everything will work perfectly.

    in reply to: Hot wheels #14773
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    • Posts: 5952

    Does anyone have a link to hot wheel’s site or walmart, or whoever else should have pics/info n these lisenced cars, Hot Wheels USA claims to have no product of that sort wheneverI call their customer support lines, and both US and Australian posts reference them.

    Thanks,

    -Dan

    in reply to: OT: I?ve been a li?l quiet of late [pix] #14771
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    • Posts: 5952

    Love the stickers on the WRX…”Shifters” and “Headers”. How non-descript :smiley8:

    in reply to: Bits vs. I-Racers #14770
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    I agree with wejjy. I have Bits and one iRacer. I like my Bits soooo much better. They are far easier to control even at high speeds (I have a booster and 3.8 motors) Over/understeer can also be controlled with tires selection on the Bits.The control of the iRacer is poor at high speeds. I can only turn it tight with almost no speed on it. Then there’s the issue of control lag.

    I’m going to keep my iRacer anyway…I only got it because it’s the WRC Impreza.

    in reply to: Working Pitlanes #14769
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    • Posts: 5952

    I don’t know about all the pits action…

    But that track is AWSOME! Truely a sweet rally course. I love that you made it all snowy! And a bridge!!!!! Does the car actually make it up the inclines? Even when the battery is getting low?

    How many laps can you make on a charge?

    -Floyd

    in reply to: Working Pitlanes #14768
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    Good ideas. The g’ate may be a ‘must have’ but the car jack?!?!?! I don’t think I have the energy 🙂

    The other thing with the car jack is some racers may want a long charge, and others want a splash & dash (It’s a pit-strategy-thing) 🙂

    Thanks for the ideas.

    in reply to: Bits vs. I-Racers #14767
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    I also spent a great deal of time building a track.

    I also bought Iracers first.

    I also was extreemly frustrated.

    I bought char-g cars and they are *MUCH* better.

    Throw/sell those iracer’s away. Get a Char-g (Tomy/Tomica).

    With a track build; Make it wide (Ppl say 8″ but try to keep it no less that 4″ if you can). Also, as you have a great surface, make sure the ‘walls’ of the track can be ‘rubbed’ by the car and it can still travel (Scalextric Armco would do this, but even card in strips is good). This will allow ‘less skilled’ racers still continue even though they are bouncing around and be able to keep going round tricky turns.

    Have a look at the track I done:

    http://groups.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/bitcharggallery.msnw?Page=12

    http://groups.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/bitcharggallery.msnw?Page=13

    (It’s the ‘swiss alps/moutain rally looking one with the river)

    in reply to: question on range… #14765
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    I wouldn’t mind trying to boost the trasmission power rather than working on the reception. Maybe someone could look how wind up the wick on the pissy transmitter.

    Tai

    in reply to: Aussie Racing ??? #14764
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    Oh, yeah

    ALOHA from Australia

    (it’s winter here and i’m freezing my arse off)

    Tai

    in reply to: Aussie Racing ??? #14763
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    In Australia they are called ‘compact char-g’ and so far they have only released2 cars so far (Honda S2000 and Skyline) on 2 frequencies. 27 and 45Mhz. Hopefully they will get they’re act together and get more cas and frequencies soon………..

    Tai

    in reply to: How to make an Internal Antenna for ur Z #14762
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    wd 🙂

    in reply to: Steering switches #14761
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    • Posts: 5952

    Nope the 4 channel controller ONLY does 27, 35, 45 and 57Mhz – ie the Japanese market frequencies.

    in reply to: Superchar-g Dual Batteries/Movies #14760
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    • Posts: 5952

    OMG!!!

    that was scary to watch!!!

    damn it went fast

    in reply to: Steering switches #14759
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    • Posts: 5952

    Does the 4 channel controller do both 40mhz and 45mhzchar-g?

    in reply to: Steering switches #14758
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    • Posts: 5952

    I might just buy a new controller then . 🙂

Viewing 25 posts - 3,301 through 3,325 (of 4,827 total)