BludyYank

[BludyYank]

@betty.k 225023 wrote:

“if you don’t like our weather, just wait 5 minutes”!

That’s a spot on description of California’s winter season. Been following the stories on those brushfires though, it’s been horrible. We get our share of forest fires to deal with here as well, so I can empathize.

[BludyYank]

Absolutely..

2006:gatlin:

[BludyYank]

1. XMods are considerably heavier than Mini-Z’s making the task of getting up to speed a little harder on the 130 cans. You would need to go with a higher torque motor to gain off the line punch.

2.XMod AWD has always had an inherent problem of turning crappier in one direction than another. I have stayed away from AWD in XMods.

3.Another inherent crappiness, the XMod TX. Changing radios involves nothing short of changing out the pcb as well. The common replacement I have seen used was an iWaver pcb.

4.No where I know of.

5.Yes, those are light plugs.

cheers

[BludyYank]

As far as I know, there is only one individual that produces what is called double and triple wind patterns in 130 sized motors. There is also drill vs. epoxy balancing, crossover vs. hemi winding, single vs. multiple winds, etc.
A single wind pattern is what you see on ALL current micro motors, where one single strand of wire is wound continuosly around the armature. In doubles and triples, two or three strands of a smaller gauge wire are wound simultaneously around the armature. This creates smoother power and a broader power band, as it creates a more dense magnetic field. As far as crossover and hemi winds, the difference isn’t something that necessarily would be very noticable in driving. If you were to take the armature out of a stock 130 and look at the comm you would see the wires cross each other going from the comm to the armature. Now if you were to look at a pattern wound armature (like the 21 turn at http://www.minizworkshop.com) you would notice that the wires come straight down from the comm to the armature. This essentially makes a 28 turn motor a 27 1/2 turn motor, as the final wind doesn’t create a full magnetic loop. The idea behind this is that it basically generates more top end speed. If you look at 10th scale racing motors, you would note that the stock motors all have crossover winds and that the vast majority of modified motors have a hemi wind.
(I must give full credit to a mate that goes by the name of Flashsp-2 for the above information, he makes custom handwound 130 armatures.)

[BludyYank]

klims wrote:

The equation

t = F r

where t=torque, F=force, r= radius

relates this force to a torque output, but what i have never understood is how does this all relates to rpm? i understand that as F increases, be it by increasing n or I or B, torque increases and rpm decreases but are these directly realated? are they proportional?

Relationship between torque and power

If a force is allowed to act through a distance, it is doing mechanical work. Similarly, if torque is allowed to act through a rotational distance, it is doing work. Power is the work per unit time. However, time and rotational distance are related by the angular speed where each revolution results in the circumference of the circle being travelled by the force that is generating the torque. This means that torque that is causing the angular speed to increase is doing work and the generated power may be calculated as:

Power=torque X angular speed

Mathematically, the equation may be rearranged to compute torque for a given power output. However in practice there is no direct way to measure power whereas torque and angular speed can be measured directly.

Consistent units must be used. For metric SI units power is watts, torque is newton-metres and angular speed is radians per second (not rpm and not even revolutions per second).

Conversion to other units

For different units of power, torque, or angular speed, a conversion factor must be inserted into the equation. For example, if the angular speed is measured in revolutions instead of radians, a conversion factor of 2π must be added because there are 2π radians in a revolution:

Power=torque X 2 pi X rotational speed, where rotational speed is in revolutions per unit time.

The rotational speed of a DC motor is proportional to the voltage applied to it, and the torque is proportional to the current. By varying the field current it is possible to alter the speed/torque ratio of the motor. Typically the field winding will be placed in series (series wound) with the armature winding to get a high torque low speed motor, in parallel (shunt wound) with the armature to get a high speed low torque motor, or to have a winding partly in parallel, and partly in series (compound wound) for a balance that gives steady speed over a range of loads. Further reductions in field current (less winds) gain higher speed but correspondingly lower torque, called “weak field” operation.

Hope that helps some.

[BludyYank]

1957 Buick Roadmaster

[BludyYank]

T-shirts for certain. Black, greys or blues. XXL

[BludyYank]

It was in fact ph2t who told me about that, and yes he stated the brushless motor. I should have clued in on that about the higher voltages. Thanks.
:beer:

[BludyYank]

I’d give it a go on that 2s2p just for grins. I am somewhat in a similar predicament with several li-poly packs originaly destined for Mini-Z/Xmod endeavors. I have but only one XMod ‘experiment’ that I will continue with and all the Mini-Z’s. I will maintain those packs for those projects.
The Inferno has got me excited the most though because it is a scale class that Hobby Shoppes hold sanctioned series races for that I can compete in. In lieue of that, I have to be mindfull of what modifications I do make to remain within class spec.

[BludyYank]

It was recently mentioned to me about running an 11.1V li-poly pack in a Mini-Inferno. Other hop-ups and/or upgrades to consider are some possibly obvious ones like sealed bearings, alloy gears, mounts and any part you might think would need the reinforcement.
I have an Inferno ST on the way as well. I am going to give it a go stock and assess what upgrades beyond what I mentioned present themselves.

[BludyYank]

If you made the question less specified you really are asking.. ‘Is doing something fun and interesting addictive?’
Unless you are a rotting stick mired in a bog or your just bloody crackers, hell yes it is.
What gives anything fun the stigma of ‘addiction’ is the money and time spent in relation to ‘how’ much you have or ‘should’ apply to it and ‘who’ exactly is complaining about the fact you are spending all that time and money on fun. Which is what Pandabear’s dissertation and others were eluding to.
For those who have that closely related source of ‘complainant’, their angst is usually due to the fact that they either don’t understand the fun of it, are not able to participate and have fun with it, and they’d rather you be shuffling along behind them through some shopping mall dress shoppe as they have their ‘fun’ scanning for so-called ‘bargains’.
Unless of course you’ve managed to score a significant other who shares a like passion for the same outlets of fun as you do.(Yank reveals his scorebook and points to the ‘Divorced’ notation).
But really, it’s all good, interesting, mind involving fun that happens to cost a bit more than most other fun.

[BludyYank]

You might also want to check that all connections/wires for the antenna are intact and that the crystal is also seated proper.

[BludyYank]

That looks a bloody treat mate. Hope you will have more nelly’s (and that one)available soon. I am about to hook mine up with a mfgr spec’d 78000rpm motor. I just might have some unintended pyrotechnics.

UPDATE: Well Uber-Nelly(Nelly Turbo Deluxe) did just fine. It was the 78k motor that up and disassembled itself mid-flight. Audley(motor mfgr), obviously doesn’t know how to best secure windings. So much for that speedchecker record run.

FOLLOWUP: Not to let the Uber-Nelly feel like it’s mettle hadn’t truly been tested, I hooked it up to it’s old nemesis the X-2LS.

The following result was using the Nelly Turbo Deluxe, X-2LS motor, Polyquest 600mAh 10C Li-Polys and 9T pinion on the MR-02 MM.

[BludyYank]

The plug on that fan is a 3-lead. The sockets on the Evo pcb are 4-prong. But that is not to say that you couldn’t fashion a 4-lead plug onto the fan. You would only need to determine which prongs on the board are the ones you need. Not certain of the voltage supplied at the sockets though. You would have to determine if the command logic light sets are at least 5V DC.

[BludyYank]

@greed4speed – pm sent

[BludyYank]

Do you use comm drops? Lubricating the comm can save it or at least make it last longer.

[BludyYank]

This vehicle is a RWD pure Drag Racing machine.

This set up has the X-1 and 9/23 gear. Has a fair bit of weight to it so it needs the torque.

I have all but given up making road course machines out of XMods because of their inherently crappy steering and handling. I have been able to improve them somewhat, but you just can’t make mini-z’s out them. But they are fun to customize.
:beer:

[BludyYank]

PX recommends not using the X-2LS (and LSPE) for long durations. Indicates it’s intent is for short, exhibition type blasts. Better suited for a drag racing venue.
Nonetheless, I had the set-up on a speedchecker and ran it full throttle 6 consecutive times for 3 minute intervals till the PolyQuest 600 mAh 2s pack dropped off. All components on the rig were ‘warm’ at best. With more modest motors like the X-1 or V-3 on road course venues (varying speeds), I get average runtimes of 40 minutes.
Here is a speedchecker pic of one of the runs(pardon the poor quality as it is difficult for me to hold the camera steady in one hand and the throttle in the other).

Yes, that does indeed say 83kph(51mph). Groundspeed will obviously see a good bit of that scrubbed off.

[BludyYank]

Here is a link to an electronics distributor that carries a 20mm 5V DC fan.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/CF-251/220100/5_VDC_20MM_COOLING_FAN_.html

The fan I have is similar in size, but different mfgr. This is a link with it’s specs. I have not been able to locate a distributor that still has them in stock though.
http://www.russellind.com/Conco/indek/fans/k/kd2010.htm

[BludyYank]

I run a X-2LS, not the LSPE, essentially the same motor minus the fancier metal windings but same number of turns. I have no problems using the Nelly and 7.4V 10C li-polys with it.

[BludyYank]

At what points are you ‘testing the legs’? Through the fet’s themselves or through a circuit to the leg? Could be that one of the contact pads has lifted from the board despite being properly soldered to the fet leg. I went through 2 Evo pcbs stacking and restacking because I was melting them off with the motor/li-po combo’s I was testing. Thought the boards were toast. Got an Evo Nelly and currently revived one of the boards. Seems the contact pads on the Evo pcbs are easily destroyed. I even had to scrape into one of the circuits to get a contact point.
As previously mentioned, if you can solder quickly and accurately, you can be successful with upgrading fet’s on the Evo. Otherwise, the best bet’s an external.

Just an aside: Not that I don’t have enough to deal with currently but I can’t wait for more Nellys to be back in stock, have a few other projects in need.

[BludyYank]

This is a quote from a motor test thread ph2t posted on a forum, it may exist on this site but it was easier for me to find it where I already knew it was.
“the mzw 28t motor is 0.9A no load @ 2.4V, the plasmatomic is 1.3-1.5A no load @ 2.4V “
Couldn’t find any statements regarding ‘load’ conditions.
If you are using 7.4V 10C(6Amp) Li-Poly’s though you should be fine, but I also suggest using a Nelly over fet stacking.

[BludyYank]

The Bloody Yank is going to chime in. I hope whatever changes you make to this site do not turn it into a kindergarten playground sandbox that most all other Xmod forums have become. I became a member here because I appreciate it for what it IS. Advertising on a grand scale will invite the undesirable (kind of like baking a fruit pie and leaving it on the table to cool with the screen door open).
It may be true that more activity is needed, but interest sometimes wanes when you run out of challenges or levels to exceed. My only suggestion would be to possibly have a competition of sorts that could inspire existing members to reactivate creativity and the casual guest browsers to join in. Something that has a bit of a technical aspect to it that could be measurable and verifiable. If I come up with anything like that myself I’ll be sure to mention it.

[BludyYank]

I have always preferred rwd drive if for no other reason than to be a traditionalist in sticking with configurations that match real scale racing venues. I also agree that if they were to incorporate MR-02 steering and running gear design into the Evolution XMod along with the quality it could actually be a competative road racer.

[BludyYank]

My apologies bringing up a month old thread, but I Drag Race a X-2LS with an EVO Nelly and PolyQuest 600mAh 10C Li-Polys and the Nelly handles it like a champ. I ran it flat out on a speed checker for 2 minute intervals repeatedly till the Li-Po cells dropped off and all the components were warm at best. The X-2LS is definitely not a road course/long run motor though. It is recommended for short blasts.

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