Dangerous Dave

[Dangerous Dave]

the one with the plugs and separate swappable servo is the IW02M. It also comes with the rear roll shock suspension, supposedly better FETs and an FM radio.

The replacement one in the link is for the NanoRacer 2.0, same as the old IW02 car and almost an exact physical clone of the Kyosho MR02.

Needless to say, I have replacement FETs ready to stack as soon as the chassis arrives… courtesy of the Ausmicro shop 😉

[Dangerous Dave]

@klims 226217 wrote:

how much did you pay for it? do you know is they make chassis versions?

I just found these..

http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_73&products_id=525&zenid=fc9dc50d51f66a2e6192195c8c165012

Chassis only kits WITH electronics.

mine is in the post 😀

[Dangerous Dave]

I was in Clark Rubber coupla days ago, the 600×600 mats were $9.95 each.

There was also a pack of 6 with a checkerplate pattern on one side for $49.95.

I reckon the carpet track option is the go, Clark Rubber also has basic grade carpet 😉

Hell, I really wanna race on concrete, lotsa available car parks, but a bit too outdoors for bad weather 🙁

Edit: Kevsta, you’re a bastard for posting a link for an eleven page thread :p

[Dangerous Dave]

here’s what the I-Plus motor is capable of with stock FETs..

this is with a free running ball bearing chassis, 4 cells and 8T pinion on smooth ‘crete

toasty

[Dangerous Dave]

here’s my latest addition.

The fibreglass material came from a busted 1/12 T bar.

The end thickness is ideal, but I had to sculpt the centre section for the correct thickness and shape.

My aim was to retain a bit of up/down stiffness while having a fair bit of roll.
Hard to spot in the pic, the edges are much thinner than the centreline. I gave it a kinda pointed elipse cross sectional shape.

It makes the car much more predictable, with a more progressive oversteer.
The stock plastic H plate was also tweaked, this one is flat as 😀

Was fun to make, and very happy with the handling result.

[Dangerous Dave]

I haven’t, but a mate has, no problems as far as I know.

[Dangerous Dave]

easily done !

4 wires
+/- steering motor wires
2 pot wires

now we both know!

it’s not a separate servo like the IW02M

[Dangerous Dave]

unfortunately ausmicro shop doesn’t list them anymore, so I got mine elsewhere.

The entire RTR package (minus batteries) goes for only US$50 !!

I haven’t seen a chassis only version, but at this price you wouldn’t bother.

The Tx is fully digital and programmable with all the fruit.

No brakes on the car (even though the Tx has ABS function) but I just wound down the reverse EPA to act as a brake.

As for Firelap being better than Iwaver, as far as I know it is the same as the IW02. The IW02M is a different, more advanced/expensive car.
Same as the Kyosho MR02M??

[Dangerous Dave]

already modded it, lowered the body front n rear..

packed the gear diff with stiff grease for a bit more LSD action, running the largest 9t pinion.

bearings and an I-Plus motor to come :smiley16:

[Dangerous Dave]

come to Perth, was a beautiful w/end here 🙂

[Dangerous Dave]

micro mosquito is similar size and 3 channel I think. Doesn’t look much like a real heli though.

I’m sure someone here has one and can give more details.

[Dangerous Dave]

I was doing some learnin about FETs. seems alot of the rc popular ones eg IR7317 are dual n/p?

Matching the package type should be easy (SOT 8 or whatever).

[Dangerous Dave]

more of my own rambling to read.. maybe useful to someone in a similar situation.

got hold of the Atomic bb/Neo can, all good except the bearings are an extremely tight fit on the shaft. Tried polishing the shaft a bit, but still very hard to install. Glad to say it makes a big improvement though. Not hard considering the included motor comes BRAND NEW with a FLOGGED OUT endbell bushing. You can see the bush/shaft gap in the pic, about 0.5 to 1mm, and this is an unused motor :angry: The can bushing is fine, how the f%$K did they screw this up?

The pinion gears are total crap, one of ours was split from new, Dungball (RC Fart) wouldn’t even respond about a replacement. I got some new ones and split another one. Currently running a STEEL slot car pinion on the back. That’ll f%$k it .

Wiring is very fragile on these, have resoldered most wires, and ditched the on/off switch.

After alot of frustrations, this thing runs and actually goes ok. Here’s how I’d do it if I could..

1. Don’t buy a Mini X. If you want AWD for cheap, get an XMod.. or get a Firelap Nanoracer (2WD) with a really nice Tx for the SAME PRICE.

2. If you’re as stubborn as me and do buy a Mini X.. get the rolling chassis only. The XPress rx isn’t worth peeing on, the ESC is useable. Grab an Rx from some other radio set. Maybe use a PCB from some other Mini scale car with suitable Tx. To give you an idea, when driving in my kitchen I have to SIT on the floor next to my Mini X for it to be in range, don’t even think about getting range behind me either. When outside, away from possible interferences, I can drive it about 2m away. This was the case with BOTH cars we got.

3. YOU WILL NEED TO GET A BALL BEARING MOTOR CAN FROM NEW! As already stated, the original bushed can is useless out of the pack. At best you might get 2 runs, but they usually just smoke the commutator straight away. My car pulled enough current to melt the chassis at the battery terminals because of this. Thankfully the speedy survived. You will need an undamaged armature to install in the BB can.

4. Install full bearings throughout the chassis. Best upgrade in any rc, but especially important for the Mini X. RC Fart has a bearing kit listed in the Bearings section.

5. Buy a set of drift tyres. This is not necessary, but it’s about the most fun you’ll have with a Mini X, and probably the reason you wanted AWD in the first place. Unless you want to wind your own armatures, you won’t get any more speed out of these cars.

6. Buy a full pack (or 2) of replacement pinions, or find a suitable 8 tooth replacement.

7. See point #1. Unless you’re hell bent on making something work, are on a budget and have alot of patience.

My next challenge is to get the Firelap NanoRacer working well, after a Mini X it should feel like a dream 😀 .

[Dangerous Dave]

you da man betty

[Dangerous Dave]

too late haha and too much!
if I had that much surplus cash, I’d have a MR 010..
cheers anyway 🙂

considering I have persevered to get my MINI X running, the Firelap whatever should be a breeze!

[Dangerous Dave]

and while I’m at it, does the steering need boosting, or has that problem generally been fixed?

Will stacked FETs aid the weak steering, or make it worse??

[Dangerous Dave]

looks like AutoCad

[Dangerous Dave]

a T Rex 450 is a bit cheaper, and brushed motors are a waste of time in helis.

450 also uses smaller (CHEAPER) battery packs eg 3s instead of 4 or 6s…

radios/servos/gyros/electrics are where the $$ go.

Also you’d be stoopid not to get a flight sim for rc helis.

Align (makers of T Rex) spare parts are surprisingly cheap.
You’ll need them ahahahaha

Another option is to get a Walkera 36 or similar heli, but make sure you get a brushless/lipo setup included, and buy a set of Towerpro 9g servos. Also might want a separate Rx…
This option is much lower quality but similar design to a TRex 450. They do fly though.

[Dangerous Dave]

haven’t yet seen that one, but check THIS out too..

http://www.rotarypower3.com/nigelvids/Nigel_Brown_Trex600_shed.avi (25Mb)

this is a guy I went to Uni with here in Perth..

also a T Rex 600

[Dangerous Dave]

@klims 226146 wrote:

this new green one smells like sh!t and stings my nostrils lol.

then it’s fresh and good to go!

(and stop sniffing it :huh: ) haha

[Dangerous Dave]

any sort of fuel leak will cause erratic running :s

all metal in metal screws need to be checked often, threadlock does wonders to help.

Check your tank lid is sealing properly, the O ring seal can be expanded by tightening the small screw in the lid.

Check the fuel lines for leaks under pressure, and also check the pressure feed from the exhaust.

Try new fuel and/or a new glow plug. Old glow plugs can be the source of difficult problems.

All this was in my magnificent lost post lol

[Dangerous Dave]

well done for both your success and perseverence!

Main needle, high end, mixture needle etc are the same thing, it’s the main fuel control placed where the fuel line connects to the carb.

Low end, idle mix, transitional mix screw controls the air/fuel mix at idle and low rpm.

Some engines do have a 3rd adjustment (mid range) but it is often recommended to leave it alone.

Your idle stop screw is different again, it does not alter mixtures, it just adjusts your minimum carby opening.

Tune the main needle by running the car (with a warm engine) at full speed over a distance.

Then once that is set, tune the low end by idling the car for a few secs, then nail the throttle and observe the response.

Slow and gluggy means too rich, revving then cutting is too lean.

hope this post works lol

[Dangerous Dave]

Threadlock is your best friend 😉

keep the clutch pinion/spur mesh close (but not tight!), with this amount of power the gears push away from each other (well, technically all meshing gears do that)

[Dangerous Dave]

dammit I posted a good tuning procedure late last night, but obv something was amiss and it didn’t show up 🙁

[Dangerous Dave]

nah stuff the 959, I got the Celica Gr B (insert evil laugh here :p)

Never seen these 1/12 chassis before, kinda odd. With a rear mount 370 motor as well.. strange

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