betty.k
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sooo, i’m a source of entertainment now am i?!:clown:
i’m glad to hear that someone else is enjoying my electronical misadventures! i hope other people are learning stuff out of this too. remember, it’s good to learn from your mistakes, but it’s far better to learn from someone else’s!:p:8ball:
good work! i want one too!:p:8ball:
hello there! hope you enjoy the hobby. have a read of these forums and you ll soon find out just how much you can customize and modify these little babies!:smiley2:
sometimes it can take a little while to get an answer to a question, because the person with the answer may not log on daily. but don’t worry, we’re all keen to add our 2 cents when we can!:8ball:yes, they will just go flat quicker than AA’s:8ball:
i don’t wanna know how much they cost! i might start crying if i found out!:sad::8ball:
ooh baby!! i want one o’ dem! of course i’m not prepared to pay for it though!:D:8ball:
fet modding gives all available voltage to the motor. the original transistors have a bit of resistance and therefore allow slightly less voltage through. so doubling the batt’s (and therefore doubling the voltage) makes the motor spin twice as fast. adding mosfets on top of this allows every drop of voltage to go to the motor, making it spin even faster.
i’m not sure on exact figures for this mod, micro amps is the king of the mosfet! look through these forums for any of his posts, and at the bottom of his posts there’s a link to his fet mod website:)
oh and welcome to the hobby and forums! i’m pretty new to all this myself. but just read through these forums, and visit some links and ask lots of questions and you’ll find it’s pretty easy to learn all you need and more. good luck!:8ball:just use some bewdy bonzer aussie foil!! (i’m sure canadian foil will be fine!) just fold up a little bit to the shape you want and tape it in place. the little nicads in your bit are1.2V. in a dual cell, wired in series (end to end) you’ve got 2.4V. the controller puts out 3V. i’ve found that when charging nicads or nimhs you need roughly twice as much voltage to charge effectively.
so with a single 1.2V cell, you charge with your 3V controller.
in a 2.4V dual cell you should charge around 4.8V.
i’ve found you can be fuzzy with the figures, near enough seems to be good enough.
most people use custom chargers with 3 x 1.5V AA batteries giving a total of 4.5V, and this seems to be fine. a custom charger could just be 3 batt’s stuck together with foil and tape with wires hanging out, so don’t worry about having to spend a lot of money building one:8ball:OW!! just found out the hard way! my recent experiences have taught me to monitor the temperature of test components (with the back of my finger!).that 100k resistor sure got hot!blackeye: i’ll ge the right ones and try again:8ball:
nup. i’ve stared at that pic till it did my head in! but i understand what you’re saying, the diodes just act as one way valves and direct power to one vr or the other depending on the direction of the flow. it’s a good trick to know, but i don’t need to do it in this case. when there’s a slower motor it’s the same forward and reverse. i’ve found a couple of 100k trimpots in my junk pile and i’m about to stick ’em in. fingers crossed!:8ball:
Edited by – betty.k on 23 November 2003 21:34:47
good one, more useful stuff for my ever growing electronics 101 folder! but can you confirm this; popped into my local dse to buy a catalog and the guy told me they ve stopped making them. is this for good, or did he just mean for this year?:8ball:
bewdy, thanks plenty. i’ll be using one vr per motor, i like to keep it simple:smiley2:
as always a very helpfull answer, although i didn’t quite understand the diode diagram but that’s probably because i don’t really understand curcuit diagrams full stop! thanks again:8ball:ahh good, i was hoping you’d spot this post!
so does it matter which wire i attach the variable resistor to (in the case of using 1 vr per motor)?:8ball:it’s only one motor that’s a little slower both forward and reverse. i thought of adding variable resistors to both wires on the faster motor, but i’m not sure what happens to the power when it goes back into the pcb after the motor, and i’ve already cooked too many pcb’s in my ‘experiments’! if this works could someone give me a ballpark estimate on value?:8ball:
just pushing this topic to the front!:8ball:
i love it! i’ve often thought of putting a toy mouse skin on a bit, but our cats (4!) just go for them anyway. suffice it to say all my rc’s have teeth marks on the aerials!:8ball:
not that i didn’t know it before, but when you think about it’s amazing the amount of modding, tinkering and abuse these little cars can take and still run true!:8ball:
yep, that’s exactly what i meant. lemme know how it goes:8ball:
super max; i’ve never tried this but i’ve got an idea. put a little glue on the axle where the wheel will sit and hold it vertically till the glue dries. this should fatten the axle for a snug fit. then glue the wheel on. as i said i’ve never tried it before, but that’s what i would do if i was:8ball:
it’s an interesting feeling isn’t it?! like a cross between the pain of watching the baby you’ve laboured over die before you, and the childish pleasure of watching something blow up!!:D:8ball:
nice stuff!:smiley2: love the engine bay. did you make the engine facade or can you buy it somewhere?:8ball:
who cares how the pics were done! it made everyone look, didn’t it!? i reckon you could get a bit to smoke. put a little butter on a bench and put the back wheels on it. blue tack the front to the bench to stop it moving and let er rip! it might take a little while and smoke might come out of the motor first, but hey, that would be even cooler!:D
i’ve made a couple of my rc toys smoke………but not from the tires yet:8ball:Edited by – betty.k on 20 November 2003 21:07:56
grazie mille! i know what you mean jeff, a few months ago i bought a clone and thought “aren’t these little cars cool!” today i’m staring at 4 bit clones and 2 tanks and thinking “these little rc things are REALLY cool! ciao:8ball:
jeff03: make sure the weight you use is not attracted by magnets or it will affect your steering. use something like lead or copper:8ball:
if you’re tricky enough you could put a spring in it’s place and solder the wire to that:8ball:
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