Admin

[Admin]

Well, I just got my two cars and my verdict is…decent for the money. However, one seems to be pretty good and the other seems to be a dud. The “good” one has really good range. I think it’s run time is alittle shorter than my bits. There are also two “flaws” that I found with the “good” one…one of the rear wheels is not quite centered on the axle causing it to bounce slightly as it drives. Also, the axle gear barely engages the middle gear.

Here’s what’s wrong with the dud. First, I clipped the car into the charger and it started charging, but finished after only a few seconds. It didn’t clip in very well, so I charged it again. Again, it only charged a few seconds. I tried running it and it went about a foot and died. Then I charged it again. This time the charge cycle seemed normal. Then the car worked…sort of. It only turns right! I determined that it is the controller’s problem since the LED doesn’t light when I hit the left turn button. I drove it around only turning right and this one is much slower and it also died pretty quickly. I’ll see what ToyEast can do for me since it is obviously defective.

Oh, and I’m about to swap the good parts from the bad car for the bad parts from the good car

[Admin]

Yup, that’s been found already in the battery thread. However, it is good info that could use being closer to the top of the threads.

Oh, and welcome to the board. WooHoo! I beat Derek to it

[Admin]

Thanks for the heads-up, wcarrothers! (And welcome to the ausmicro.com community)

Those weenie antennas are VERY promising indeed!

My only concern is the length of them. I know that each frequency will require a different length to allow the right spacing/number of coil turns to receive a full wavelength.

However, I have a sneaking suspicion that on a Char-G (which weighs two tenths of sweet FA) that it might make the car even more prone to rolling due to the higher centre of gravity.

But, I could just be paranoid, too 🙂 If anyone gets hold of one of these suckers and wants to do a quick review I’m sure the rest of the guys in here would be eager-readers!

Thanks

Derek

[Admin]

That sounds very promising. Thanks for letting me know.

[Admin]

posted images of my project car at the Admiral’s Lair

http://communities.msn.com/TheAdmiralsLair/

ryan

[Admin]

Just got this message back from them:

We are currently field testing antennas on both 27mhz and 35mhz. Due to the frequency, the size is different, the 27mhz is 5″ long and .25″ diameter, wt1.5g. The 35mhz antenna is 3.375″ long and .25″ diameter. Other frequencies are probably in the future.

Thanks,

Azarr

http://www.ecubedrc.com

[Admin]

Interesting…

But looks to be more of a novelty than anything else.

(I love the funny car look!)

Are the internals the same as regular Bit Char G’s?

(You say it’s shorter…where did they shorten it?) I bet that it effects it’s propensity to flip over on sharp turns, doesn’t it?

-Floyd

[Admin]

BiKESEAT/Ylexot – thanks, guys. I’ll consider myself duly WARNED with regards to rougue bits flying around in the 4Band controller!

Very handy to know these things before venturing inside the wonders of Chinese manufacturing

Derek

[Admin]

Concur with BiKESEAT. Also, may small non-glued/non-screwed parts to lose on the 4-channel. It took me a while to put it back together.

[Admin]

Oh sorry, the 27 and 57 MHz problems…

Some people have 57MHz cars that can be controlled with 27MHz controllers and some have reception problems with 27MHz. They all work, but I just think 35 and 45 are “safer” for a first car. Don’t want you getting all discouraged or disappointed if you have one of these problems.

[Admin]

REALLY! I gotta try that one. Time to buy more cars 🙂

[Admin]

Ah, but with the controller mod that we only know how to do on older remotes, the range on regular bits is much better.

I’d still go with the booster though…the range is good enough for me.

[Admin]

I got my Booster Car(35mhz) and controller yesturday. And I am not sure if it’s jsut mine that’s exibiting some quirkiness, but the “slow” speed is worse than a 1.0 motor…. it barely moves at all. (Tried bot ha 2.2 and a 3.0 motor) but with trubo down, runs just fine.

The controller is dead sexy. It puts me in the mind of the old Genesis and Snes type game pads. But man is the range terrible… it barely works 3ft past my feet.

Is it just me, or is anyone else noticing a large variance in quality control with these products?

I have had a bad motor(2.2) and varying performance between my cars… hmmm….

-Floyd

[Admin]

This is great! Gonna “MOD” my old controller this weekend.

??prays to the gods that there is a solution for the MultiBand controller?? Because mine has absolutely horrid range….

-Floyd

[Admin]

Mod Mad

This is one possibility I’ve JUST discovered…..

Imagine a shorter chassis, that would leave a full 3mm at the front before the inside of a standard shell. Best of all – it’s available NOW.

Yeah – I’m being a cryptic prick (hey – that rhymes!), and all will be reviewed in the product mini-review that I’m about to do.

Derek

[Admin]

LOL!

Derek

[Admin]

It’s true, he did ask for my permission.

[Admin]

Just had a look inside my 4 band controller – all the components are surface mount (ie damn small) and nothing sticks out like the photos you took Derek.

[Admin]

what?!?! problems do the booster cars in the 27 and 57 mhz band have exactly?

i was planning to buy a 57mhz band but now im not too sure now

man, i made my decisionand everything, and it takes me forever because im so friggin undecisive….thanks alot ylexot

[Admin]

We tried our selves to put the lights in the front gill/bonnet but there wasnt enough room. We will try and figure out a way of doing it though and yes we are planning different versions so your mates could have diferent colours etc. also different style of flashing will be available soon but if you can do a bit of soldering yourself then its entirely upto you what you want to do with it but remember these are SMC and ARE very fidlley

[Admin]

That is looking very good.

[Admin]

Thanks for the feedback, DimaY (and welcome, BTW!)

Will crack open a 4Band controller this weekend and see what magical mods can be found. Keep an eye on the forums for updates/pix!

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

Hey Robby – and welcome (I see you’re a first-time poster!)

The unfortunate answer here is NO. There is WAY too much cross-talk between cars within each band for an 8-car race. eg A 57MHz “A” car picks up unwanted signals from a “B” car, despite the signal differences.

If TOMY did some work on lowering the acceptable frequency tolerances to, say, 5% of nominal – then this situation could be turned around.

On the other hand, an OEM car and genuine Char-G of the same frequency can live happily together. Thus a 4 x Char-G and 4 x OEM race would be possible.

Cheers

Derek

[Admin]

OMG, GOD HAS CAME DOWN AND GRANTED ME A MIRACLE. I HAVE FOUND THE MISSING WIRE!!!!! IT WAS NICE AND HIDDEN UNDER THE LEFT SIDE CRACK UNDER MY MAGAZINE! YES THANK YOU GOD, YOU MUST PLAY WITH THE BIT CHARGS UP THERE ALSO AND KNOW HOW I FEEL. well thanks a lot for all your guys’ help and ideas. They didn’t go to waste because now we all know that we just have to find the original wire and that other things we listed dont work. later, Dave

[Admin]

Aaron – Same probs here – cache cleared, cookies deleted et al. Envelopes still all shown closed. Very bizarre!

Andrew – for whatever reason, it sounds like your Media Player is trying to stream-play the file. Also strange ! From the little movie thumbnail, try a right mouse button click SAVE AS and see how you go.

Cheers

Derek

[Author]

Posts