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Yeah I tried my friends Tomy Bit and it is as it should be its just the OEM Bits that have the F and B reversed. If I were to swap F and B over on the board of my OEM Bits, does that mean that on the OEM controllers, forward and back would be swapped too?
Compact Char-g as available from shops is basically an English language package and instructions, 2.2 motor powered car witha choice of two frequencies (27 + 40MHz).
Bit Char-G is Japanese/Asian market cars, there’s more car choice, more frequencies available (35 + 57 + 45 + 27MHz) and 3 different motor combinations available.
Parts will interchange between the two cars as they and mechnically indentical. So you can buy a Compact Char-G from K-Mart for example and then use hot-up parts from ausmicro.com to get better performance!
don’t happen to work for Telstra do you Derek?
It’s just we have the same phones here @ work too 😉
btw nice car collection :smiley1:
The controller appears to be the same as the Bullet GP’s, meaning it used 3 AA batteries, but will they have the same gears as the OEM Bullets? I find the OEM Bullets are poor in comparison to the other clones with regards to acceleration and speed.
Iam having trouble finding a U.S. site for the 3.6V NIMHbattery, the closest I have found is this one:
Would that battery work? It is 3.6V 60mah NICD. Does anyone know of a radio shack part number for the 3.6v NIMH one pictured above in the thread? or where i can get it in the U.S.? Also how much does it cost to ship something to the U.S. from Jaycar and how long does it take?
Thanx
Rob
Cool track…but where are the pits going to be?
Anyway, the working pit idea is pretty good. I thought Ifound a potential problem…I was wrong :smiley9:. But here’s a possible upgrade idea. Maybe have a “gate” to stop the car in the proper position (similar to the signs used in real pits to tell the driver when to stop). Once the car is stopped and charging,the gatecan then drop down or lift up to allow the car to go when it’s done charging. Anotheridea I had was to have the charging base lift up under the car. That way it would look like the car is being jacked up (like real cars changing tires). You also wouldn’t need to have the contacts spring loaded with that design.
For some reason, they switch the controls in the OEM cars. If you REALLY want to use the OEM cars with the 4-band controller, you need to swap two wires on the board in the car. I don’t know if they are labeled the same as the real Bits, but if they are, you want to swap the ones labeled “F” and “B”. If they are different, then just don’t swap the red, black, or two hair-like wires. The other two will be the forward/reverse control wires.
Of course, I’d just use the controller that came with the car since you get better range with it anyway.
thanks for replying….Ive messed around with it, and its kinda a bit better…it was quite jerky and each jerk would be a little jolt to the right, could see the wheels doing it..
I cut thin slithers of vinyl (like electrical tape) and wrapped it around the wheels which reduced traction so the car will do burnouts…so was having fun doing this….and the problem of going in circles was kinda forgotten about since that was primarily what I was doing with the car. And now the problem doesnt seem as bad as before. Although driving over a ramp is extremely hard as it of course still pulls right, just not as bad as before.
The front wheels seem to have a lot of movement in them, and the beam that goes between the front wheels doesnt seem to be quite accurate enough to give tru staight line steering… and as the pic in first post shows, 1 wheel is always pointing right more than the other,Maybe theyre all like it, but Im having heaps of fun with it..gonna do the dual battery mod soon hopefully and maybe make some tyresmoke.
All in all, very happy with the car….controller works from whole different room in the house!! Not that its much good as I cant see the car..haha…speed is pretty good…burnouts are good….and thats very important to me…(check my website…)
I hope we’re talking about the same car the bit char-g. It has 4 frequencies: 27, 35, 45, 57 and possibly 49 mhz. Talking about racing, I’m waiting for bit char-g racing here in hawaii.
Boy, that doesn’t look good. Do the wheels turn when you turn left or right on the remote?
The only thing I can think of is the steering arm. It’s attached to the white wheel knuckle on a pin thats behind the wheel. Maybe it slipped off??? If everything looks good I’d say you got a defect.
That would be the first time I’ve heard of that problem
Razor scooter modified with 2 Fordair conditioner fan motors, a 12V 7Ah lead acid battery and a PWM 80Amp variable speed control. This thing does about 20mph on those tiny wheels (faster then any kid could everkick push one)and the variable speed allows the young ones to be able to ride as slow as they want. I’ll take a pic this weekend.
I too, dreamed of many toys as a kid and my parents always told me “you’d only play with it for a couple days and then never play with it again” Well, here I am Mom and Dad …I’ve gotuseless toys out the ying yang and Im happy as ever.
i noticed the same thing… still havent found a way to boost the range of the booster! however, maybe i should not be complaining – i am getting a range of 8-10ft.
i find my 57mhz rx7 gets about 8 metres, which is not bad.
i also have 35mhzand 45mhz boosters, and they both only reach 3-4m!!!
gave them all nice long new cat5 antennas, and it didnt make any noticeable difference. i also put a longer wind-up wire on the booster controller, but that did not change things either.
the next step is to find a telescopic antenna that will fit nicely in the controller! (been looking but have not found anything yet)
Sorry, the URL is:
http://groups.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/bitcharggallery.msnw
You can also see some pics of my nearly completed track.
Theoretically:smiley1:
As long as the transmission power is the same (the transmitter may have a higher output at lower freq)
Hi Jake!
I’m not aware of an official distributor in Australia for Takara Toys (http://www.takaratoys.co.jp), the manufacturers of Digi-Q.
If you have any luck, make sure you let us know.
Cheers
Derek
So as a rule of thumb, the higher the frequency, the better the range?
Chewy,
Derek and I could arrange our wholesaler to drop ship direct to the UK if you can find some people to join in on the order.
Aaron
dont know that u can…. char-gs are better anyhow 😉
frequency is the answer… A 45 Mhz signal is nearly half the size of the 27 Mhz signal so the grossly undersized and terribly inefficient antenna on the 45 Mhz car does a little bit better job of grabbing the signal. To put it in perspective…. a 27 Mhzwavelength is about 32 feet peak to peak. To get a good signal you want a full wave,3/4, 1/2, or 1/4 of the total wavelength. The old 8cm antenna on the the car is doing the best it can do. it should really be at least 8 feet long.
Hope this helps
Tai
72…….. gawd, wheres that pounds sign!!!!
that sounds damn cheap (whats the conversion)… if I had known i could get one that cheap i would have got one instead of my char-g :p
LOL!!!
funny stuff!
V=IR rarely applies in these types of situations fora fewreasons :
The entire circuit may be voltage regulated.
The motor current actually varies with rpm and load.
The motor drive electronics will introduce some voltage drop and the output stage could be limiting current to the motor under these conditions that it is not designed for.
Not to mention that the battery itself probably isnt being charged properly and we cant guarantee that it represents its full capacity or even voltage.
But who cares really…. its fast and it runs for 5 mins ! So its cool.
Will upload a higher quality copy this weekend when I get home.
:smiley4:
Derek
Quest for Madness: http://www.questformadness.com/has a mod (#10) that involves the attachment of a telescopic antenna. He claims,
“This modification gave me a modest 3′ boost in stutter-free range (6′ if you hold the controller over your head). The difference is evident when I switch back and forth between antennas. However, my telescopic antenna is only 17.5 inches long when fully extended, which isn’t much longer than the stock wire one. Im sure a longer one will achieve better results *snickering*. However, in combination with the UCripple Capacitor Mod No.6/U and the UCar Antenna Upgrade Mod No. 5/U, I have been able to achieve a total gain of 18′ of additional range on my Xanavi SE, whose original range was a paltry 5′ radius.”
lots of other cool mods as well. enjoy. :smiley1:
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