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Dave
The other site that is SUPERB (IMHO) is the “Martini Racing” site. It is also run by enthusiasts, only prob is the annoying pop up ads…but they are quick to kill with ALT-F4 :smiley2:
Fellow member, ZeroBXU runs a site called The Admiral’s Lair (an MSN Community). It has a daily archive-type forum which makes for good reading, too!
Unfortunately, I’m at work at the moment and don’t have access to my home bookmarks. Hopefully someone else will be able to post the URLs ASAP, otherwise I will post when I get home tonight.
Regards
Derek
OK Guys!
I’ve been asking the author of the forums about it and it comes out that it’s not an uncommon problem. It’s to do with the way the Cookie is being written and read off your PC and back against the server clock.
We think we’ve got it fixed in the code but please let me know if it still happnes – you MAY have to reset your cookie.
Guess what I spy with my little eye :smiley2:
You may notice in the pictures posted by Derek what appears to be dates! Anyone know Japanese? Here’s the rundown:
- G-21_Honda-NSX-R-white – Doesn’t say :smiley6:
- G-22_Toyota-Supra-silver – July 18, 2002
- G-23_Skyline-Set-R2000-R32-R34 – August 29, 2002
- GM-09_Mitsubishi-WRC-EVO-VII – June 27, 2002
- GM-11_Toyota-Supra-Japanese-Cup – August 8, 2002
Thanks guys,
I reckon i’ll run it dry and use the hobby knife to clear the hair etc out.
Thanks again.
🙂
Hobby Link Japan claims the NSX-r is coming out sometime this month so i will definitely be looking out for that one. Dave
David
I see the other guys have dived in and answered most of your questions. I will rip apart one of the OEM cars on the weekend (flat out at the moment) and take some photos for you. Stay tuned :smiley15:
I can see the issue of spare parts becoming an increasingly-important issue. On a DAILY basis now, I’m getting one or two emails asking if I have “x” or “y” available. The unfortunate answer is “no”. It would require the butchering of one of my cars, as Tomy (as far as I know), do not sell replacement spare parts!
Hello, Tomy? Anyone over there listening to us? :smiley2:
Like a lot of people, my first car was a Mini (MANY eons ago) – a 1976 “L” Series with a massive998cc engineIf anyone wants to churn one of those out as a Char-G shell just let me know :smiley2: Money is waiting….
Wh00000o0o00o0o0o0o! Even look better than the concept drawings!
- G-21_Honda-NSX-R-white.jpg
- G-22_Toyota-Supra-silver.jpg
- G-23_Skyline-Set-R2000-R32-R34.jpg
- GM-09_Mitsubishi-WRC-EVO-VII.jpg
- GM-11_Toyota-Supra-Japanese-Cup.jpg
Looking forward to getting my hands on these! There goes my gadget budget for the next 12 months
Derek
> … Does anyone know if you can control a new booster car with a
> standard controller. I understand that you wouldn’t get 2 speed, control,
> but would you be able to do it? My 4 channel controller is a dog…
> 2 feet max range….No. :smiley6:The booster cars work on a differentcode and frequencybracket to the standard cars.
Just a note, too, on the subject title of this thread.The product you are referring to is a 4-*Band*, *3* Channel controller. Just wanted to clear that up :smiley2:
>Not much to set up. Of course, I used it with my standard car…Here’s
> all I did… Let me know if I’m missing something…set the frequency on
> the controller, and the a,b,c switch until I got control. Left and right
> steering is ok, but forward and backward are reversed. I understand
> that’s the way it works… Anyone have more they can contribute…The reverse throttle is a symptom of a different code set between the controller and the car. Generally this will happen with an OEM car being used with the 4Band controller. Can you confirm that your ‘standard’ car is indeed an OEM/ODM unit?
> A thought: Perhaps range is better with the new 4 freq controller and the
>Booster car than with the 4 freq controller and the standard car. I bought
> a booster, but didn’t open it yet… anyone confirm or deny?Doesn’t seem to be such a relationship from the cars/controllers I’ve seen. But you should be getting more than 2′ in any case….
Regards
Derek
And you should be getting a lot more than two feet out of the range, too. I don’t have the four-channel controller, so I can’t say how it’s set up, but someone out there with it should be able to provide comment on the proper way to set it up for use.
No, you can’t
You’ll notice by theitemnumbers that they are all body sets. I think that’s a good ideabecause now we don’t have to buy more and more cars to get the cool bodies. I wonder if you get a clear shell with these as well.
There is no such thing as a light “oiling” with these cars… :smiley4:
The best approach, @ this stage, appears to get a tube of Ceramic Grease, apply reasonable amounts, play in/on a VERY clean enviroment for a charge, or two, then dissassemble the car and wipe all the grease, that is visible, away…
This will leave a tiny smear of the grease on the parts, and is MOREthan enough to keep the vehicle operating smoothly… For a while…
:smiley8:
Quote:Originally posted by Derek on 08?May?2002On the other hand, an OEM car and genuine Char-G of the same frequency can live happily together. Thus a 4 x Char-G and 4 x OEM race would be possible.
Cheers
Derek
Ummm… Soooorrrreeee, your wrong there….
You know those two I OEM cars I recently purchased? One is 27Mhz and the other 45, well they wont work as you state!…
My mate’s 27MHz and my 45Mhz interfere with each other…
How?… You ask…
Well… It’s a funny thing… When operating the OEM car, whilst there was still a charge in the other (Special Ed), when you push the button to go forward, the other car goes backwards!!!
And vice versa…
Both sets of frequencies and both controllers affect the others in the same way… Except, oddly enough, for the steering… Both controllers send the same message…
Just had to set the record straight…
BTW, what happened with the site? I’m away for a few days and things are changed… Again…
Ciao…
:smiley8:
OMG Those are absolutely awsome.
I’ll take all 3 thank you.
You guys in Australia are soooo lucky…
I mean, just looking at the tourism commercials I’ve seen, you’ve got:
- Beautiful, scantily-dressed women everywhere.
- Crystal-clear ocean no more than 50 yards from wherever you’re standing.
- Rivers running with beer.
- A koala bear in every tree, and the Crocodile Hunter driving up and down the country roads.
[/list]
…and now you’ve got Bit Char-G–excuse me! I mean Compact Char-G. Well, that’s just freakin’ GREAT!
Oops. Almost forgot. Welcome aboard AUSMICRO and The Admiral’s Lair, Leon!
The Supra is pretty, but the Evo. VII WRC will be my next purchase!
Decal update… all that’s left (that I’m aware of right now) is the windshield SUBARU logo and the “SUBARU WORLD RALLY TEAM” that goes on the hood. Once I’ve got those, it’s time to start test-printing until I get the size right.
Right now, it looks like the final document will be in Microsoft Word for several reasons:
- It scales down the bitmaps without losing resolution.
- It will be a relatively small file.
- It’s a somewhat “universally accepted” file format.
[/list]
I’ll also leave the file so that it can be modified, in case any tweaking/resizing is required for your individual printers. So we’re still on-track for the end of this week!
I agree. I want to get the Castrol Supra and the WRC EVO.
Well being as that i am a student with no job, money is ALWAYS an issue. LoL, but i was wondering how much is 30 AUD converted to US dollars. Thanks a lot, Dave
Yeah the OEM is like a cheap and nasty car you give to kids, In Australia they can be sold by Derek and I for like $30 and still give a bit in for the running of the site. Pay more than that for one and you’re being ripped off!
Stick with the genuine cars aless money is real tight!
Aaron
I have one here if you want it sir 🙂
*drools*
Thanks for the useful info man. I appreciate it. Later
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