crazydave

[crazydave]

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listen to crazydave. hes the man when it comes to painting bits.

i dont know if they sell plastikote candy apple/metal flake clearcoat in the land of venomous ants and koalas or not. if they do thats the stuff. ive never had a paintjob scratch or chip with it and it is really really shiny.

Thanks Hog, nice to know someone’s got your back in the other hoods.:D

That Plasti-Cote stuff is the shiniest, blingiest, most blinding clear coat I’ve ever seen. I love that stuff, but I hate Plasti-Cote’s colors, so I’m back to useing the Duplicolor. Try to stick to the same brands, you know. 😉

Here’s my take on sanding polishing bits, the need for sanding polishing comes from the fact that the paint does not lay perfectly level, it is slighty bumpy. This is not something you’ll notice after a few coats. On guitars I’m laying 20 coats, so I level sand every 4-5 coats. I also finish sand with 400-2000 grits, 3M rubbing compound, then a fine Carnuba wax, like Meguiers. On bits I’m only laying 5-6 coats. So there’s hardly a need to level sand.

Here’s what I do instead. See, modern paints have self levelers built into them. What you do is lay 2-3 mist coats of your clear to protect the color. Then you lay a fairly heavy, but not too heavy top coat, that will melt the layers below it slightly, and level the whole thing out.

I always think it’s interesting that we can have such different experiences, but one thing that I’ve always noticed, and everything I’ve read, up until this point agreed with me, is that solid colors like black, are usually glossier, and don’t need a clear coat, and it’s the metallics that absolutely have to be clear coated, if anything so the metal particles don’t oxidize. That why some vintage white Fender guitars yellowed more than others, when Fender had to cut corners, those were the guitars that they skipped the nitro clear coat on.

What I think is funny about all this, is Dark Tari has followed some of my advice, and several peaple have accused/hinted that the shine on his car is Photoshopped. Well I’ll tell you, I take crappy pictures that don’t do my cars justice, and if you ever seen one in person, you’d know that the glare off of Dark Tari’s car is, in fact, the real deal.:p

[crazydave]

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Hey CrazyDave, this polishing that you do. Why do you do it? I’m not keen on body work. Most of the body work I do is just guesses.

I’m not the one that polishes my cars. If you re-read you’ll see I said, “I’ve never had a need to polish my cars. They’re like glass as it is. The polish just gets all gucked up in the cracks anyways.”

I was just responding to PandaBear’s statement that you’ll have to wait a week to sand/polish the automotive laquer.

You can sand the laquer with in an hour of application BTW. I also paint guitars, where I’m laying 16 to 20 coats, and level sanding every 4 coats.

[crazydave]

The Duplicolor I get here in the US is made by Krylon. I don’t know if there is any connection with Holts, but this stuff dries super thin, showing every detail.

It dries quicker, but it does take longer to cure. So you do have to wait a week to polish, but honestly, I’ve never had a need to polish my cars. They’re like glass as it is. The polish just gets all gucked up in the cracks anyways.

Edited by – crazydave on 10 December 2003 12:39:27

[crazydave]

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Yup, Tamiya is the best clear coat out of a can, but most people are happy with auto clear or worse, like bunnings clear (gulp!).

Hey, I don’t like the ‘or worse’ part of that.

I don’t consider using automotive laquers a compromise. In fact, if you wanted to debate it, I’d tell you that DupliColor laquers will kick Tamiya’s behind all up and down the block, then kick it in the face for good measure. It dries thinner, harder, smoother, more consistant, faster, glossier, more durable, etc., etc. than Tamiya paints. Part of the key is the EZ pressure nozzle which is the closest to a spray gun that I’ve used. The spray is soo much finer than on Tamiya’s nozzles.

If you want to tell me I’m wrong, I’ve got a couple dozen paint jobs I can post that say otherwise.

That’s not to knock Tamiya, it is probably the best hobby paint,but in all honesty automotive laquer is a step up in quality from hobby paints. I mean really consider the applications they’re intended for.

[crazydave]

I always reccomend that you stick with the same brand of top coat as your base coat. Just to avoid problems.

If your paint is coming out gummy, I suggest that you first try painting in a warmer enviroment, thinner coats, and more drying time between coats.

With that said, I prefer laquer, it dries thinner, and harder. It’s usually sold as automotive touch up paint. Most of that model stuff, and the stuff in the Hardware department is enamel.

[crazydave]

I haven’t even been able to get the site up for over 24 hours. I was wondering what was up.

Glad to see your back.

[crazydave]

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i use a sharpened toothpick for detail and try to let surface tension to work in my favour. i’ve masked successfully with blu tack, just the other way around. i covered the lights before spraying:8ball:

That’s some good advice right there. I use a similar technique. Small things like grill work, and tailights I paint and mask before I do my main color. Then I go and add the teeny tiny details like turn signals, door handles, emblems, etc., with a brush afterwards.

[crazydave]

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Well, it’s only 3rd place, and it’s not a road train, but I happen to have a clip of my car, if anybody wants to see 3rd place in action.

http://s2k-kidz.com/crazycars/14.MOV

3RD is #rd dude better then what I got 🙂 hehe.

Naw but really you wait till the next Biz trip to PHX then you in trouble, I gonna use your own weapon against you (the duel cell, fetted ZZ you sent) hehe.

Damn I gotta go back to work in les then a moth so expect some phone calls 🙂

Don’t get me wrong, I’m honored to have taken third.:smiley16:

I was just kinda down playing myself so I wouldn’t seem big headed posting a vid of my car when everyone actually asked to see a vid of first place. :smiley2:

I already had the video ready to go, so I posted it.

…and I’ll be over here waiting for ya, I’ve a got a couple dual cell FET modded ZZs myself, you know. :smiley2:
Be nice to beat some worthy competition for once. :p

[crazydave]

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The LED has a focal point still ’cause half of the lens is still there, the pattern it leaves when put up against a wall is a cool, almost astrological one (nebula?). I know where you’re comming from though. Yet again, trial and error is the only way sometimes…

That pattern is probably from sanding lines. (I’m guessing) See if you can polish the tip smooth again. That might help make it brighter. I not sure what you can polish plastic with. Maybe some 2000 grit sandpaper, then rubbing compound?

I can see why they’d be cool to keep too though. Real headlights kinda make a pattern like that.

…and yeah, that’s how I figure stuff out…by error.

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Bite me cookie monster . Yes man it is repairable, I’m tempted to respray that area again and start anew…..

Yeah, anything repairable. I should have said, it wonr be as easy to fix, instead of it can’t be fixed.

Instead of spraying, I’d reccomend spraying some paint into a cap. Enough so it’s flowing on the bottom, and just use a brush to touch up that area. Saves the risk of messing up what’s already fine.

Edited by – crazydave on 06 December 2003 15:56:22

[crazydave]

Hey you can see a lot more of what you’ve done over here. Nice work filling the back window, and I already told you I dig that color.

From what I’m seeing, I wanted comment on a couple things.

Here’s my experience with shaping LEDs, the sides have no effect, shaped them all you want, but the tip is like a magnifying glass, sand that back and you minimize the effect, sand it too far, and you’ll just get the dim glow of the emmiter thingy in there. It kind of a cool effect for bits, but doesn’t project itself down on to the road in that cool way.

My advice on painting tiny details, don’t mask, if you get a bleed, it’ll be as large as your detail, and since you have to wait for the paint to dry to pull the mask off, it’ll be too late to fix. I use permanent marker where possible, in areas where it wont rub off. To paint the fine details I got a detail brush from the craft store. It has a short handle that’s skinny by the brush end, then gets really fat on the other end. that gives me good control. Then to get just a tiny bit of paint on it, after I shake up my little jar of paint, I get the paint off the lid, where there’s just a little bit of paint. Then I just barely dab a teeny tiny bit on the end of the brush. Keep a rag soaked in mineral spirits near by. Then if you mess up, wipe it right off.

[crazydave]

Well here’s my take on the whole Xmod thing. I didn’t have time to read all six pages, so forgive me if I say anything that’s already been said.

Ok, I used to race 1/10th scale off road. I had a Losi XXT, that I had dumped almost 700 bucks into. Airtronics radio, Novak Cyclone, matched cells, graphite, purple anodized aluminum, and that whole bit. I also had a Traxxas Stampede that I dumped over 500 bucks into. A RC10 DS, that I set up with a 10 turn Reedy modified, a HPI 2-speed, and I swear I was breaking 50 mph with, and a Kyosho 2wd rally car, that really left a bad taste in my mouth. So my point being I have a little experience with hobby grade RCs.

The reason why I ditched all that stuff, and play with bits now, is because I have a kid now, so money’s a concern. When I bought the Xmod I wasn’t expecting a hobby grade car, not for 50 bucks, you can’t even get a decent radio for that much. So I was pleasantly surprised by it’s modular design, that reminded me of an old Tamiya car, kinda like the Manta Ray that led to the whole 4wd touring sedan revolution. Yeah it’s cramped in there, but it’s 1/28th scale, not 1/10. You can’t say it’s not hobby grade because of availibilty of parts, as RS is slowly making them available through their website. Some parts even being an improvement over the originals like metal rear axles, and because of it’s modular design, it will be easy for the aftermarket to jump on the bandwagon. I mean really think about it, it’s only been on the market 2 months, and companies are already gearing up, with the Mini-z motor builders producing motors specifically for the Xmod, Tiny RC getting ready to realease a couple bearing sets, P-N racing is getting ready to release some machined aluminum parts, and I’ve even heard talk of graphite pieces.

As for the crappy radio and it’s 15 steps, that’s fine for me, my brain works in 2 or three steps, fast, slow, brakes, and I’ve really been happy with the control. The controller does feel a bit flimsy. I am considering hooking it up with a Novak/Airtronics set up for electronics, but that’s way down the road. Too much money, but no more money that if you went the same route with the Mini-Z. For right now I just want to upgrade the FETs. You can swap them out for the same ones as they use to upgrade the FET in the Mini-Z, IRF7389, it’s been done, so we know that works.

So far I’ve spent 50 for the car, 25 for the charger, and batteries, and 15 for the stage 2 motors. That’s like 90 bucks, and it’s pretty fast with the stage 2 motors. I think with a slightly faster motor, bearings and FETs, it will be fun enough, and a fifth cell would just put it over the edge.

…and then there’s my main reason for wanting one of these, competition. Besides the racing series RS promised us in April, there’s been tons of people buying these. There’s bound to be someone for me to race.

So in summery of my long winded post, I’d say, no it’s not quite hobby grade, but it is very well designed, and a hella cool RC for 50 bucks, and for that price you get a complete package, with potential to take it as far as you want in the future.

[crazydave]

Well, it’s only 3rd place, and it’s not a road train, but I happen to have a clip of my car, if anybody wants to see 3rd place in action.

http://s2k-kidz.com/crazycars/14.MOV

[crazydave]

Wow, I can’t believe I placed. There was so many hot cars in there, I really didn’t know how this would turn out.

I’m honored that I was even able to place.

Congrats to the other winners, Trash, Ph2t. Great work from you guys as well.

…and thanks to ausmicro, Aaron, Ph2t, micro_amps, panic toys, and whoever else help put this together. (Dave f. with his backgrounds)

[crazydave]

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I got a Light Up Beetle. There’s not a heap of room to fit other bodies on cause the lights are pretty wide. But for the $ they’re good value. Pity about the revolting white controller :dead:

I like the controller.:p

I tried one of them Beetles, they’re pretty cool. I should get one.

The LEDs are tiny surface mount ones on a PCB glued into place. The PCB is in the way, but I’m thinking it could be trimmed back a bit for other bodies. Just be careful not to cut through the copper tracings.

[crazydave]

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i’ve made a couple of my rc toys smoke………but not from the tires yet:8ball:

I had one smoke, burn, and the transistor flew across the room, and went pa-tink against my wall. For such a dramatic death of a bit, I would have hoped for a more dramatic problem, but my steering had just shorted on my batteries.

Back on subject…Well duh, obviously the pics are photoshopped. Instead of trying to call him out on the obvious, Why not just say, “Nice work on the photoshopping.”?:smiley2:

[crazydave]

Well you actually pulled it off, good job.:)

Ok, so yeah, I was a sceptic, but you have to understand I’ve seen a bunch of kids over at TRC with big plans of dual motors and stuff, and you never see the outcome.

Cool that you actually went through with your plans. Gives me a great deal more respect for you.

I’d still be willing to race ya though.:D

[crazydave]

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Don’t use pullbacks they arent very grippy.

Are you for real? hehe

The pullbacks have very grippy tires aswell as they are wider then stock for more surface coverage

Thank you VDM. It always makes me question my sanity when someone says something that’s totally opposite of what I’ve experienced.

Pullbacks are the grippiest tire I’ve experienced, and the extra width also helps keeps the car from flipping.

I don’t care for all this business with these 200mah cells either. The stock tomy NiCds punch better, and get 20+ minute runtime when peaked charged.

I don’t get people’s hang up with the dual motors either. It will not add speed, it may double your power, but the mosfets will give you more power than you’ll ever need, and besides with the slight variences in these motor’s speed, your just gonna end up with one motor fighting another.

The difference FETs make in your steering is minimal, nothing to write home about, fer sure. You should look into some dual steering springs though. Those alloys are heavier, and your front wheels will not center up as well.

My ideal setup for extreme speed is a Zip Zap with internal dual Tomy cells, LXX booster board w/ stacked FETs, and a Bit Char-G motors pink endbell 3.8. 7.2:1 gearing. This gives me more speed than I ever need, and if you’re ever up here in my hood, I’d be more than happy to race you for pinks.:D

[crazydave]

I like shiny things.:D

The chrome is nice, but I hope Tomy takes the time to come up with some more wheel styles, and not just chrome what they got.

A realistic gold tone would be nice also. Instead of those nasty gold plastic rims.

[crazydave]

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Cavey,

That car is off Da Hook! 68 Mazda? never heard of it, looks extremely like an Alfa Romeo Spyder.
Is it a die cast?

Great Job! You definately have a style of your own Pimp.

Nah man, that’s just the body that came on the MAT car. Some japanese action hero I guess, I don’t know, I just know I reconized the car to be a ’68 Mazda Cosmo. The car that put Japan on the map, and introduced the world to the first mass produced Wankel engine. (guess we have to say rotary here.:smiley2:)

Here’s the real deal;

Edited by – crazydave on 31 October 2003 11:51:35

Edited by – crazydave on 31 October 2003 11:54:20

[crazydave]

Here’s a quickie. Just wanted to show off my new daily driver.

’68 Mazda Cosmo

-Bit Char-G MAT car
-Painted Pearl Red, and detailed to look like the classic sports car it is.
-FETed.
-Perfection 3.8
-Mounted wheels from a die-cast car, an widened them to fit the Bit tires.

[crazydave]

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I agree with you 100% crazydave, if it wasnt for the ‘run on’ mine might get a bit more use.
I like the shells though.
:)uA

I forgot to mention, I love the new shells. Cars like the Countach and 911 are some of my all time favorite cars, and the detail on the new bodies is top notch

[crazydave]

I would love the SBG, but that damn glitch where it just keeps going, grinds on my nerves to the point that I rarely use mine.

It would be nice to know FEts are an option, but I’m not too worried about it, because the SBGs acceleration is adequate for me, and ideal for my little track. I actually been half FETing a few cars to have a few cars on even ground with the SBG, and I think I make fatsre more consistant laps with those cars than a fully FETed car.

That’s not to say I don’t love my stacked FET dual cell Zip Zaps. I like to set my cars up for several different situation, and for racing on a tight technical track the SBG is perfect, except for that stupid, silly, annoying glitch.:angry:

[crazydave]

I think you guys have lost it over here. “Cooking with Bits” the TV show:shock:

I’m scared…

Hey how about some chopped nuts. they could simulate small rocks in the dirt, and add good flavor too. 😀

[crazydave]

I think you guys have lost it over here. “Cooking with Bits” the TV show:shock:

I m scared…

Hey how about some chopped nuts. they could simulate small rocks in the dirt, and add good flavor too. 😀

[crazydave]

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theres still another month to go…be patient

Oh yeah, I forgot about October.:blush:

Well heck, I might just get another car together.

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